I personally really like Radio Shack 62/36/2 lead/tin/silver solder. It's got a very nice flux... wets parts effortlessly and makes almost no smoke and freezes nice and shiny.
I use Rothenberger 1mm SN60PB40 (60% tin 40% lead)... Because it was the only one 1mm, not lead free I found in the store, and I think it's a good solder, but being beginner, I have nothing to compare to
Lead free every time, lead is an insidious neurotoxin, can live without it (and there's
a legal requirement in the EU). The lead-free with silver is better behaved especially
if you rework a solder joint, but so long as your iron is at the right temperature all rosin-cored solders work well. Yes there is the issue of tin-whiskers, but I'm not
making things that have to work for decades unattended. For solder paste I use the
no-clean lead-free ChipQuick, works well even when well past its best.
Most people don't realise that ordinary soaps and detergents do not remove lead
from the skin after handling solder, special more agressive cleaning agents are
needed.
Having said all this the most dangerous form of lead is dust, since lead particles in
the lungs cannot be removed and burdens you for life.
I use Kester Sn63/Pb37 because it's what we use at work (we buy it by the case). It's what I'm used to working with, I'm good with it, and my boss gave me a great deal on the spool of solder ("Here, don't waste your money at Fryes on solder").
At work, we actually use many different solders. We do use a lead free when our customers pay us extra to use it. It's more expensive, and my boss isn't likely to let a spool fall out of the box for home use. I'm not a big fan of it anyways.
Ok, here's the deal with lead. As Mark T pointed out, lead dust is the most dangerous (which is why lead paint is such a huge deal). Properly handled, leaded solder is safe (and will definitely give you the best performance in your weld). Your biggest personal health risk from soldering is inhaling the fumes from the flux, and this is dangerous whether you are using ROHS Lead Free Solder or regular leaded solder. Always solder with adequate ventilation. I keep a small fan running blowing the fumes away from the work.
I'm sure the time will come where even here in the States leaded solder is outlawed. Most consumer electronics (your computer, your phone, etc) are already ROHS compliant because you don't want to build one product for the EU and one for the rest of the world. Until then, though, I'll keep using this spool of Kester 63/37 that will probably last me forever (in my home projects).
MarkT:
Lead free every time, lead is an insidious neurotoxin, can live without it (and there's
a legal requirement in the EU).
No that is incorrect. The requirement for lead free solder is only if you sell something that was made after the RoSH legislation came into force and only then if it is one of the categories of equipment that are coverd by the restrictions. You are free to use leaded solder for your own projects or for repairing pre RoSH legislation equipment, or for making medical, or military equipment. Also building infrastructure is exempt, like RFID stuff.
There is no medical evidence that lead in solder form is harmful.
Grumpy_Mike:
No that is incorrect. The requirement for lead free solder is only if you sell something that was made after the RoSH legislation came into force and only then if it is one of the categories of equipment that are coverd by the restrictions. You are free to use leaded solder for your own projects or for repairing pre RoSH legislation equipment, or for making medical, or military equipment. Also building infrastructure is exempt, like RFID stuff.
There is no medical evidence that lead in solder form is harmful.
Well, I've been soldering things for over 40 years and I'm not suffering from lead poisoning (at least not that I'm aware of).
As far as RoHS, I don't know what is required and what isn't, but I can't imagine that any standard would apply to one-of-a-kind hobby work.
Also, I'm in the US... I think RoHS is an EU thing and we comply with it only to be able to sell electronics overseas (could be wrong though).
It's funny for me to worry about lead in solder anyway when I routinely send close to 100 pounds of lead each weekend into a dirt berm, one bullet at a time (target shooting).
Krupski:
It's funny for me to worry about lead in solder anyway when I routinely send close to 100 pounds of lead each weekend into a dirt berm, one bullet at a time (target shooting).
The day will come when lead bullets will be banned due to health hazards. Then you'll have to get used to the depleted uranium ones instead
In the UK there is already a move to use bismuth in shot cartridges in place of lead. It is a very similar atomic mass to lead. An most interestingly is is diamagnetic, that is it will be repelled by a magnet.
