So i've come to the conclusion I fried my Arduino UNO. Now that I've gotten a little more experience, I thought, maybe I should get a different Arduino. Or even better (possibly), a different microcontroller.
What are you guys's recommendations on this subject? I don't need things like outputs, I can use shift registers.
Arduino's I'm considering: - Nano
I friend my UNO
You likely either pulled >= 40mA from a pin, or shorted a pin to ground, or something like that. Be more careful.
maybe I should get a different Arduino. Or even better
They can all be destroyed in the same ways. More money won't protect it from misuse.
I don't need things like outputs, I can use shift registers.
Bigger Arduinos have more outputs by default, for the most part.
All that aside. I'd recommend getting another UNO unless you have some specifically large project. I use a Mega, but that's because I needed a lot of pins.
[A good read.](http://maybe I should get a different Arduino. Or even better)
mees01234:
I don't need things like outputs, I can use shift registers.
I use a Mega because of the memory. I can't use shift registers, and no amount of shifting will save you if you run out of memory.
Just buy a replacement 328P-PU for the UNO
If you think you need a Mega for SRAM, consider 1284P as this is a DIP chip too and 2X the SRAM!
For times after experimentation and for prototype, the mini Pro, Nano, and other SMT designs are good and less expensive semipermanent use.
The reason the UNO is recommended as a starter Arduino is because the uC is replaceable... Most if us have cremated a few AVRs ... Some more than others.
Ray
the UNO footprint offers the use of shields.
the UNO board offers the female posts to use for quick wiring.
once you have the unit running, your choices are many. if you require a particular shield, then stay with the form factor.
if you can get a board that only needs a few pins, then you can use one of the much lower cost options.
Nick_Pyner:
mees01234:
I don't need things like outputs, I can use shift registers.I use a Mega because of the memory. I can't use shift registers, and no amount of shifting will save you if you run out of memory.
Well you can shift bytes to serial RAM and back. And you can make a 1284-duino with 16K RAM or get one from Crossroads.
I second and third that you may want to look at a dip version of the 1284 boards made by Crossroads
mees01234:
So i've come to the conclusion I fried my Arduino UNO. Now that I've gotten a little more experience, I thought, maybe I should get a different Arduino. Or even better (possibly), a different microcontroller.
What are you guys's recommendations on this subject? I don't need things like outputs, I can use shift registers.Arduino's I'm considering: - Nano
- Micro
- Mega
You maybe fried the 328P chip and not the board itself. In that case you can buy a new 328P, and being a beginner you want to find one with the bootloader on it. That will run you $4 or $5 plus shipping and a little careful work prying the old chip out and inserting the new one. A new empty 328P runs about $2.50 or less. The more you buy, the cheaper they get.
It can't hurt much to have more than one Arduino, especially with some of the new ones out.
You can make your own on a breadboard or PCB or even build right on the chip (not a real good idea).
Here's a complete step by step for 2 different chips:
Arduino on a chip --- O'Baka means a stupid project.
http://make.kosakalab.com/arduino/obaka/project-2/index_en.html
PS -- Rugged Circuits makes the Ruggeduino that can take 12V on the pins.
You can build a FLAT-duino in an hour for under $4: FLAT-duino
These are at the disposable end of the cost curve (like the Chinese pro mini.)
Ray
That's basically it. All you really need is the chip, power, ground and a bypass cap to have a running computer.
I'd go with a socket instead of the protoboard. Want flat headers? Bend the socket pins out and solder headers right to the pins. Solder the cap underneath and glue it to a base after testing. There might be room for a crystal and caps underneath, they should be as close to the chip as possible.
You can even swap chips in and out of the socket, something you can't easily do with a soldered chip.
For me, AVR's were the first to give the term 'stand-alone chips' real meaning.