hello there, i am new to this and thought i could do this with research and well all i have found is headaches. i am trying to build a airsoft prop that has alot of what i have been finding in one. i thought about this and am getting very confused. the things i would like it to do is as follows
Turn on and activate by key externally and this would "Arm" the system
Use a tilt switch for case lid when it opens it starts the timer of 10 min
They have two options to try and defuse
-Passcode
-Cut wires (5 wires to pick from one will deactivate the others will speed up time or set alarm off)
They have the chance of entering in the passcode first time wrong timer speeds up second time wrong timer speeds up faster and third time wrong sets off the alarm
that part is the easy part i guess but the tricky part is that i would like to us a 1 digital tube I think it is called to show the number of chances left, but would also like to incorporate the wires in to this also that they count for the three trys also. i would like to use a led&key board just to strobe back and forth and the numbers to just scroll the board i have is a TM1638 i also have 4 digital tube that i would like to have the timer on so its bigger the the 1602 lcd. like to have use a few leds for armed, caution and all clear alarm deactivated.
i know that this is a lot of busy work but i want it to be distracting, even if could have a 8x8 flashing as a distraction all good. i am having troubles with the wiring and the coding
What the heck is an "Airsoft Prop"? I was expecting a discussion of a new type of propeller for a drone!
It looks like you are building a bomb ... simulator I hope. Look for a thread called "defuse the bomb". It is several pages long, and goes through another users development of a cutting wires bomb game.
ya keeping this project on a low budget as far as the components are concerned, figure over multiple uses and been thrown around things will get damaged and don't want to sink a ton of money in to it. going to work on the coding but main question when coding can i cut and past other peoples programs together? i understand that i need to reference it to my pins that i will be using, but as far as the string of codes? for example if i take the wire cut and the timer defuse, place them one after another will this work or will i confuse the processes?? i am learning this as i go haven't coded in along while, and was mirror basic at that and thought i would give it a shot again
Paul__B:
Chinese nonsense translation for 7-segment LED display.
As I would expect with your post count, you should already know!
when he said 'digital tube' i was taken back to James Bond in GoldFinger, there in Fort Knox when it still had gold....
the atomic bomb counting down......
alas, his digital tube could be just some LED's that 'chase' slowly, droping one digit off each few seconds....
then chase faster when you make a mistake.
hard to make 0 to 9 seem exciting....... at least when you are just standing around... now have ODD JOB chasing you with that hat...... it get's real exciting real fast.
Spie303:
ya keeping this project on a low budget as far as the components are concerned, figure over multiple uses and been thrown around things will get damaged and don't want to sink a ton of money in to it. going to work on the coding but main question when coding can i cut and past other peoples programs together? i understand that i need to reference it to my pins that i will be using, but as far as the string of codes? for example if i take the wire cut and the timer defuse, place them one after another will this work or will i confuse the processes?? i am learning this as i go haven't coded in along while, and was mirror basic at that and thought i would give it a shot again
absolutely !
get one LED working the way you want
get a horn working the way you want
then make sure you do not use the same pins or the same names
Wait, wait ... are you talking about real nixie tubes, or about LED numbers? I know they are both old, but while LED numbers are kinda cool, nixies are da bomb!
Will my uno be able to handle a 1602 lcd, Tilt switch,that China key&led, the 4 numbers display,the 5 wire cut a matrix keypad and some leds,I'm looking at wiring and it looks like I'm going to run out of pins can I use a bread board or Daisy/ do a master slave setup
here is what i am working with the top one is to count the number of the try's, middle one is to be used as the timer, and the bottom one led&key (china board TM1638) is a filler to make busy work scrolling numbers and leds scrolling side to side
1- Get an LCD backpack. These are little boards that you solder to an LCD (like a 1602) and work with I2C (or was it SPI?) which requires only two wires (plus 5V and GND) as they are serial interfaces instead of parallel. You cut down like 9 pins right there.
2- Remember that analog pins can also be used as digital pins.
3- You WILL want to add more types of games later on, so keep that in mind when you are coding and, to the extent allowed, when deciding how to wire things.
4 - If everything fails, you can use shift registers to "multiply" your inputs. Specially handy for the wires.
1 and 3 go against your low cost idea perhaps, but well, these are just ideas.
Also, there are 7-segments displays with SPI/I2C interfaces to cut down the amount of pins you need, but those really go against the idea of a low cost solution.
1- Get an LCD backpack. These are little boards that you solder to an LCD (like a 1602) and work with I2C (or was it SPI?) which requires only two wires (plus 5V and GND) as they are serial interfaces instead of parallel. You cut down like 9 pins right there.
2- Remember that analog pins can also be used as digital pins.
3- You WILL want to add more types of games later on, so keep that in mind when you are coding and, to the extent allowed, when deciding how to wire things.
4 - If everything fails, you can use shift registers to "multiply" your inputs. Specially handy for the wires.
1 and 3 go against your low cost idea perhaps, but well, these are just ideas.
Also, there are 7-segments displays with SPI/I2C interfaces to cut down the amount of pins you need, but those really go against the idea of a low cost solution.
Okay i see what you are talking about that LCD backpac now, that is something that i will have to pickup, like that it cuts down to 4 wires, i will pick that up tomorrow with a few other pieces that i need
Cosme_Fulanito:
1- Get an LCD backpack. These are little boards that you solder to an LCD (like a 1602) and work with I2C (or was it SPI?) which requires only two wires (plus 5V and GND) as they are serial interfaces instead of parallel. You cut down like 9 pins right there.
How can you "cut down like 9 pins" when the 1602 interface is only 6 pins in the first place (OK, 7 if you include backlight)?
The backpack controls all of the pins, not only the DB pins, but the back light and contrast pins too IIRC.
That, or we are talking about a different LCD board. But as I remember (didn't open the bomb to check) it was 11 pins I needed co control from the Arduino, 2 of them being VCC and GND.
Cosme_Fulanito:
The backpack controls all of the pins, not only the DB pins, but the back light and contrast pins too IIRC.
Yes, but the only pins actually used to control the LCD are Enable, Register Select and four data pins. You may wish to control the backlight as well so at the very most, 7 control pins. The R/~W pin is grounded as there is no reason to read from the module, and the contrast pin is set with a suitable resistor to ground (the "backpack" uses a potentiometer to set and forget).
Vcc and ground are not "controlled" from the Arduino; they do not connect to output pins.
So in the course of designing this project and testing a few codes I've come to a jam. I have to step up to a mega for more I/O's. I'm sure if I had more time I could possibly figure it out more. But have a question on a coding. I'm trying to figure out how to code one 7 segment display to show how many chances are left, it has to read both mistakes on wire cut side and code input side.