IIRC, in California lead bullets are banned because of something having to do with the bald eagle and other raptors (?)...
Regarding RoHS - one of the big things that are exempt are automobile batteries, which have waaaay more lead in them than you are likely to come into contact in a lifetime thru solder.
The other interesting thing is that now - at least in theory; I don't know if any studies have been done - people think "Oh, lead free - so I can just toss my old radio in the trash..." - not realizing the tons of other carcinogenic and poisonous components that make up an electronic device (the majority far worse and easily break down in the environment compared to leaded solder).
The RoHS was mainly created by a bunch of politicians and environmentalists who got it in their heads that this was a big problem without doing proper empirical studies (I have nothing against environmentalism - just back up your assertions with empirical data); I also wouldn't be surprised if in some part, some lobby for the electronics manufacturing equipment manufacturers wasn't involved (due to the insane amount of money that was needed world-wide to retool for the EU).
So now we have consumer products that have a "shelf life" until they mysteriously fail (and often catastrophically - that is, catch on fire). Perhaps that shelf life is many years, or perhaps less - but one day they will fail, regardless of whether they get used or not. I'm glad all of my vintage microcomputers came into being before this standard went into effect. Poor kids today likely won't have that option when they get nostalgic for their old toys in the future.
I use standard 60/40 leaded rosin core solder of various diameters. I've tried the silver-bearing stuff, and I really didn't like how it behaved.
Grumpy_Mike:
In the UK there is already a move to use bismuth in shot cartridges in place of lead. It is a very similar atomic mass to lead. An most interestingly is is diamagnetic, that is it will be repelled by a magnet.
This has been talked about in the US as well. It'd be a nice source of cheap bismuth - which is interesting for making low melting alloys (the kind you can melt in hot water)... though considering the key ingredient in the good low melting alloys, it's not worth sweating over the price of bismuth.
If you can't find indium, gallium or cadmium, the next best thing is Bi 52.5% Pb 32%, Sn 15.5% by weight which will get you an alloy with the melting point of 95°C.
That should be fairly cheap to make and the ingredients are available on ebay.
I also wouldn't be surprised if in some part, some lobby for the electronics manufacturing equipment manufacturers wasn't involved (due to the insane amount of money that was needed world-wide to retool for the EU).
I can tell you that electronic manufacturers fought tooth and nail against it, and came up with all sorts of ways of getting around it. This resulted in the draft legislation being tightened up until it is the mess you see today. I know I was there fighting to no avail.
Shpaget:
If you can't find indium, gallium or cadmium, the next best thing is Bi 52.5% Pb 32%, Sn 15.5% by weight which will get you an alloy with the melting point of 95°C.
That should be fairly cheap to make and the ingredients are available on ebay.
Yeah, I was talking about the indium - because with BiPbInSnCd, you can get the temperature down to 117F (48C), low enough to handle in the liquid phase without burning yourself, so you can take casts of your finger print and stuff like that. BiPbInSn is pretty close, I think 136F, but that's a bit too hot to handle comfortably. I've cast both of those using Instamorph (polycaprolactone) molds - It's surprising how well they come out. Woods metal (BiPbSnCd) is around the same, too, I think maybe a bit higher.
I've got a bunch of gallium, but what the hell good is it, other than as a party trick or practical joke (either the old gallium spoon, or sabotaging aluminum equipment)? You can't make anything with it, because it'll melt on a hot day! It's also nowhere near as much fun to play with as mercury, which is sad, since mercury is kinda too toxic to play with.
Hello!
I live in Japan. I am using the "KR-19 SHRMA LFM-48" (96.5% tin 3% Silver 0.5% Copper) manufactured by Nihon Almit. This solder is very hard, I think best for mounting of parts consuming forces such as DC or audio jack.
Lead-free solders product of Senju Metal Industry Co., Ltd. is famous in Japan, but I prefer one of Alimt's. I try to experiment with lead-free solder made in Japan, I think easy to use this is the best at the moment. However, now have also been new lead-free solder is developed one after another, might come out more easy-to-use solder.