I purchased a WS2812B LED strip to use with an Arduino. However, for some reason, I can't get it to work and it's behaving strangely. When I wire it correctly (5V -> 5V, Data pin -> pin 7, GND -> GND), it simply refuses to turn on. I measured the voltage (5V) and current (70mA) if anyone finds it helpful.
When I disconnect the ground pin, the first LED in the strip lights up blue. I cannot get any other result out of the strip.
My strip has 144 LEDs. I measured the current draw with all LEDs off as I can't seem to get them to turn on (except the first one when ground is not connected). I have tried an external supply consisting of four AA batteries in series but it didn't do much of anything.
Interesting development... I tried connecting my signal wire to my arduino 5V and the 5V wire to my arduino's signal pin, and the first LED turned bright white. However, I can't change the color or which LED lights up at all. I disconnected this because I don't think I should send 5V thru the signal pin.
I then tried the same on an external 6V power supply (LED strip 5V -> Arduino Signal Pin, LED strip signal pin -> External PSU 6V) and it turned bright red instead.
I think this means my arduino may be bad since it seems like I'm able to control the color based on voltage somehow.
The current with the LED off is very different from the current with it on.
4 x 1.5V batteries are also not able to provide the current you need.
I use a 5V 2A source to light my 30 LED strip.
Read the link I posted and you will understand better.
144 x 0.06A = 8.64 Amps. (That's "worst case" with all LEDs at full-brightness white.)
If you don't need the whole strip for your final project, consider cutting a short strip of 5 or 10 for experimentation and project development. You can even leave the short strip connected along with a longer strip as long as you have enough current capacity.
Even if youneed all 144, you might want to buy a shorter strip to "play with".
If you are using batteries, note that the amp-hour rating is an energy or "life" rating but it still can be a reasonable guideline. i.e. A 1A-hr battery can supply 1 Amp for one hour or 100mA for 10 hours, at which point the voltage will be down to 70 or 80 percent of it's rated voltage. An alkaline AA battery is rated for less than 1Ahr so for 8A, forgetaboutit.
Batteries in series increase the voltage but not the current capability.
But there are no 5V batteries so you generally need a higher voltage and a voltage regulator.
Be careful! The datasheet says 3.5 to 5.3V so you might fry the chips in the LED strip with excess voltage.
Adafruit has TONS of information, including power them.
If you are using the full-length of the strip there is a voltage drop across the tiny conductors in the strip. The more LEDs that are on (more current) and the farther down the strip (more resistance in the conductors) the more voltage is lost. The LEDs will dim the farther you get from the power and the LEDs near the far-end may not work at all. Adafruit recommends "injecting" power about every meter.
I think you may need to use the Adafruit Neopixal software/sketch, that what I did, but I was only driving 24-36 5050 leds of the type you mention, so it even worked on batteris...
Never say this again.......It Always Matters
4 things Always
The Code
The Schematic
Explain your goal
Explain the Problem
What you did so far
So
Why are you using the powerjack and USB Together ?
2, Why did you connect to those white Connectore....... CHECK THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROWS ON THE STRIP
Your strip is addressable meaning
it needs power, Correctly Polarized to work
also the protocol demands Data flow in a forward direction