Bare bones Arduino using FT232RL

Hi, I recently bought a Breakout Board - FT232RL USB to serial so I could connect my bare bones Arduino to the computer. When I plug it into my MacBook Pro laptop, it powers the Arduino fine and the microprocessor runs blink like it’s supposed to, but it’s not showing up as a serial port at all (both in Arduino software and in /dev) so I can’t load it with new programs. I’m using the atmega328 as the processor. Here’s the things I’ve tried:

downloaded drivers from FTDI (installed successfully)
RX and TX both measure +5 volts to ground so I think I got the jumper correct
when I plug a regular Arduino Uno into the computer, the serial port shows up fine

I’m new to this hobby so I could be missing something very obvious. Thanks for any help

Let the board be connected as you shown in the photo and short thr pins 18 and 19 momentarily using a multimeter prod. In short RESET the chip ... and see if it starts showing up correct port in the IDE.

No luck, but thank you very much for the suggestion. I assume it did reset because I saw the Rx and Tx LEDs flash. They flash in the same way when I plug in the usb to the computer.

Try this..

connect DTR# pin(pin no 2) of FT232 to RESET# pin(Pin no 19) of atmega 328

and power up.

Hey my bad... A correction here.

the RESET pin of ATMEGA 328 is PIN NO 1 (its not pin 19)

That didn't fix it either. Good to know about the reset though. Are there better ways to connect an Atmega 328 to the computer? I'm not fixed on this breakout board, it was the first one I chose to try

Amarinf: Hey my bad... A correction here.

the RESET pin of ATMEGA 328 is PIN NO 1 (its not pin 19)

Also that should not be a direct connection by rather through a series 0.1 ufd capacitor.

Oops! I will try that again with the capacitor :)

If its a voltage reg on the top left, try removing the power jumpers and then connecting the FTDI.

Hope this helps…


It's a switching regulator, but good point, it's definitely not needed when powered from the computer. I was so hoping that would do it, but again no luck. Lefty, I don't have a .1 uF cap, closest I have is 10 uF and 10nF (which isn't very close). I'll work on finding one in the meantime. Thanks again for all the help and advice!!

I think the caps near the clock should go to ground. I make out these are tantalum caps, and bad things may happen if you connect them backwards. These need to be ceramic as far as I remember.