I requested this sample from Molex:
IMAG0766 by jg1996business, on Flickr
IMAG0767 by jg1996business, on Flickr
the datasheet is here:
http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/5035000991_sd.pdf
My question is, how do you solder those little tabs to your board?
Those tabs are meant for a surface mount boards, but you may be able to solder wires to the tabs and wire it yourself
Easiest.... use solder paste on PCB lands and rework station hot air.
As you have noticed the pin spacing is not standard or consistent.
What I do is to mill a PCB to solder it on to, I suspect you haven't got this option.
You can try the dead bug method. Glue it down on it's back and solder wires to it.
Duckie58 has soldered these successfully, I think just with a long tip on the iron, but I'll PM him and he can fill you in.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I actually found these on Mouser that have the tabs on the back which should be a lot easier to solder:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTtmXftMXMXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--
I've been making a part for it in eagle and I think I have all of the spacing of the pads worked out. I reguested a sample from 3M and I will probably print the part out on paper and see if everything lines up before placing it on a board.
I reguested a sample from 3M and I will probably print the part out on paper and see if everything lines up before placing it on a board.
Be careful how you do that. Plotting the part would be accurate. Printing it may not result in a 1/1 scale.
PaulS:
I reguested a sample from 3M and I will probably print the part out on paper and see if everything lines up before placing it on a board.
Be careful how you do that. Plotting the part would be accurate. Printing it may not result in a 1/1 scale.
I'll have to print a known part next to it, something in a dip package, to verify that the scale is correct.
Just draw a 1" line, print it to your printer and measure with a digital caliper and verify it's also 1" inch.
My Inkjet printer do not print to scale exactly. (Canon Pixma Pro 9000mkII)
Laser printers are much more accurate. (I'm using HP laser.)
Just draw a 1" line, print it to your printer and measure with a digital caliper and verify it's also 1" inch.
I'd suggest drawing two - one vertical and one horizontal. The lengths of the printed lines are unlikely to be exactly the same.
I have soldered the microSD connectors in a manner similar to SMD components. Start with a liberal flux application to both the board pads and the connector pads. Wet one corner pad with solder and then position the connector to the board making sure all the internal pins are aligned to their pads. Solder an opposite corner pad to secure the connector, and verify if all the internal pads are still aligned. I then used a 2.5m wide x 0.8mm thick chisel tip inserted through the 'mouth' of the connector laying parallel to the board. Solder is applied to each pad through the access windows on the top of the connector. Dont worry about an excess of solder at this point - just make sure you get each and every pad soldered. Then go back and with a pulling motion drag any excess solder out the front using the soldering iron. Verify there are no bridges and then solder the other corner pads. It takes a few to get the hang, but not impossible.
Duckie
Thanks everyone for all of the great suggestions! And thanks to Duckie58 for the detailed explanation!