ATMega microcontroller bad?

was having what i suspected were hardware issues, did some digging and found a sketch for a board test. Big thank you to terryking228, by the way!! And i failed, as seen below. My question is, do you think i should just replace the chip or the whole board. Thanks in advance, and if i can do just the chip, is there anywhere i can find in the website that explains the procedure?

Arduino Board Test V1.08
YourDuino.com terry@yourduino.com

--- TEST START ---
TEST 001 - Any stuck pins??
VoltsRead = 0.00 ** STUCK OR LEAKY PIN FAIL **

TEST 002 - Digital Pins Source Current
PIN-3 PIN-4 PIN-5 PIN-6 PIN-7 PIN-8 PIN-9 PIN-10 PIN-11 PIN-12
2.46 2.49 2.49 0.00 2.47 4.01 4.01 4.01 4.02 4.01
-OK- -OK- -OK- FAIL -OK- FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL
TEST 003 - Digital Pins Sink Current
PIN-3 PIN-4 PIN-5 PIN-6 PIN-7 PIN-8 PIN-9 PIN-10 PIN-11 PIN-12
2.50 2.48 2.47 4.95 2.49 0.96 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.96
-OK- -OK- -OK- FAIL -OK- FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL

TEST 004 - Analog Pins Source Current
PIN-1 PIN-2 PIN-3 PIN-4 PIN-5
4.01 4.02 4.03 4.00 4.01
-OK- -OK- -OK- FAIL -OK-
TEST 005 - Analog Pins Sink Current
PIN-1 PIN-2 PIN-3 PIN-4 PIN-5
0.96 0.95 0.94 0.97 0.96
-OK- -OK- -OK- FAIL FAIL

TEST 006 - Analog Pins A0 to A5: A to D (About 2.50 V)
PIN-0 PIN-1 PIN-2 PIN-3 PIN-4 PIN-5
2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50

TEST 007 - Analog Pins A0 to A5: A to D (About 3.33 V)
PIN-0 PIN-1 PIN-2 PIN-3 PIN-4 PIN-5
3.34 3.34 3.34 3.34 3.34 3.34

TEST 008 - Analog Pins A0 to A5: A to D (About 1.66 V)
PIN-0 PIN-1 PIN-2 PIN-3 PIN-4 PIN-5
1.66 1.66 1.66 1.66 1.66 1.66
TEST COMPLETE
!!!!!!!!!! THERE WERE 23 FAILURES !!!!!!!!!!

Did you make the shield for that test?

http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/arduino-testing

I did, and the results have been posted, seems to me it would just be the amtel that needs replaced because I didn't find any bulging caps or scorching on the board itself, timers functions still work. Etc.. but I am far from being an expert. First suspected it when I was unable to get 3 potentiometers to control an RGB. Then, ran a sketch from the starter kit that I had done successfully, and it would do similar behaviors, where an analog input would be read by 2 of the three pins. And handled kind of strangely, where the rgb it was controlling would start rolling into the other colors before it was fully turned, when it was supposed to be controlling only a single diodes supply power. I can verify it was not the sketch also, ran the sketch provided on the website to verify.

There is nothing else connected to those pins so you seem to be on track.

The Uno has an ATmega328P in a dual in-line package (e.g. ATMEGA328P-PU).

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/microchip-technology/ATMEGA328P-PU/ATMEGA328P-PU-ND/1914589

I would get some extra so they are on hand.

A pitfall to watch out for is the ATmega328 in a dual in-line package (e.g. ATMEGA328-PU). It has a different chip ID and the flash uploader (avrdude) checks that before uploading.

The 328p will need a bootloader installed (a good project itself). I like to use an Uno with the ArduinoISP sketch in the IDE examples to install the bootloader. It explains its use in the code, unfortunately, it defaults to pins 10 through 13 so that is a problem for your broken Uno. The In-circuit Serial Programming (ISP) is done by bit bang so you could change the pins if you can find some that work.

I would just get another Uno or clone, and use it as an ISP to fix that broken Uno.

You can buy mega328 chips with a boot loader preinstalled from vendors like Sparkfun or Adafruit. Then you carefully pry the chip from the socket on the Uno and plug in the new chip. A clone Uno is often cheaper than the replacement chip, though.

Some clones however uses TQFP version instead of DIP. If you bought a clone that has TQFP, it's often easier to just replace the whole board. Consider the effort to desolder and remove a small 32-pin chip and solder in new $5 chip with bootloader vs buying a new clone for about $5 shipped.