Please review this collection of photos:
Included is a drawing I made of my "diy glycol chiller". As you can imagine a copper coil is wrapped around the conical fermenter "diy jacketed fermenter". The copper coil is connected in-line with the submersible pump. The cold portion of the copper line (denoted in blue) is seen going from the diy chiller to fermenter #1, and the warmed line (denoted in red) is seen going from fermenter #1 back to the "diy chiller".
Note that:
1), the submersible pump creates constant flow of glycol-water,
2), flow sensor #1 will be attached in-line to the beginning of the copper coil to detect data of the flow of glycol-water going into the copper coil,
3), temperature sensor #1 will be attached to the beginning of the copper coil to detect temperature data of glycol-water going into the copper coil,
4), flow sensor #2 will be attached to the end of the copper cool in order to provide further flow data after the glycol-water has been warmed,
5), temperature sensor #2 will be attached to the outside and end of the copper coil to provide temperature data of the warmed glycol-water flowing out of the copper coil,
6), temperature #3 will be placed inside the conical fermenter in order to detect the exact temperature of fermenting liquid.
7), finally the motorized valve will respond to all temperature and flow data so the Arduino can control the valve's degree of "openness" depending on the temperature sensor INSIDE the fermenter, thus controlling the flow of glycol-water going into the copper coil wrapped around the conical fermenter. The idea is that the glycol-water entering the copper coil will be able to control stable temperatures for days/weeks at a time. The fewer temperature fluctuations detected by temperature sensor #3 the better.
The second picture attached is a photograph of the wiring I have done so far. It consists of 1 Arduino, 1 flow sensor, 3 temperature probes, and 1 relay. I have code for the flow sensor and it's working correctly. I also have code for the 3 temperature sensors and they're working properly. Finally, I have code for the 4-channel relay and it's working properly: blinking when channel #1 is energized.
The third attached photograph is a close up view consisting of my failed attempt at wiring the 3-wire motorized valve and 12v power supply to the high-voltage side of the 4-channel relay. I've heard I need to wire the valve in a "normally open" configuration. Thank you for time and effort, everyone!