Hello all. First post here. I have a project where I put a Cummins 12 Valve in an old RV. I am interested in monitoring engine vitals (engine temp, oil pressure, trans temp, boost). I was looking at OneGauge products, which is a flexible system that has a "hub" based on the Arduino 2258. They are using standard Autometer 2258 or 2259 sensors for coolant temps ranging from 100°F to 340°F. Those are analog sensors. I scoured the internet and can't find anyone that has attempted to use those with Arduino (exept OneGauge). I'd really like to create the digital dash myself because it seems fun and cheaper (I'm a tightwad). I have the sensor specification of the 2258 and, as expected, not linear....not by a long shot. What are some recommendations from you guys?
I expect you do not see many applications like that as it is very difficult to do properly. Automotive electrical is one of the most difficult to design electronics for as the electrical system is very dirty and has lots of nasty things possible.
I suggest you do some reading before investing a lot of time. Start with this application note by ST: AN2689 Protection of automotive electronics from electrical hazards, guidelines for design and component selection. There are others out there as well. This is from the Third page: • 12-16v+ power input, what happens with a 24V battery jump or if it is reversed? What did they do to protect for load dump? The application note will cover this and much more.
Many helpers raise warning flags for automotive electronics projects. Maybe the modern cars are that bad. My 1985 model Saab 90 got a home built single board Z80 based computer. One 7805 and some caps produced 5 volt. That computer got 10 years in the car without any trouble. The end was selling the car and removing the box. Opto detectors and 2 sliding proto boards reported the position of the manual gear sift via 1 - 1.5 meter long cables. Spikes from the low voltage side of the ignition coil were filered and reported engine speed.
During a few years a hobby class, plasric, flow meter and an op amp in the engine bay reported the fuel flow.
For industrial grade products lots of causion is needed in the design.
I say: Go for it and see what You can achieve!
Actually you have it backwards, the transient suppression etc is much better in the newer cars. Look at the Load Dump spec over the years. Most of the time it will work but not always. Most of the time if you blow a stop sign you will not get caught. You are doing a 1 up, my background is in the millions and over 30 years in automotive. It is best to be aware of the possibilities and remember all cars are different.
Once I designed a contact free position sensor for a car accelerator. It's lifetime was unbeatable. Volvo were impressed but the built in, some 100 kHz oscillator made them not using it.
During my 15 years in a world wide exporting forklift company the first prototype computer needed to be redesigned and improved. Verifying its compliance with machine rules the automotive rules were used during the verification of the device. Load dumps, reversed polarity, You name it, are well known terms, needed in commercial products.
Having both knowledge and experience in electronics "some" care was taken in the build. However, I don't consider hobby projects in cars, in general, as completely dead in the water.
Thanks for the input. If it's any consolation, there are no spark plugs or ignition system to create excessive noise. It's a totally mechanical diesel engine.
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