Correct position for decoupling Caps soldered to DC Motor

Hey i justed wanted to doublecheck if the positions of the caps i drawed in the picture of my DC motor are correct. Im suffering from motor noise an the problem(DC Motor affects AS5600 Readings -> electronic noise?) remains unsolved.

Thanks in advance

Then the supply lines deserve noise filters, not only capacitors.

How do you plan on connecting the wires to the motor shell?
Will the shell be conneced to an earth ground?

The capacitors must be connected to the motor body at one point (petal) and the ground wire must be connected from this point

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the supply already has 0.1 uF and 47 uF at the beginning between itself and the motor driver. A Schematic of the current build can be found in the link to my main question. Should i add another 0.1uF directly to driver VIN and GND?

  • Your Pololu driver will have kickback circuitry on the motor outputs.
  • If you have a spare driver, try it.
  • Avoid placing capacitors across the motor driver outputs as this can cause driver damage.
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Soldering it like shown here :slight_smile:
solder_caps.pdf (298.8 KB)

See this tutorial for motor cap placement:

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Soldering it like shown here :slight_smile: @jim-p
solder_caps.pdf (298.8 KB)

Ok thanks good to know! @LarryD

I read this before but im still confused on point 4 @jremington. Does "
Place decoupling capacitors (also known as “bypass capacitors”) across power and ground near any electronics that you want to isolate from noise."
means that i should add decoupling between the GND Star and my Arduino aswell as between the Arduino and the SDA/SCL lines?(the AS5600 board im using has already decoupling caps i think on the chip so should i add two more on the other side?)

Ok so i solder the three caps as shown AND solder a wire from the motor body to my GND starpoint?

@hrulian A well designed Arduino board already has decoupling caps at all the required places.

AND solder a wire from the motor body to my GND starpoint?

That may help in extreme cases, but proper wiring layout is also important. Long wires act as radiators of radio frequency noise.

  • Having to go to a different tread is a bad idea, post pertinent information here.

  • How is the Due powered ?

  • You can try 470uF on the motor power supply from fore mentioned 47uF.

  • Does the Pololu work with 3V3 inputs ?

  • Keep all motor power wires away from signal wires.

  • Try a 5v Arduino. :thinking:

Well your motor does not look like that one and there is no way you can solder the caps to the shell without a 500W soldering iron.

All you can do is place one across the brushes but you still should have the shell grounded.

This is the current schematic and setup. I did not wanted to pollute this forum even more with data;)
-first of all i switched already to a arduino mega2560
-should i change the 47uF to 470uF or add it parallel? And there is already a 1000uF on the motor driver between Vin and Gnd as suggested by Pololu
-Yes the Pololu G2 works with both 3.3 and 5V.
-im still wondering if im twisting the correct wires together as i questioned on the other forum post
-Sorry for the confusion i thought it would be smarter to open a second post to seperate the topics...

Yes i think i will ground the shell tomorrow and place one cap across the brushes because i dont think that i have a 500W soldering iron:D

Use your Ohmmeter to check the resistance between the motor armature shaft and the motor frame. The resistance should be quite low, otherwise the armature shaft is conducting the noise to the outside world. What type of bearings does the motor use? They should provide a low resistance between the moving part and the motor frame.

Wait, are you using PWM to conrol the motor speed?

Yes why?

Why does your picture show everything is made of plastic, including the motor shell?

Motor case is made out of steel, the whole mount around is 3d printed