no, I have a 6V 2500mah LiPo battery.
I also have a 6V 2000mah that I'm using instead. I'm attaching a picture of it.


no, I have a 6V 2500mah LiPo battery.
I also have a 6V 2000mah that I'm using instead. I'm attaching a picture of it.


codewriter123:
no, I have a 6V 2500mah LiPo battery.
The picture confirms it's NOT a LiPo. Which makes sense as there's no 6V nominal LiPo option. The label says it's NiMH.
5s NiMH is indeed 6V... which makes one of the worst voltages possible for driving an Arduino as it's too high for the 5V pin and too low for the Vin pin. Maybe your best solution is two put two diodes in series (for about 1.2V drop) and connect that to the 5V pin of the Arduino. Close enough, and still safe when the batteries are full (they can get to about 1.25V each).
A 2S Lipo would have been 7.4V nominal and that would have been fine. For future info Lipo stands for Lithium Polymer. What you have, as written on the label, is a Nick Metal Hybride battery normally abbreviated NiMH. It's a completely different battery technology.
Steve
I'm so sorry, I totally mistook both of those. You are right. Thank you.
I will probably only use this to power the dc motors and use an external portable battery to run the arduino. Thank you and I apologize about that, I just noticed that I kept writing LiPo all over, my bad.
OR would a power rail work better?
I ran a series test to test the current through the DC motor (6V NiMH Battery to probes of multimeter in series). The datasheet says stalled @ 6v should give me about 2.4A. I'm only getting about 2.08. Would this be because of heat loss and whatnot?
What is the voltage you measure across the motor terminals when stalled? It's probably less than when freely running. Internal resistance of the battery, wire resistance, contact resistance, switch resistance etc. all come in play.
An alternative for powering the Arduino is to produce 5V using an LDO regulator that can work at <0.5V drop (near fully discharged voltage), or a buck/boost converter. Most buck converters need more than 1V overhead just like linear regulators, hence the buck/boost as it should be more or less impervious to the actual input voltage.
How can I test no load current and no load speed?
Ammeter resp. RPM meter.
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