@jimhard2learn
In the diagram that you claim came from Seeed studio, the connection to Vcc is not necessary and the connections to the relay are reversed. If you make those corrections, it will work.
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This is why my plan was to make a couple of small pcb's that are isolated and fused so if something happens, it will be isolated. I That is also why i want it to keep everything in the 5 volt area and only use the heating and pump on the 230v. The rest will be LED's and electronics runing on 5 volt.
I will be searching on the online electronic suppliers you mentioned.
The online espresso parts shops sell the SSR's at around 50$ and i need 3 of them.
Thanks for the info and heads up.
If you could ditch the PID control and go for ON/OFF control with hysteresis, you could make life simpler.
There are "silent" relays available.
Things like tea urns just use simple thermostats.
Do you really need PID control for a coffee machine?
The post I mentioned above was also PV related, fake Fotek failure though.
There are some items, I would not buy from Amzn/Ae like some Tuya smart relays from unknown manufacturers (with fake certificates) and solid state relays/switches especially if they are encapsulated, non inspectable.
I know I'm silly, because even bad USB-charger could start a fire in my house... It's kind of easier to accept and deal with low quality items than fake items.
Espresso machines use pressurestat for steam boiler and a thermostat for the brew boiler.
But the temperature fluctuation is effecting the end result.
If you want a more stable and consisted result, you need a PID.
More control and stability plus less power consumption.
PID on espresso machines is like the cruise controll in cars, or autopilot in boats.
Some still use/prefer the old fashioned windvane(in boats) thermostats/pressurestats in espresso machines, normal playing with your foot on brakes instead of ABS, centrifugal governor instead of speed sensor/hall/tachometer . Its the same as using an old school thermometer with liquid rather than NTC.
So while thermostats have the simplicity and proved them selves for many decades now,which we can not deny or be thankful for that, but when you want to raise the effectiveness of your curent project weather it is car/boat/espresso machine etc, then you need to start fiddling with PIDs/cruisecontrolls/autopilots etc....
Absolutely.
The cost of repairs far outweighs the cost of a well designed bit of kit.
You see invertors advertised for £60.
You put them out of sight and inspection in the roof space where it can be cold and damp.
I've seen roof spaces so well insulated, under ventilated with so much condensation it came through the ceiling
Plus there are all those EV chargers going in and heat pumps as well.
That's a lot of stress on an 80 amp supply dating back to the 198.
And don't get me started on plans to use hydrogen in clapped out iron mains and Mr Tap's plumbing designed for natural gas.
Was using PID controllers for high precision ovens a longer time ago than I care to remember. Gas liquid chromatography.
Totally missed that.
You can't do PID with a relay.
Seems that i was searching on the wrong places.... 17$ for this SSR Schneider Electric isnt a bad deal at all.. nor the 10$ Selec
again thanks for the responces
Not compared to cost of a house, maybe life as well. Even good sleep is worth that. 
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Calm down. Each and every component has a potential to fail and will fail when Murphy commands.
It seems to be important to make safe designs. That means making sure that failing components cannot cause severe or catastrophic results.
Choosing reliable components is wise, however does not substitute safe design.
Simple protective elements like fuses may avoid serious harm.
Definitely. But doesn't help at all if your X amp rated component melts with the load half of the rating/fuse.
Exactly, that is why i am adding fuses and any other component that will fail and stop the spread of the problem and i try to isolate the pcb's instead of 1 big pcb.
and...indeed choosing quality components which thanks to members urging further search, i did found. 
Also look at the fuse holder. It MUST make a strong and complete contact with the fuse ends, if you are using cartridge type fuses. I once had a very expensive pick-and-place machine stop because of a fuse. The technician finally found the almost inaccessible plastic fuse holder had burned, but the fuse was good. Replaced the fuse holder with one from my junk box and all was well.
Agreed. Areas where failing components can cause dangerous high temperatures require over-temperature sensors and shut down devices. No matter how expensive the device in question is.
Cheap devices would only increase the frequency of tripping protection circuits.
At the end, reliable components may pay off. However, they can not prevent malfunctions. They only reduce frequency.
I do not want to highjack this tread, just wanted to give a heads up.
I your light dimmer fails and starts melting the casing, do you have some temp sensor there to take care of it? If the current is within your fuses or your circuit breaker rating, you are out of luck. There's no easy, cheap, failproof, out of the box protection for these situations.
Failure would hurt Schneider a lot, some undefined fake Fotec AE vendor not at all.
Of course, this is forum for sharing opinions, helping, getting help...
How do you put it politely?
Backside about mammary gland.
A 4 dollar SSR is too good to be true.
As is the 50 dollar relay.
Hope you get it sorted
PID with a relay is still not possible.
There's nothing in PID that prevents using relays, it has been used way before transistors became available. Timeframe is different though, making SSR more practical.
Sorry just not possible. You can only do bang-bang with a relay.