As the Subject states, I would like to know...
What is the best way to permanently connect shields to an Arduino. Do I unsolder the header pins and solder permanent wires or is the push in jumper wires good enough? Project is for the greenhouse automation so a fair amount of humidity.
My clone board has 12 holes on the opposite side to where the USB connects.
the 4 closest to the analogue ins is 3,3V, 3.3V, GND, GND the next 4 is
SCL, SDA, 5V, GND the next 4 is
RX, TX, 5V, GND.
I know if you ask the right question GOOGLE will always have an answer, but what ever way I put my question I can not get an answer as to weather I can use these to power and connect to shields. Even when I prototype and do not use a breadboard I run out of 5V pins. Can I solder headers to these and use the 5V to power shields?
You may not be using the word "shield" correctly. A shield presses down on top of the Arduino like below, an afaik are meant to work like that in the long run:
I think you probably mean break out modules, which often ship with the headers loose, so you can make your own choice:
At the Arduino end, I think it's quite common to use a nano and solder to it, or if you use an Uno, you can use a screwshield:
You could also keep the pins on the break outs and solder them to the holes in protoboard or vero board. You could even solder a whole nano and all the break outs to proto/vero board.
Jip, you are correct I am referring to relay break out module, RTC and Temp/humidity sensor, SD to follow.
What about those other solderable holes on the Arduino Uno clone?
You said there are holes. You didn't say what you want to do with them.
Stack the shields with their normal headers. They can stay that way permanently. Don't use those headers for permanent off-board connections. Use the screwshield.
The additional holes are just convenient for certain devices such as Xbee wireless modules. They are only copies of the main headers. If you need two wires from 3.3V then put both of them into the one screw terminal.
So can I solder headers to these holes and use them as the normal header pins.
I always need more 5V pins and then has to use a breadboard just for that.