3D printed PCB with solder trenches, feasible?

I had an idea and I'm curious what people's opinions are as to its feasibility and practicality.

Essentially using a 3D printer to print a small ABS plastic card that has thinly cut trenches for all of the circuitry and holes for components.

Then once it's printed, use a little bit of solder and fill in all the trenches for the circuits, drop in your components and solder them as well.

Obviously this isn't for large scale projects or extremely complex circuits, but under the use case of one-offs/ small projects I think it could work well?

I don't quite understand... molten metal and plastic. Am I missing something?

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Hello
You can modify the 3D printer so that it can mill circuit boards.

They are certainly accurate enough for that but it would be my very last move. so much motor vibration etc.

You'd be surprised... in the design of a custom case with tons of buttons that I have built, it was easiest to create a custom "perfboard" so to speak with exact mm distance between buttons. I soldered all of them on (VERY carefully) and at worse lightly scarred in a few spots, but just minor warp no significant structural changes or real melting.

Although haven't tried it here, I'm assuming the same could be done here with lower-heat soldering and taking care to avoid direct contact

This is a good point I hadn't thought of, depending on the application of it this could be fairly bad

I guess the real question is why would you? ...I'm sure you could, but you could just as easily make a board using more traditional techniques.

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I have seen that and might invest in the future for it definitely, but as of now I don't really have a lot of time available and very rarely need to produce a PCB.

This was more sitting here thinking "how could I make an OK-ish PCB with that materials I have in front of me" type of thing

Totally separate from my other answer about "what's in front of me" thinking, I would say... cost. This process is using maybe 15 cents worth of ABS plastic and 25-50 cents of solder. Where else can you get a 40-65 cent PCB with 1 quantity manufacturing?

Hello
In this case do a trial on error tour, to see what is feasible.
Don´t forget to report the results.

Once I have some free time at home with the printer, I'll definitely do some testing and post my results here!

I could drive a nail in with a screwdriver if I tried hard enough...but it would be a lot easier with a hammer. :slight_smile:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001112538235.html?src=google&memo1=freelisting&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=9444695485&albag=99457316601&trgt=1459734606882&crea=en4001112538235&netw=u&device=c&albpg=1459734606882&albpd=en4001112538235&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2NaNBhDvARIsAEw55hiUqCS0LtIoYfEMFMvwk8EI8G8Iut-oZNwLJaRuo-OLVm2RByLPdYcaAgyZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=e20c0dbb156c468ab1ed9c4e80302a49-1639380064678-03869-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=e20c0dbb156c468ab1ed9c4e80302a49-1639380064678-03869-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=7a7ea789f98149ab9a675acb57129e38

Good luck... and all the best. :slight_smile:

Prototype board is definitely good in some instances for sure. But this method reaps the benefit of a PCB, it can easily hold an ATTiny13 SMD sized microcontroller and really condense down the size of the chip as a whole

Solder is, compared to copper, a poor conductor. There is also a continuity risk and it might more prone to breaking.

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Ok so throwing this into the mix as it seems to have been done to a degree.

And another example

Hi michael.

Yes, it is feasible.

topside:


underside:

Essentially it is what is termed POINT TO POINT wiring.

3d printed "perf board":

The problem with 3D printed perfboard is that you have to have your nozzle at just the right height above the bed or the plastic will fill in the tiny holes.

Another issue is, of course, solder melting the plastic.

This device is a parking assistant I've been using in the car for over two years. It holds a Nano, buzzer and a header block to which an ultrasonic sensor connects. On the underside I laid a grid of pegs between the thru-holes. The hookup wires are routed around the pegs.


(upload://hIPniHvZX9r8oDdZNeE88wObhKu.jpeg)