That ought to tell - measure across the track (ignore wiper). Offhand I don't know what range of voltages digital pots can do.
If you measure the voltages while it's running you may find a much easier solution.
Perhaps going from 0-5v is enough for your purposes?
Yeah, i'll do this tomorrow...
Candy xx
Candygirl3x:
The controller box is equiped with 2x on/off switches and 2x 5k Pots, I was planning to make the controller removable with a GX16 9 pin connector and simply connect the arduino to it or the original controlBox...
Ah! That sounds like it will work well. If you find 5V across the pots you should be all set!
I'm stunned that nobody has offered to come over and wire the whole thing up just for the privileged of watching the first test drive.
wrecks135:
I'm stunned that nobody has offered to come over and wire the whole thing up just for the privileged of watching the first test drive.
More than likely candygirl3x is just a guy wanting harmone driven tech help. 
zoomkat:
wrecks135:
I'm stunned that nobody has offered to come over and wire the whole thing up just for the privileged of watching the first test drive.More than likely candygirl3x is just a guy wanting harmone driven tech help.
Do a quick Google search...candygirl3x is an actual web cam girl and her profile picture matches her picture icon used here.
Do a quick Google search...candygirl3x is an actual web cam girl and her profile picture matches her picture icon used here.
Ooooo, internet easy! Just pick a webcam girl, make a forum account under her name, and use her pix as your forum pix.
lollll,
Well, if you also type in my Handle and adc facebook, you'll also see my profile, or type my handle and ' lifestylelounge"
you'll find our Swingers profile... Basically if you type my handle and some key words you'll see i'm pretty much what I claim to be 
Candy xxx
Candygirl3x:
lollll,Well, if you also type in my Handle and adc facebook, you'll also see my profile, or type my handle and ' lifestylelounge"
you'll find our Swingers profile... Basically if you type my handle and some key words you'll see i'm pretty much what I claim to beCandy xxx
Not necessairly. You could still be a hairy eastern european guy. You control all the info supplied to those sites, so you could be anybody. I've found that the only way I trust verifying a webcam entertainment person on the net is to request they do something simple like hold up three fingers. If that doesn't happen, then one is probably just watching a canned video. always verify!
hihih,
If I hold a card up saying " Zoomkat makes me Horny " will you elaborate this
project for me ? lolll
Candy xxx
Candygirl3x:
hihih,If I hold a card up saying " Zoomkat makes me Horny " will you elaborate this
project for me ? lolllCandy xxx
Yup, I think a new profile pic with you and a sign saying Zoomkat would just about put him on the hook for solving your problem! I'm a believer.
ahahaha,
If that's all that it takes !!! You guy's gotta admit that my idea is good... Then
i'll try to incorporate a trigger to set off a electric dog collar.... Probabably lotsa
" viewers " screwed up enough to actually pay to inflict electrical discharges loll
xxx
Yup, I think a new profile pic with you and a sign saying Zoomkat would just about put him on the hook for solving your problem! I'm a believer.
Internet easy again. the hairy eastern euro guy could do the same.
If I hold a card up saying " Zoomkat makes me Horny " will you elaborate this
project for me ? lolll
That would probably get the job done!
There could be a cottage industry making/selling client side arduino based internet gizmos to operate various toys on the client end. Many years ago I tried to get a friend interested in being an internet dominatrix while I developed the client side toys/devices. Probably a lot easier now with many different video conference applications and web enabled devices.
Candygirl3x:
I figure that it's overcomplicating something really simple lolllllStraight forward... Can the arduino be turned into a 5k Potentiometer?
If so can the resistance be software controlled?
Candy xx
Greetings Candy and others reading,
I'd like to urge caution before substituting digitally-controlled potentiometers into the Sybian's motor-control circuit. I wouldn't want harm coming to your Sybian, your PC, your Arduino or -- most importantly, you! 
A circuit that involves house current is IMHO a risky first electronics project. If you possibly can, I suggest you find somebody nearby who has some elecronics experience to assist.
Before trying to substitute in digiPots, I'd measure the voltage across the existing pots and check that against the datasheet. A scope would be better than a meter to make those measurements, because the max. voltage may differ significantly from the average voltage (what a voltmeter would read), especially if the motors are AC powered.
Don't assume you can connect your PC, Arduino and (especially) your Sybian's motor controler safely, without some sort of signal/ground isolation. The PC's signal ground is tied to Earth ground (at least it is on all PCs I've ever checked.) The Sybian's motor-controller is probably not earth ground referenced. Connecting two imcompatibly referenced circuits is a recipe for sparks and damage!
Not all 5K potentiometers are equvalent.
