Hey guys! I want to start using microchips themselves instead of buying another board. (Expensive).
So I want to go the cheap route and want to find where I can buy a lot of microcontrollers for cheap. I saw this on DigiKey -
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/microchip-technology/ATMEGA328P-PU/ATMEGA328P-PU-ND/1914589
Is that the correct microcontroller? And I looked it up and it looks like the Arduino Nano uses the same one, correct?
That is the 28 pin DIP chip used on the Uno rev 3, not the Nano. The Nano uses the ATMEGA328P-AU .
You will likely have to burn a bootloader on the chip before you use it.
Both the 328P-PU and 328P-AU have the same die internally, both can be programmed as Uno or Nano.
The DIP part will not have analog inputs A6, A7, accessible.
If you are planning to use them at 16 MHz, then a Programmer will be needed to load the fuses to support that and then put a bootloader on, unless Upload Using Programmer is used to load your sketch and leave the bootload code off.
Someone posted this Pololu Programmer/Serial downloader this morning, looks like a nice tool to support burning fuses/bootloading, and then serial downloads/debugging via Serial.print() later.
I just ordered one to try with 1284P chips.
Yeah I would get that burner but, it looks like it only takes in like 6 pins???
That's all the ICSP uses. That's all that Serial interface uses (well, 5 actually, as CTS (clear to send) is an input back to the device and is just low from the Arduino unless flow control is being used).
What more do you need?
So..... I would just hook up (which pins) to that burner thing from pololu and then hook that into the pc via usb and burn the bootloader to that port and that would be it? Which pins from a Arduino Rev 3 would that be? I can see the Microcontroller PinOut layout but I dont know which ones would connect to which on that burner..?
CrossRoads:
That's all the ICSP uses. That's all that Serial interface uses (well, 5 actually, as CTS (clear to send) is an input back to the device and is just low from the Arduino unless flow control is being used).What more do you need?
Hey man! Actually would this be good?
https://www.tindie.com/products/universalsolder/stand-alone-arduino-boot-loader-programmer/
I just stumbled upon it.
The 2x3 header will connect the 2x3 header to the pins on your board.
If your board has an ICSP header (I put them on mine), that makes it even easier.
VCC to VCC
Gnd to Gnd
RST/ to Reset/
SCK to SCK
MISO to MISO
MOSI to MOSI.
The Pololu unit is $5 less, has free shipping, and offers USB/Serial functionality as well. Better device for surface mount boards where the chip is to be programmed on the board.
If you really wanted Standalone, then I offer a battery powered board that can bootload and install a program from SD card.
Ahh ok, thanks. Ill probably go with the Pololu one. But one more questions about it. You said that you connect (pins) to (pins). But then I saw you had a picture where you were connecting one to a Arduino R3 Board? Do I put the Microcontroller into the board and then take it out after I burn it? Or do I connect the pins specifically to the Microcontroller?
Maybe this Nick Gammon page on making a bare bones Mega328 board will help you. It shows bootloading a Mega328 chip with an Uno.
Do I put the Microcontroller into the board and then take it out after I burn it?
You cannot burn a bootloader over serial port. Must be done via ICSP pins (or direct connection to MOSI, MISO, SCK, reset, Vcc and ground).
Ok, i'll definately take a look at that tutorial!
Where do you think I should order my components for the project? I looked on banggood for the Capacitors, but they take like 2 weeks to arrive..
Should I try to find stuff on amazon? Whenever I go on Digikey everything gets confusing because theres so much more details to get exactly what I want, the other links I
found from videos and crap.
Here is what I was taking the example from.
Snizce,
Are you still talking SMD part (the -AU in your first post) or are you talking a DIP part?
Either way, the part can be your custom PCB and if you have attachment points (individual pins, or a header) you can connect the Programmer to them. If you don't make the pins accessible somehow, that makes connecting to the pins more difficult.
Pololu to your board:
VCC to +5
GND to GND
RST/ to Reset (pin 1 of a DIP, pin 29 on a 32-pin SMD pard)
SCK to SCK (D13)
MISO to MISO (D12)
MOSI to MOSI (D11).
For example, here is a '2560 board I offer where I added a header for the ICSP header and for a USB/Serial adapter.
Why make like hard for yourself?
The trouble with those assortments is that most of the values will never be used. Really the only values that I ever use are 100uF, 10uF, 1uF and 0.1uF. Very seldom do I need any other value. I buy 0.1uF caps like these. .
Thru hole or SMD parts?
