I received one of these as a gift. I normally use the vintage Radio Shack Micronta pocket meter because it's extremely accurate, but it does not read current. (Otherwise I love it, especially the continuity buzzer, I have several for backups.)
Is this device just a junky meter? I am trying to read milliamps, for example an LED, 330 ohm resistor, 5v power supply, meter in series.
In the 5A setting it reads .01 amps. When I switch to the DCA mode and read any setting - 200m, 20m, etc., it flashes a random number momentarily the a "1" on the left, which the manual says means out of range.
Should I invest in yet another multimeter to read small currents with a little more accuracy? Recommendations for someone who's already spent too much on his hobby?
What I'm concerned about is throwing more moolah at a device only to find out it has the same level of inaccuracy.
Thank you, first thing I checked was the fuse (visual and continuity check, not blown) and just checked the battery, 9.04 V and on the battery tester goes on the high side of green.
What current draw should I expect for an LED/resistor 5vDC as described? Seems hinky to me, maybe I got a defective one.
Correct, V-ohm-mA for the DCA range. Here's the thing though, when I leave the plug in the 5ADC outlet and try the DCA range it gives the exact same behavior.
A random number flashes momentarily and then "1" on the left for 200m, 20m, 2000 u and 200 u.
I just added another LED to the circuit and it now reads .02 at the 5A plug/setting. Doesn't seem accurate enough, although 20 ma sounds close to correct.
Just the resistor? Same effect, at 5A setting 0.01, DCA setting all reads "1" (out of range.)
Agreed, but the settings for DCA should get closer, correct? As mentioned above if I leave it in the 5A plug and switch to 200m it now reads .1 instead of .01 which makes sense but with the extra digit available it should read .15 as you mentioned. (CORRECTION, .15 is 150ma, not 15ma . . . )
Added:
Yes those all work fairly accurately, I've tested them against the Micronta. It came NIB, so I'm thinking it's a bum unit.
I don't have that specific DMM but that's where I would connect my wires (in series in the circuit) for the DCA measurement and make sure it's set at the 200m position (assuming it means 200mA)
Totally blowing it on forum grammar here, sorry. At the 200m setting I guess there's still not enough digits to display 15 ma. My point was that the decimal point moves one place which makes sense.
1 resistor at 5A plug and setting displays 0.02
1 resistor and LED at 5A plug and setting reads 0.01
1 resistor at v - ohm - mA plug, any range in the DCA section reads out of range.
1 resistor and LED at v - ohm mA plug, any range in the DCA section reads out of range.
I'll stop there to avoid mangling the description further.
Thanks for your assistance @J-M-L, @jremington, and for confirming my thoughts, this tester is not accurate enough for small current. It makes sense it's perfect for automotive and household use.
I did manage to test it in my current project on the 5A setting and read .37 and .15 (370ma and 150ma) in the two circuits of the project, so it's close enough for today.
The Etekcity looks a little cheap to me, but if it does the job . . . Been soaking my head with multimeter reviews, apparently the Mastech has LED's that light up when you set the function that tell you "I need a probe inserted here."
I went with the Mastech MS8268, doing some initial testing and so far I really like it. It's no Fluke and a little more expensive (under $50) but it's far more accurate than the Cent Tech. That one goes in the garage for my automotive stuff.
Some things I like:
Top of the list, lighted terminals for the mode. In selection of a mode, LED's light up at the terminals to tell you to plug in a lead here. The lights go out when inserted - first try I wasn't getting a measurement, figured out the leads weren't all the way in (they're a little tight.) If you switch modes without moving the leads, the correct LED's blink telling you to move the leads. This may seem like a feature only useful to newbs, but I think it's pretty cool and wonder why all DMM's don't have it.
Autoranging, but you can manually select a range for most readings.
Accurate enough, which is why I bought it I just did a test of a single DFplayer using the breadboard PS and was able to read .01 A at idle, .02 when playing in 10A mode. In mA mode, I'm reading 13.72 ma and 25.69 - 26.78 mA. It also has a µA function.
Relative measurement: doesn't seem all that useful but you can take a measurement in any function, hit "Rel" and test the next points, it will show you the difference. No maths.
Crisp display, backlight, but the backlight shuts off after 5 seconds, I don't think you can set it to stay on which is probably best for battery life.
Comes with a multi-function socket that plugs into hFE and com terminals for transistor and supposedly capacitor measurement.
Audible alarm and continuity check (look at the circuit, not the meter LOL)
In reading the manual it has lots of circuit protection stuff and a fuse so a newb like me doesn't blow it up.
Kickstand so I don't have to put the meter right under where I'm working to read it. I'm sure most of them do, just little things I like.
Don't like so much:
The leads are a bit heavy and "Horsey." They come with protective tips that only expose the very fine tip but they can be pulled off exposing a 1/2" lead. I was expecting a way to easily attach wire hook clips, maybe I just need an alternate set of leads.
Does not come with manual. It has a quick setup cheat sheet. If you're interested in this model it's here.
A bit bigger than I expected (yes I saw the specs, it didn't register.) Not really a problem, just wish it was smaller.
Other stuff:
Made in China, but these days what isn't?
It takes 3 AAA batteries, unlike most DMM's that take the typical 9V brick.
I know capacitor measurement is mostly unreliable but in capacitor mode it seems pretty close. You're supposed to be able to use the multi-function socket for caps too but having some issues getting it to work (readings don't agree with capacitance mode.)Edit: it's not in the manual but you have to move the multi socket to the com and cap ports, major facepalm for me LOL
Hold key freezes the screen at the current reading, hold again clears it. Not sure how useful this will be.
Overall I like it, way better than what I had and for under $50 it's a decent meter.
