Probably, still the WIFI/BT are required for next step. Perhaps the solution would be a larger battery (that is cost and space). I need some measurements, because it is hard for me to calculate the actual power.
The input leakage will be insignificant, increasing the 1K to a higher value will reduce current when the switch is closed, and should not be a critical value because you are only checking the switch during setup. If you can get over your opposition to the internal pullup, activating that in setup, then shutting it off after reading the switch input, would result in the lowest current drain.
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Thanks, that is a good idea. I can always keep the footprint for the external resistor on the PCB, just in case. I will do that.
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