I took the drill template and marked the center of the holes with a push-pin
and drilled the LED holes to 3/16". Only the tops of the LEDs fit in
the holes. The maple top is 3/8" thick. Depending on how the LEDs
look I may mill the top down a little and refinish the top.
Although it is time consuming to drill the holes top panels
can be ganged together and drilled at the same time.
Soldering and alignment of the LEDs is trivial when the LEDs
are placed between the board and top. Everything stays
nicely aligned when the board is flipped.
that looks very nice, what style of finish are you going to do? if a high gloss finish maybe you could flood fill the led tops upto the surface of the finish
that looks very nice, what style of finish are you going to do?
Thanks. I was thinking of just a gloss or semi-gloss polyurethane. I hate doing
finishing so I usually just do two or three coats of poly.
Since I took the pictures and built the LED board I realized that the hole for the
pot is on the wrong side I just plugged the hole with a mahogany bung.
The top will have a freckle opposite the pot.
I like our finish tech at work's approach, although we use polyester resin, but he basicly dams off what he wants with tape, floods the big areas first, and when stuff is starting to set up gels on the large flat areas, really darn thick, sands it all uniform and hits it on a buffing wheel until perfect
its amazing to watch the process he goes through, then I cant even get a flat coat of lacquor on a small board using his tools ::)
it was The original block was all oak. I had a drill size of 0.205 which blew-out
some of the wood between the LEDs. I ran the case through the planer removed
the top and glued on the maple. I changed the drill size to 0.1875. The combination
of the smaller drill size and the change in wood produced much better
results.
I just plugged the hole with a mahogany bung.
The original block was all oak. I had a drill size of 0.205 which blew-out