Hello! I hope that I post in the right section here.
I'm building an UV exposure box for PCB manufacturing. The equipment I have right now is: Four 9W UV compact fluoroscent lamp tubes (2-pin, 365nm). Two 10-18w ballasts (link in the bottom). I plan to use two lamps per ballast.
The problem is, that i can't find any working schematic or diagram showing how to connect the UV-lamps with the ballasts. I tried to connect as the ballast datasheet show, but the lamps won't light up. Worth mentioning, i did not use any capacitor as shown in the datasheet. Could that be the cause of the lamps not lighting up?
Could anybody please explain how to connect everything? I'm ripping my hair off due to this.
The capacitor is most likely for radio frequency noise reduction. Try connecting only one lamp at a time.
Fluorescent lamps either require a heated filament (which usually involves a starter) or an electronic ballast that provides high voltage for the ignition. I believe that a simple magnetic ballast requires a four pin lamp and a starter.
The ones that replace common bulbs contain an electronic ballast which generates sufficient voltage to fire the tube.
Earlier models were quite heavy as they included the ballast and the starter in the mount.
Some (single) tubes have four pins and the starter would be external.
However the two-pin ones which are the most common, include the starter in the large "peg" between the two pins!
marteen1337:
can i use this schematic for 2-pin lamp ? (without starter)
Pretty simple. Ballast in series with lamp, only two components.
In general, you probably can use the first circuit for two 9 W lamps and a 20 W ballast, particularly with 230 V mains. Generally, the ballast will specify with what lamps - one or two - (and with what voltage) it will work.
Yes, providing the ballast is functional, has not burnt out when the tube failed, and your tube is the same power rating as the original. May however not work with the starter in the two-pin CF.
Since the starter concealed inside the 2-pin CFL also includes a capacitor, the electronic ballast probably cannot work as it is generating a high frequency and the capacitor will be shorting it out!
Paul__B:
Will never work.
Foolish idea. Why would it?
i see parallel in internet !
Yes, providing the ballast is functional, has not burnt out when the tube failed, and your tube is the same power rating as the original. May however not work with the starter in the two-pin CF.
so i think this electronical ballast have a starter and its not ok with 2 pins lamp ! (these are have a 4 wires soldered to its PCB --- may i can use 2 wire instead of this !?)
Since the starter concealed inside the 2-pin CFL also includes a capacitor, the electronic ballast probably cannot work as it is generating a high frequency and the capacitor will be shorting it out!
even with 2-pin elec. ballast? how can we recognize these ballast have a starter ? how can remove the starter parts from PCB?
"I see Dead People!". Yeah, well that say it all! You see something on the 'Net.
marteen1337:
so i think this electronical ballast have a starter and its not OK with 2 pins lamp ! (these are have a 4 wires soldered to its PCB --- may i can use 2 wire instead of this !?)
If your recycled electronic ballast had four wires to the tube (I can't tell from the photo,) then you would need to connect to a four wire tube assembly. The starter in the two-pin tube is totally different.
marteen1337:
even with 2-pin elec. ballast? how can we recognize these ballast have a starter ? how can remove the starter parts from PCB?
Not sure what you are suggesting. The starter (little glass tube with contact assembly) for an inductive ballast is quite different to anything in an electronic ballast; the two are incompatible. While you could remove the base and ballast from a two-pun tube to access either two or four wires according to the electronic ballast, it is hardly worth the trouble.
Not sure what you are suggesting. The starter (little glass tube with contact assembly) for an inductive ballast is quite different to anything in an electronic ballast; the two are incompatible. While you could remove the base and ballast from a two-pun tube to access either two or four wires according to the electronic ballast, it is hardly worth the trouble.
no i mean remove the starter part in PCB (not tube) for acting a PCB like a ballast ! !
it may be solved by removing 400v cap. from pcb ? or not ...
i have this two different wattage pcb - but having 4-pin to tube !