I did a 16 inside a 24, similar to your plan. I found daisy chaining the 16s together into one data line made it a bit easier programming than just one continuous line. Thus I just had to add 16 to my address to sync up the other eye. The math to do them all wouldn't be too bad, depending upon the FX you wanted.
I also came up with a clever (I thought) use of a single button interface to control it. Using loops to debounce the switch, I first made sure it was good and pressed for some number of milliseconds in a loop. Then I had the code drop into another timed loop to see if the button push was a short push or a long push. Thus I was able to change both the pattern, and for some patterns, the color choice. If I were to do it again, I'd have the long press slowly cycle dim to bright until I let up on the button.
This brings to mind something to watch for on this kind of project: power consumption. I used little 150 mah lipo soft packs, made for RC quads, for power attached to one of the arms. This brings up the second, biggest problem you will run into, and maybe show stopper for you: those LED rings with thick round boards start to add up in weight. With 4 rings, two for each eye, mine got heavy quickly.
If I were to do it again, I use some mini LED strips, meaning the sub 10mm addressable strips using the SK6812. Search on ebay for them.
The only other thing that turned me off this project was the LED chips themselves being white against a black PCB. I went as far as masking and painting them to blend together better. I've also thought about using something to defuse the direct LED light and soften the overall look.
My other "cute" idea concerning LED glasses was what I call a Groucho Marx mod where you make fake eyebrows. Then using tiny pager motors, make the eyebrows "wiggle".
One more idea I had was to do the LED strip facing outwards and on each LED end glue/attach a short section of the appropriately size fiber optic to it. Yes, they make fiber-optic as big as 8mm if not bigger.