Ws2812b wearable with lipo battery circuit

I noticed my lipo battery on my project is a little bloated after a few uses and charges and I'm wondering if its due to a mistake on my design? This will probably be a tough one to comment on but any help is appreciated since I feel like I planned a wearable circuit with lights for kids using LIPO batteries without having the qualification...

I made the above circuit using:
2000 mah lipo with a protection circuit
TP4056 charging module
hw183 2A Board DC Boost Module
arduino pro micro
3 pin slide switch KC011

I'm attaching a basic fritzing diagram of my design. I'm using it with about a meter, 3 feet, of ws2812b.

I basically wanted an all in, lightweight design which has plug and charge feature. Meaning I can charge it using a usb-c cable anytime I want. The usb-c port on the TP4056 allows me this.
However before each charge I make sure I use the 3-pin switch to switch off the circuit and the leds... so the battery is charged only when the leds are off.. however im not sure if this means the load off the battery is also off...

I based my circuit from what I saw on this link:
https://bikepixels.com/2019/11/10/how-to-add-a-lipo-battery-in-our-arduino-projects/

Yes this sounds like the battery is damaged.

That switch only removes the ground, I would doubt if that were good enough. I would use a double pole switch to make sure.

In fact it should be the Vcc that should be switched, have a look at this project

And to make matter worse, the switch is not in the proper spot. Like that it doesn't interrupt the power at all to the step up unit. The switch should cut the power between the TP4056 unit and the HW183.

That is actually quite a lot, what would be the maximum current draw at full brightness ? (calculate 60mA per WS2812b)

I used a Neopixel LED strip in a wearble hat.

I also used a LiPo, but there is a risk to using these, so the LiPo is inside the hat, inside one of those fire resistant bags, designed for LiPos.

What! An Instructibles project by that serial misunderstander of Electronics, Great Scott . I wouldn't trust him to breathe air in and out if it wasn't involuntary.

It's not the length that matters. It's the number of LEDs. These strips are available in 30, 60, even 144 LEDs per metre.

Well it works as expected for me, but i understand your sentiments. Basic idea is no different from what the OP is doing. Main difference being that Scott got the position of the switch right.,

Here i am puzzled, so current can flow through a single wire ? back and forth ?

Agreed there, but actually more likely from 'over-discharge' than from over-charge (which actually causes them to explode)

Over-discharge shouldn't be a problem.

More likely a manufacturing fault.

It depends on the current draw. Have you seen the thermal images in the comments section?

Never come across AC before?

When trying to isolate a device you need to remove both +ve and -ve because of parasitic powering that can happen if you only disconnect one.

Not on a battery no.. The switch should be between the battery and whatever it is powering. a single pole switch will work !

The whole basis of the protection circuit is that it disconnects the GND from the battery using either of the 2 mosfets. In what way could current flow in reverse direction through them anyway ?

Well maybe excess current draw. The protection circuit in the battery may be just to prevent overheating.

So in what way is it different from a TP4056 module that you can buy online in combination with a MT3608. I checked the datasheets, i don't think there is anything wrong with it. An FS312-f is perfectly suited for the protection job and for the rest the circuits match what is recommended in the datasheet.
I would make my onw PCB which would include the switch (and a power signalling LED). The MT3608 part is optional, but again it is the same as the datasheet recommends.

So really, i mean i guess Great Scott has posted some stuff that has made you form an opinion, but in this case i think you are making up ghosts to scare the guests of the house.

Thank you, its a 60led/meter strip.

The strip is running the current animations pretty okay so i don't think theres a reason to adjust this incase that might be the reason of bloated battery. I can set current for an animation through Fastled library as well, so that part seems in control

Thank you, i will check on this. However the size of the unit is really important since this is a wearable. Maybe i will try to use 2 switches one for ground and one for vcc if its not overkill

Thank you, i will try with different switch setup and post diagram here.

We often differ about hardware, so rather than get into a slanging match I will just ignore you.

But read the datasheets or just ignore them. Truth is that there is situations where we differ in point of view, and in some cases that means only one of can be right. That that is always you in your opinion makes sense..
I just don't see how a schematic that is fine when bought from China, can be wrong when built yourself, and when you can elaborate on the AC-battery i am all ears, 'cause that would really come in handy !

apologize in front for my lack of knowledge.

So far the circuit is still working fine and the battery inflation seems to have stopped, so im beginning to think there might be nothing wrong with the circuit...

Is there a difference between switching the VCC or the Ground since both cut the current in the circuit i believe technically there shouldnt be a difference, could you elaborate? The example you sent was rather difficult to understand for me since there is no switch. Is there any chance you have Fritzing and you can show me a sample suggestion which I might try, or you could describe in text using cables and connections i have? The 3 pin on-on switch adds a few challanges in designing and describing the circuit and applying other designs into mine as well...

the switch doesn't interrupt the power at all to the step up unit but it does interrupt the ground to the stepup unit. which means there is no current in the circuit, am i correct that this should not have an effect?

it is a lot, but it works fine as current draw can be limited by library Fastled and the animation running on the strip has a huge effect on current draw. I believe 60ma is the max but only reached when its full white... which it rarely is.

The protection circuit already breaks the GND connection to the battery if it engages, but for the rest it shouldn't matter but since you want to make sure that the circuit draws no power while charging, and the charging unit needs to be connected to the battery, it should be easier. Otherwise, connect GND of the step-up & LED strip and switch that from the rest.

There is ! where it should be, between the Vout of the charging unit and the step-up.

Seiously NO !! we don't use Fritzing, we don't want fritzing and i suspect that the confusion is actually caused by your fritzing diagram which may not be draw correctly.

Not in the diagram you drawn. There is a direct connection between the charging unit & the step-up.

If it is the way you've drawn it, there is something wrong. mind you the inflation may also be caused by external heat. My old laptop has bulged up in the location of the battery as a result of heat. It is also still working fine and has several hours of capacity.

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