Yes Tom. But my measure show over value (200 mA), again 
It seems that voltmeter and ohmmeter working good.
Then must be amp damaged in both multimeter. That would be strange.
Maybe can be in red one, which is older. But black one is new, I run it before few days.
It looks more like a factory error to me, for both.
Please post an image of your setup with DMM connected.
Tom... 
Open the DMM and check the fuses.
A blown fuse in the 200mA current circuit is common with a DMM from a beginner.
It's usually the smallest one of the two. 500mA?
Leo..
Yes, I will post when I back home. Ok?
About fuses.
Red device has only one, and it is ok. I checked before a few days.
The black device not have a fuse. Or is hidden in some chip.
@build_1971 sent a link about that device in post #21.
Unfortunately, that both was about 10 euro or under.
Would be some from 20-30 euros be better? (but not from AliExpress this time.)
Maybe you can simply live with it. Voltage and resistance measurement are reasonably accurate. You can always put a 1 ohm resistor in series and measure voltage to calculate amps...
For around 20 euro you should be able to buy a better one than you have now...
Maybe share a link here before you buy...
Before I continue, what is this?
The Arrow showing the place on the bridge where it was disconnected (one side was about 5 mm above the pin). I don't remember that I did it.
The upper socket is for 5 A. I meant that 5A not work because the bridge is disconnected, and I checked on black device where is bridge. Also, when I was put in in Amp mod, without probe connection, he was pointing a random numbers, not zero.
so I soldered it to merge the connection with the bridge. After that showing zero at beginning, like it must.
@TomGeorge Here is it. With both.
Unfortunately, I can't! 
I know that electronics don't love me, but this, what is happening, is too weird. I must found why can't I measure the current.
I would be tried with some friend's multimeter my circuit, but they don't have it 
Yes, and I meant to do it.. My country not have everything, but seems that have plenty of multimeters 
I will post what I am interested in.
In practice people do not often measure current.
If you have a known resistor in the circuit and can measure the voltage drop across it, you can calculate the current through the resistor using Ohms law.
With your 200ohm resistor and 3.23V voltage drop, by Ohms law V/R=I so 3.23V/200Ohm = 16.2mA.
If you then insert your meter into the circuit to measure current and get 200mA, your meter is broken.
It's a shunt, for the 5Amp current range of the DMM.
It is basically a very low ohm resistor made with a piece of copper wire.
It should be properly soldered at both ends to be effective.
The 500mA fuse is there to protect the shunt resistors of the other current ranges.
Leo..
As you can see: the ground connector of the black multimeter probably has a larger resistance than the shunt resistor...
Not good engineering...
I am also interested what the turning knob contacts (other side of the print) look like. But better not have a look at that, because taking that apart might ruin the alignment of the lcd contacts ...
Should be gold plated...
What happened to 6c7 in the red one?
Thanks, guys. Thanks @Wawa.
Thanks @build_1971
You have a golden eye 
That is mean that chip is missing? Maybe a factory? Or dropped out itself. Or maybe is not relevant. (It is from Kaufland).
I can solder it to make a bridge if you like?
About black DT-830B. In __this video __ it seems that current measure working for him.
I can't believe that exist multimeter without a continuity test and speaker! If I had known before, I would never buy it! I didn't check before because I expected it must have. But cheapest explain all.
Do not bridge the gap!
C stands for capacitor!
Often boards are used for more than one version of some products. So a more luxury may have a cap there (for the continuity buzzer or whatever).
But this one seems to be messed with...
And caps usually don't fail...
Unless you put the thing in 1V range and put the leads in the wall socket...
Ok.
Yellow is model FMHT9257 (label from other side).
I see that others have problem with "strange values too, not even close to what it should be."
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3723665.html
On 6C7 is gap too, but it is untouched. Chips order are slightly different, not in same place compared with mine.
Please don't bother with them, not worth it.
Our best shop in town, prefer Uni Trend multimeters. Maybe someone know what they are like?
The best will be, maybe, with 2 fuses?
If someone had experience of one of them before, please write.
I noticed that newer devices have 2xAAA, which is great, instead of expensive 9v.
These are ones which I separate and which not ugly (many of them are too ugli). I like UT design.
UT-131C, 17€
SMA 830 18,90€
UT-131A, 19,90€
MD-310, EMOS 19€
UT-133B, 21€
SMA 92 21,90
UT-132B , 25€
PCWork PCW01B 25,90€
Axiomet AX-MS8221A 27,90 €
DT9208A 29,90€
Thanks,
EDIT:
I reduced searching on two devices 
UT131A Good. But half and too simple scale.
UT132B. Looks ok, but color not so good.
UT131C Looks good. Scale good.
It seems that 131C and 133B are same, just that 133B looks upgraded version, which have num. "2" scale, and 133B num "6" scale.
So is they 131C or 133B a same? Only scale higher? I really don't need scale for 600v, it enough 250v.
The major difference is the resolution. Notice that if you were measuring your 5V or 3V supply with the 131C you would measure 5.xxV or 3.xxV but with the 133B you would get an extra digit of resolution, 5.xxxV or 3.xxxV. This may or may not be important to you.
Thanks @EmilyJane
Didn't know that my brother procured a used multimeter.
Not sure do I set cables and settings in the right place.
This one show 100 mA too.
But there is a big possibility that this not work either, because I don't know where he found it.
Tomorrow I will buy new device, but this is what he scary me.
That multimeter is $2.79 on Aliexpress so could be a little off. 
Really ? 
Looks big like some proffesional
The Chinese have perfected poop polishing.
