Brand new to all of this and was wondering if I could get some input before I buy my components to start experimenting with.
Project is to install an 18 amp brushed fan (Flex-a-Lite 188) into my car to replace the current pulley-driven fan.
There will be a coolant temperature sensor installed in the engine block. Probably a Flex-a-Lite 32050 with a zinc coated 3/8" to 1/4" steel bushing to reduce corrosion between the cast iron block and the (what looks like) brass sensor.
Fan speed will be controlled via PWM and will range from off when at or below 195º F and 100% when at or above 210º F. Depending on performance, I might want to add a condition for the fan speed to be increased when the AC is being used.
I'm thinking an Arduino Uni R3 with a Cytron 30A Motor Driver should be able to manage all of this.
Normally speed control is not required.
Fan or rather, fans, are on or off depending on range of temperature.
Usually most run only when at lower vehicle speeds as at higher speed, the airflow is sufficient not to require fans at all.
The whole idea behind the electric driven fan.
Sure, could definitely get away with On/Off or High/Low/Off, but there are some minor benefits of fine control - less noise, more consistent temperate, future integration with AC and transmission/power steering temps.
Plus, it's an interesting project.
In reading around, it seems like noise from using PWM might be a concern. Looking into addressing that now.
Brand new to all of this and was wondering if I could get some input before I buy my components to start experimenting with.
Project is to install an 18 amp brushed fan (Flex-a-Lite 188) into my car to replace the current pulley-driven fan.
There will be a coolant temperature sensor installed in the engine block. Probably a Flex-a-Lite 32050 with a zinc coated 3/8" to 1/4" steel bushing to reduce corrosion between the cast iron block and the (what looks like) brass sensor.
Fan speed will be controlled via PWM and will range from off when at or below 195º F and 100% when at or above 210º F. Depending on performance, I might want to add a condition for the fan speed to be increased when the AC is being used.
I'm thinking an Arduino Uni R3 with a Cytron 30A Motor Driver should be able to manage all of this.
All this look good? Anything you would change?
Hatsuwr:
Hi everyone,
Brand new to all of this and was wondering if I could get some input before I buy my components to start experimenting with.
Project is to install an 18 amp brushed fan (Flex-a-Lite 188) into my car to replace the current pulley-driven fan.
There will be a coolant temperature sensor installed in the engine block. Probably a Flex-a-Lite 32050 with a zinc coated 3/8" to 1/4" steel bushing to reduce corrosion between the cast iron block and the (what looks like) brass sensor.
Fan speed will be controlled via PWM and will range from off when at or below 195º F and 100% when at or above 210º F. Depending on performance, I might want to add a condition for the fan speed to be increased when the AC is being used.
I'm thinking an Arduino Uni R3 with a Cytron 30A Motor Driver should be able to manage all of this.
All this look good? Anything you would change?
Do you actually have this fan in your possession, so you know it is brushed?
No, but I've talked to the manufacturer who confirmed that.
I'd prefer brushless, but haven't found a product that will fit my vehicle well, and I think fabricating the whole thing is a bit beyond what I want to put into this project. Although, if I run across an appropriate motor, fan blade, and way to secure them, it might change my mind!
Hatsuwr:
Sure, could definitely get away with On/Off or High/Low/Off, but there are some minor benefits of fine control - less noise, more consistent temperate, future integration with AC and transmission/power steering temps.
Plus, it's an interesting project.
In reading around, it seems like noise from using PWM might be a concern. Looking into addressing that now.
Power steering does not go through the radiator.
Auto does, AC cooling is in front of water cooling and has it's own requirements which are different from water.
Temperature and fan relationship is not needed to be "tightly" controlled, the range they work in is quite sufficient. There is also "heat delay" consideration.
Can't argue with it being a "project" as it will more than likely keep you going for quite a while.
Be careful. A bug would mean an overheated engine and subsequent failure. You'd want to make sure all connections are wrapped tight to oil/water. Heat-shrink is a good option.
bluejets:
Power steering does not go through the radiator.
Auto does, AC cooling is in front of water cooling and has it's own requirements which are different from water.
Temperature and fan relationship is not needed to be "tightly" controlled, the range they work in is quite sufficient. There is also "heat delay" consideration.
Can't argue with it being a "project" as it will more than likely keep you going for quite a while.
I have auxiliary PS and trans coolers that sit in front of the radiator and AC condenser, all serviced by the same fan.
Temperatures don't need to be too tightly controlled, but there are benefits to it. Engines have an optimal operating temperature to decrease wear and increase efficiency. If I have the ability anyway, may as well stick close to that!
Hoping to have this up and running in a week or two, depending on how long it takes me to figure out how to use the Arduino!
mattlogue:
Be careful. A bug would mean an overheated engine and subsequent failure. You'd want to make sure all connections are wrapped tight to oil/water. Heat-shrink is a good option.
Will be careful! Thankfully, at least with my engine, I don't expect the fan to be used at all with normal driving. On hot days with frequent stops and slow speeds it will definitely kick in, but even in the event of a failure there will be a few hard to ignore signs before the engine is damaged. Should be able to get quite a long way by driving light and avoiding frequent stops. The water pump on the other hand... Had that go out a couple times and had to limp home a mile at a time with long stops to cool down in between.
I’d repeat and agree you don’t need PWM control.
The engine has it’s own thermostat to control coolant flow to give a steady engine temperature . The amount of cooling you get through the radiator depends on how fast you are going , and the heat produced depends on engine load .
An electric fan is only of any use when the car is stationary to prevent over heating; so variable speed control ( as well as difficult due to lags in the system) is not worth it and will have zero effect of engine efficiency .
hammy:
I’d repeat and agree you don’t need PWM control.
The engine has it’s own thermostat to control coolant flow to give a steady engine temperature . The amount of cooling you get through the radiator depends on how fast you are going , and the heat produced depends on engine load .
An electric fan is only of any use when the car is stationary to prevent over heating; so variable speed control ( as well as difficult due to lags in the system) is not worth it and will have zero effect of engine efficiency .
Question is not if YOU think its neccesary, but I would like to have it. I have a $140 PWM controller https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-31165-Variable-Control/dp/B000CNN3LS on my other suburban and I love how it controls fan speed (60-100%). I have it set above the thermostat temperature. Its better for load on the alternator, on the belts and at least my car does not sound like a jet fighter when my fans come on.
and a sort of PWM is how the original fan with the fanclutch works too...it always spins (not neccsary for e-fan) and ramps up when the engine temp increases for more cooling. so the original design is also not a ON/OFF system
Pay the $140 for a commercial product. It's penny wise and pound foolish to save a small amount by cobbling together your own using your own coding, design and soldering.
There are plenty of other Arduino projects that won't put your engine at risk.
That data sheet is just for legal reasons. There is no reason why something cant be engineered.
Get some logic level SSR's that are rated for the amperage. Then design a "fail safe" circuit. Like a manual on switch.
What kind of car is this on?
If it's newer, it should shut down for over temp anyway.