I use Digikey or Mouser because they have what I want consistently, no counterfeit parts, and ship the same day if ordered by 8PM I think.
I find Digikey has easier to use filtering.
Parts like capacitors are easy.
Capacitors -> pick ceramic capacitors from the list.
Next page, select Active, value (like 0.1uF), in stock
Next page, pick a package - such as 0805 for SMD part.
Pick a part. 25V or 50V rated part is plenty for 5V logic designs.
If you sort by price, will usually have to down a few pages to get past the prices for reels of parts to where the minimum quantity of 1 start showing up.
If you buy more than 1 or 2 (like 10, 25, 50, varies by part) the prices drop a lot and you can stock up some for your next project.
For example, I bought 1000 of these as every chip on every board gets one, and processor chips need several.
CrossRoads:
Thru hole or SMD parts?
I use Digikey or Mouser because they have what I want consistently, no counterfeit parts, and ship the same day if ordered by 8PM I think.
I find Digikey has easier to use filtering.
Parts like capacitors are easy.
Capacitors -> pick ceramic capacitors from the list.
Next page, select Active, value (like 0.1uF), in stock
Next page, pick a package - such as 0805 for SMD part.
Pick a part. 25V or 50V rated part is plenty for 5V logic designs.If you sort by price, will usually have to down a few pages to get past the prices for reels of parts to where the minimum quantity of 1 start showing up.
If you buy more than 1 or 2 (like 10, 25, 50, varies by part) the prices drop a lot and you can stock up some for your next project.
For example, I bought 1000 of these as every chip on every board gets one, and processor chips need several.
Its Thru hole. I found a couple, like the Capacitors and Crystals 16mHZ but when people say "You need a 16mHZ Crystal" Theres a ton more attributes when you look at the detailed description..
This is the crystal I was looking at.
This is the capacitors I was looking at.
2X
OR
And I cant find any 100nF capacitors. 
Isn't that what I need? I found this video to get a general list of parts.
And then there was also this, I assume for putting the sketch into the microcontroller.
Am I on the right trail?
0.1uF = 100nF
The first crystal looks good, it has very good stability #s:
Frequency Stability ±10ppm
Frequency Tolerance ±10ppm
The 22pF caps are good. I'd use the 2nd one it is physically smaller. The first is 200V rated, that's overkill. It will only see a 5V swing.
The USB/Serial adapter is good. I buy mine from here
https://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=600&filter_name=ft
They got burned a while back with Fake FT232 chips, and now they pay attention to make sure they get genuine parts.
You will need several 0.1uF caps:
Each VCC pin to 5V, and cap to Gnd.
AVCC pin to 5V, and cap to Gnd.
Aref pin to Gnd( (do not connect to 5V)
Reset, 10K to 5V, cap to DTR from the USB/Serial adapter.
You still need a USBISP Programmer to connect to SCK, MISO, MOSI, and Reset to burn the fuses and load the bootload program into memory.
Here you can see an ATMEL AVI ISP MKii with its 2x3 connecter adapted to the 6 pins used on an Atmega1284P, while a USB/Serial adapters is plugged onto an "FTDI header" for power, and serial downloading after bootloading is complete.
CrossRoads:
0.1uF = 100nFThe first crystal looks good, it has very good stability #s:
Frequency Stability ±10ppm
Frequency Tolerance ±10ppmThe 22pF caps are good. I'd use the 2nd one it is physically smaller. The first is 200V rated, that's overkill. It will only see a 5V swing.
The USB/Serial adapter is good. I buy mine from here
https://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=600&filter_name=ft
They got burned a while back with Fake FT232 chips, and now they pay attention to make sure they get genuine parts.You will need several 0.1uF caps:
Each VCC pin to 5V, and cap to Gnd.
AVCC pin to 5V, and cap to Gnd.
Aref pin to Gnd( (do not connect to 5V)
Reset, 10K to 5V, cap to DTR from the USB/Serial adapter.You still need a USBISP Programmer to connect to SCK, MISO, MOSI, and Reset to burn the fuses and load the bootload program into memory.
Here you can see an ATMEL AVI ISP MKii with its 2x3 connecter adapted to the 6 pins used on an Atmega1284P, while a USB/Serial adapters is plugged onto an "FTDI header" for power, and serial downloading after bootloading is complete.
Do you have a opinion you could give me for the USBISp Programmer? And/Or a tutorial on using it haha.
If you look earlier in this post we were talking about this: https://www.pololu.com/product/3172
but I don't know how long or reliable the shipping or product will take/be.
Do you have any advice on getting one? or one you've had experience using?
