7segment display counter with remote communications.

Hello everyone,
I'll get straight to the point, I've been working on a simple project that consists of essentially a 2 digit 7 segment counter, that can be controlled by an IR remote. After prototyping, turns out that the IR remote won't be enough as the place where the big 2 digit display is supposed to go, is going to be pretty crowded and after some testing the IR remote does not work as intended.

Therefore I would appreciate some advice on:
-Best way to efficiently power the new displays I've ordered;
-Best way to efficiently communicate with the Arduino Nano, on a crowded environment;

Additional information:
The communication done to the nano is essentially just a simple input, I've thought about bluetooth but it seems too extensive for the project as a whole.
For context:
The 2 digit displays will essentially be displayed on a store, and it would be updated manually by one of the employees using something like a button or a remote, but since the display is supposed to be near the clients area it won't be possible to use something like a wire, hence why it needs to be wireless. Another thing to mention is the fact that the display is going to get updated pretty often (e.g: An employee presses a button/remote every minute).

7segment display datasheet: https://www.tme.com/Document/2d9d00bba37a9fcf5218dc2ca18ad416/kw1-4003asa.pdf

Good. Keep up the work.

In case You would have a question please prepare Yourself by reading the first topics like "How to use this Forum" etc.

Really not enough information here to offer useful advice.

aarg:
Really not enough information here to offer useful advice.

Well to put it simple, I just wanted to know the best way to send an input (e.g: imagine a button press wiressly), using only one arduino.
Best regards,
Lux.

Common anode. Right choice for once.
I assume you're going to use two TPIC6B595 chips to drive the display. And a >=12volt supply.

What is the max distance.

There are many single channel remote control buttons on ebay.
Leo..

Railroader:
In case You would have a question please prepare Yourself by reading the first topics like "How to use this Forum" etc.

I guess I do have a question regarding the 7 segment display part of the project! Cheers! I did read that, but I still thought this was the right place to post it, sorry in advance.
Have a wonderful night,
Lux.

Wawa:
Common anode. Right choice for once.
I assume you're going to use two TPIC6B595 chips to drive the display. And a >=12volt supply.

What is the max distance.
Leo..

Hi there! Thanks for the reply! I was planning on using a Shift register for the 7segment displays indeed :), although I'm not very familiar with them as I've only touched them around a year ago in one of my subjects and I pretty much forgot most of it!
Answering to your question, the max distance wouldn't be too far away, just around 5m max!
And on a side note, would a 12v supply be enough for the two displays?
Have a great one,
Lux.

This is likely a good place for questions but give some real information, not a lot of loose words.
Post a wiring diagram, code. Tell what doesn't work, how it fails, what it should do.
I feel I waist time on writing the questions You should do. Do read those advice given in topics for beginners, and use that advice!

luxpt:
Well to put it simple, I just wanted to know the best way to send an input (e.g: imagine a button press wiressly), using only one arduino.
Best regards,
Lux.

That kind of simplicity only helps the explainer, not the person who is trying to understand.

luxpt:
the max distance wouldn't be too far away, just around 5m max!
And on a side note, would a 12v supply be enough for the two displays?

I would try one (or more) of the single-button key-fobs from ebay.

The segments have a Vf between 9 and 12volt, so a 12volt (1Amp) supply could be ok.
Sparkfun.com has big displays, and TPIC driver boards, and example code.
Have a look there.
Leo..

Use TPIC6595 to sink current thru each one. You'll need a current limit resistor per segment.
Can also PWM the OE/ of the shift register for dimming.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/TPIC6B595N/277601?
Need one per digit.

Find a big 11.1V rechargeble battery pack, such as
https://www.amazon.com/Socokin-Battery-6200mAh-Airplane-Traxxas/dp/B086VZZWKQ/ref=sr_1_45?5
Do the math, see if 6200mAH will last for 14 segments all turned on, at whatever max current you want, see how long it will last (6200/14/20 = 22 hours - maybe get 2, swap in a freshly charged one for the discharged battery once a day. Or run them not as bright. Do a little experimenting before soldering everything up).
Or bigger
Amazon.com?
Amazon.com?

Tap off that into a switching regulator to efficiently make 5V for the logic part of the board.
3.3V https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/murata-power-solutions-inc/OKI-78SR-3-3-1-5-W36-C/2259780
5V https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/murata-power-solutions-inc/OKI-78SR-5-1-5-W36-C/2259781

Instead of IR remote, try an RF remote.
Maybe something like this,
Amazon.com?
with RadioHead library (ASK part of it, the former VirtualWire.h library).
You can also find 4 channel Remote and then just have Arduino & receiver at the digit display end.
I have a card with 4 TPIC6B595, 328P, connection for FTDI for program downloading, connection for RF remote, and screw terminals to go out to the digits. Was intended to drive LED strips with built in current limit resistors, so you still need to add those.
I can leave the SD card, RS232 buffer, and DB9 connector off if you don't need them.
Or I can put them on if you think you might have a future need for them.

Wawa:
I would try one (or more) of the single-button key-fobs from ebay.

The segments have a Vf between 9 and 12volt, so a 12volt (1Amp) supply could be ok.
Sparkfun.com has big displays, and TPIC driver boards, and example code.
Have a look there.
Leo..

CrossRoads:
Use TPIC6595 to sink current thru each one. You'll need a current limit resistor per segment.
Can also PWM the OE/ of the shift register for dimming.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/TPIC6B595N/277601?
Need one per digit.

Find a big 11.1V rechargeble battery pack, such as
Amazon.com
Do the math, see if 6200mAH will last for 14 segments all turned on, at whatever max current you want, see how long it will last (6200/14/20 = 22 hours - maybe get 2, swap in a freshly charged one for the discharged battery once a day. Or run them not as bright. Do a little experimenting before soldering everything up).
Or bigger
Amazon.com?
Amazon.com?

Tap off that into a switching regulator to efficiently make 5V for the logic part of the board.
3.3V https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/murata-power-solutions-inc/OKI-78SR-3-3-1-5-W36-C/2259780
5V https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/murata-power-solutions-inc/OKI-78SR-5-1-5-W36-C/2259781

Instead of IR remote, try anr RF remote.
Maybe something like this,
Amazon.com?
with RadioHead library (ASK part of it, the former VirtualWire.h library).
You can also find 4 channel Remote and then just have Arduino & receiver at the digit display end.

That was right what I was looking for! Thank you very much for the help!
Best regards,
Lux.

4 channel remote & receiver, would work great with my card
Amazon.com?

This is the one the card was originally coded & tested with.
https://www.lightobject.com/Electronics/RF-Wireless-Controller/4CH-RF-Remote-Control-TxRx-Kit-module

Try to avoid receivers with the lacquered green coil.
The ones with a SAW filter (looks like crystal) should be more stable/reliable.
Leo..