I agree with most of the content regarding schematic design, although I don't hesitate to break any and every rule in the name of clarity. The single most crucial aspect of schematic design is that it is readable. Everything else is merely a suggestion. Your latest sketch is many times better in this regard. I found the originals difficult to follow, whereas this one is pretty good.
Now my suggestions, mostly with regard to your power supply design --
-
First, add a diode at the power input. This will protect your circuit in case the DC barrel connector's polarity is accidentally reversed.
-
Ditch C1 and C7 in favor of a single large 100uF cap at the power supply input. There's no good reason to put separate bulk caps at each regulator unless they're far apart. As to the larger size, I always prefer a little more capacity when the power supply is capable. (100uF is a bit much for USB powered devices, but a decent wall-wart will have no issue with it.)
-
C2 is OK at 10uF, given the likely current demands on the 5V circuit, but I would use something like a 47uF instead just because you can.
-
C8 should probably be something like 47uF to 100uF, since fans tend to be current hogs at times.
-
In addition to bulk capacitance (the larger electrolytics) it's a good idea to use 0.1uF to 0.33uF ceramic caps on each side of the regulators. This prevents over/under-shoot oscillations. Electrolytics are good for smoothing larger ripples, but can be slower to react to high frequency variations due to higher internal resistance. Ceramic caps are better at this, but get large and expensive at bigger capacities -- so you can use both in parallel.
-
Put a diode in reverse across the regulators (anode on pin 2, cathode on pin 1 -- or in schematic terms, like this: 1 --|<|-- 2). This ensures the input side is ALWAYS higher than the output side, which prevents backwards flow if power is removed from the input, while charged capacitors or other external voltage exist on the output side.
-
I would recommend reconsidering the 19V input entirely. That means you're dropping 14V across the 7805, which will mean lots of heat. You'll have to heatsink that IC, especially if anything draws more than a few mA of current. Is it really necessary to provide regulated 12V DC? If you're only powering fans on the 12V bus, just use a 12V power supply instead, and leave the 7812 out entirely.
-
You should put a 0.1uF ceramic cap between the high side (pin 1/2) of every switch and ground. This prevents "switch bounce", which is a spiky oscillation as the switch contacts intermittently begin (or stop) conducting during button presses. Unless you either use a cap, or sample the input pins multiple times and average the results, you'll likely trigger multiple "presses" every time your press a button, which is enormously frustrating.
-
You're probably already doing this, but just to make sure, you are enabling the internal pull-ups on pins 13, 14, 18, and 19 (the pins connected to switches), right? If not, you'll need to pull them up to Vcc with 10K resistors. Otherwise, when you read those pins without the switch pressed, you'll get random results -- because the pin is floating and has no defined voltage.
As you can tell, in circuit design, you use a lot of 0.1uF ceramic caps. I buy them 25 to 100 at a time for that reason.