The digitally-controlled pots I've looked at all have significant limitations on voltages and currents -- limitations that make them problematic in typical AC speed-control circuits. Here http://www.circuitstoday.com/modified-lamp-dimmer-circuit is a typical dimmer circuit. Most AC motor speed controls would be basically similar. From the datasheet of the DB3202, the 100K pot in that circuit is seeing voltages of approx +/-30 volts, referred to the AC neutral line, not to earth ground. The digital pots mentioned so far can't handle such voltages.
My intent isn't to discourage. My intent is to offer cautions that might prevent damage or injury. Where there's a will, there's a way -- although it may involve dealing with some necessary "complications."
Hi PiJoy,
Bf took the Sybian appart, compared it to what we will be using...
Bodine 24a series 90v Dc motor Connected to kbic-120
Bodine 24a series 130v Dc motor Connected to kbwd-13
http://goo.gl/NPjsa <----- Kbic-120 Controller
http://goo.gl/jwt15 <----- Kbwd-13 Controller
Model 0041 - 24A Series Permanent Magnet DC Motor - DC Motors - Bodine Electric <----- Bodine motor spec
The Pots are regular 5k ( supplied with controllers ) The arduino setup would be interfacing
with a controller before the Dc Motor, and the only thing in the remote are 2 pots and 2 12v lighted switches.
But thank you for your concerns
Candy xxx
Ps: Zoomcat, I havent forgotten you .... loll
The KBWD-13 manual shows how to substitute a PWM output for the pot. See Figure 5c. This would likely be a better choice than the digital pot.
I wonder if the same thing would work for the KBIC-120.
@Candygirl3x,
Good work getting the motor and controller part numbers and especially locating the manuals for the controller boards! They're both DC motors, so controlling them is easier, circuit wise.
As I suspected, both controller manuals say that isolation is REQUIRED!
Section 9.4 in the KBIC-120 Manual says the pot-substitute voltage must be isolated from AC_hot, AC_neutral and AC_earth ground. The other controller's manual says (see pages 8 and 10, especially figure 5C) says that you can control the speed with either an isolated analog voltag or an isolated PWM signal. Whatever is controlling the first controller in place of its potentiometer probably also needs to be electrically isolated from whatever is controlling the other one. That's the safe way to bet. PWM stands for pulse width modulation, basically turning a digital signal on/off very fast, and making the ratio of on time/off time vary from 0 -- 100%. Arduinos can output PWM signals without added circuitry, and isolating a PWM signal is easier than isolating a variable (analog) voltage.
You may be able "steal" suitable power from the controller boards themselves, via their P1 and P3 pins. Doing so would greatly simplify things. Figure 5C shows a way to do this, for that controller. That basic circuit may also work for the other Bodine controller. (You might contact Bodine and ask them about doing so. Nothing to lose, easier to do if correct.)
Here are some notes on the circuit in Figure 5C, from the bottom up:
The goal for circuit 5C is that the output (connected to P2) should reach at least (VoltageAtP3 - 0.7 volts ) when the LED is full on and no more than 0.7 volts when the LED is off.
The LED in the opto-isolator needs a resistor in series to limit the current. For the 4N37, http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/4N37M/4N37MFS-ND/400353 , that's 10mA. So for an Arduino (nominally 5volt outputs), the series resistor would be about (5V - 1.5V {for LED})/0.010 = 350 Ohms. 330 ohms is fine. There are many other opto-isolators, including two-channel ones available in through-hole packages.
The 22K resistor may need to be changed, depending on the opto-isolator and transistors used. You might substitue a 100K pot, if you don't want to try a bunch of different resistors. (If you do, start with it at its mid-point, and never set it to provide less than about 1K ohms (or else you might burn out the opto-isolator.)
The two transistors above the 560K resistor are complementary, not identical. If the P1 -- P3 voltage is no more than 30 volts, I'd suggest trying 2N3904 for NPN and 2N3906 for PNP.
The 4.7K resistor and the 4.7uFd cap form a low-pass filter, needed if you drive the LED with a PWM signal. I recommend using PWM, because there are simple Arduino commands to create a PWM output.
Using PWM + circuit 5C means you don't even need digital pots.
Hope this helps!
After some research, I think I found something that fits my bill a little better... what
do you guy's think..?
Frankly, that last post scared the hell out of me, and got me really lost loll
http://www.controlanything.com/Relay/Device/UPOT8PROXR
Candy xxx
That is functionally identical to the "Arduino + Digital Pot" solution that has been discussed. PiJoy's post still applies here; the digital potentiometer chips on that board are capable of 5V and 1 millamp max.