Arduino Pro Mini 5v with Solenoid Door Lock 12v

Hi everyone, i am beginner Arduino, i want to ask my problem.

I am in project connecting Arduino Pro Mini 5V with Solenoid Door Lock 12V (1.5A - 3A)

Since my digital output pin in Pro Mini has max 5v DC (40mA), can i use "DC to DC Step Up Adjustable" to control my Solenoid Door Lock 12V (1.5A - 3A).

Will it works?

If not, what should i do to control My Solenoid with my Pro Mini

And i don't prefer use Relay, because it's very noisy

Thanks in advance, and sorry for nob question.

deddyirawan:
And i don't prefer use Relay, because it's very noisy

Probably no more noisy than the solenoid lock :wink: but you could use a transistor.

Examples like this one in the Playground abound if you search "arduino solenoid".

Thanks for the link, so i just need a Transistor, Diode and Resistor?

1 Transistor, ie IRF640
1 Resistor 10KΩ

And what kind of diode that i need to use?

Sorry once again for nob question :confused:

Can i put like this?

1 x IRF640 Transistor
1 x 10KΩ Resistor
1 x 1N4001 Diode

They guy said in the playground that just happened to be the mosfet he had lying around, I'm not sure it's a logic level fet which is what should be used I think, like a IRL520N.

I saw somewhere (can't find it right now) that the IRL520N needs a 460 ohm resistor in series on the gate, and a 10k pulldown from the Arduino pin to ground. So slight change to yours: different mosfet (but as I said I'm not sure if that one is logic level or not) and the pull down. Apparently the pull down makes sure the mosfet goes off, otherwise its capacitance keeps it alive when the Arduino pin is low.

And the pic you posted shows you powering the solenoid off the Arduino 5V which you don't want to do since yours is 12V?

I am confused from Playground, so i google how connecting Arduino into 12 V Solenoid from :

The link explained, use Vin (12V) with parts like this :

  • 1 x TIP120 Darlington Transistor
  • 1 x 1K Ohm Resistor
  • 1 x 1N4001 Diode

Yeah that playground article's pretty crap, sorry about that!

It's basically the same general idea to use the TIP or the FET, just the FET needs the pulldown to make sure it goes off.

You'll in either case use a 12V supply to the solenoid, and the ground from that side will be the same ground as from the Arduino side, and the FET source.

The only other thing that pg article has is an opto isolater which you could use if you wanted total electrical separation for any reason.

So can i use those link above, with all components and since that link used Selenoid Valve and i can just replace it with my Solenoid door lock?

Here's some really good stuff from a respected "Arduinite": diagram near top of page is exactly what you want, except it's a motor not a solenoid, but still an inductor so the diode is required.

manor_royal:
Here's some really good stuff from a respected "Arduinite": diagram near top of page is exactly what you want, except it's a motor not a solenoid, but still an inductor so the diode is required.

Oh ok, thank's will read it and hope it can solve my problem

Well the way you had with the TIP is fine, as is the FET, just a logic level FET like IRL520N.

I recently did exactly what Nick Gammon shows, except I think my gate resistor was 460.

But the two ways (TIP or FET) are essentially the same thing: npn or n-channel low-side switch.

manor_royal:
Well the way you had with the TIP is fine, as is the FET, just a logic level FET like IRL520N.

I recently did exactly what Nick Gammon shows, except I think my gate resistor was 460.

But the two ways (TIP or FET) are essentially the same thing: npn or n-channel low-side switch.

I see, so u used 460 Resistor at Gate, if i can bother u, do you remember what kind of Diode and Transistor that u used from your project before?

Edit: Sorry, i saw all parts that Gammon used for it. Thanks bro

Thanks

Yeah the transistor was a logic level FET IRL520N and the diode was a 1N400-something not sure which.

manor_royal:
Yeah the transistor was a logic level FET IRL520N and the diode was a 1N400-something not sure which.

Thank you so much. Have a nice day :slight_smile:

deddyirawan:
Thanks for the link, so i just need a Transistor, Diode and Resistor?

1 Transistor, ie IRF640
1 Resistor 10KΩ

And what kind of diode that i need to use?

Sorry once again for nob question :confused:

The IRF640 is not logic-level, so no use to you. It also has too high an on-resistance anyway - this
is mainly because of the rediculous voltage rating of 200V. If you are switching 12V use something like
a 30 or 40V rated MOSFET so the on-resistance is much lower.

You need a logic level MOSFET with an on-resistance of 0.1 ohm or less (0.03 ohm is a high value
for a modern low-voltage modern MOSFET, you might as well pick a device that's less than 40 years old!)

MarkT:
You need a logic level MOSFET with an on-resistance of 0.1 ohm or less (0.03 ohm is a high value
for a modern low-voltage modern MOSFET, you might as well pick a device that's less than 40 years old!)

Thank's for the answer, it's make me more understand.

Sorry for bother u all with my noob question, but thank's guys :slight_smile:

MarkT:
You need a logic level MOSFET with an on-resistance of 0.1 ohm or less (0.03 ohm is a high value
for a modern low-voltage modern MOSFET, you might as well pick a device that's less than 40 years old!)

Sorry, 1 last question.

Since my Solenoid works in 1.5 - 3 A

So what i need to find for MOSFET is

  1. works at 30-40 V (since selenoid is 12V so i need higher Volt at MOSFET)
  2. works at max 3A (since selenoid max 3A) or i should i go with higher Ampere?
  3. works at low resistance, i.e less than 0.1 Ohm for durability

AOI510

Works well with Arduino.

Thanks Moderator, but i can't find AOI510 in my country lol

I am gonna find Mosfet like that, 30V with 70A.
If i can't find it, well last choice, i go with Relay

Thanks

deddyirawan:
If i can't find it, well last choice, i go with Relay

There's more than one way of doing it with a transistor, as you have seen. Sounds like this is a one off for your own use, total efficeincy and engineering is not the point here. And if you then go into production making 100s, well obviously you then plan that and get stock of the best components for the job.

Try the IRL520N even if its Rds is almost 2 ohms not under 0.1 or whatever. Or use a crappy old Darlington TIP120. So what? This is a hobby site not engineering school- use what you have and live with its inefficiencies.