Here are some simple rules to keep from buying more Arduinos.
Gil's Crispy Critter Rules, they apply to processor hardware:
Rule #1. A Power Supply the Arduino is NOT!
Rule #2. Never Connect Anything Inductive to an Arduino like a relay coil!
Rule #3 Don't connecting or disconnecting wires with power on.
Rule #4 Do not apply power to any pin unless you know what you are doing.
LaryD's Corollary's
Coro #1 when first starting out, add a 220R resistor in series with both Input and Output pins.
Coro #2 buy a DMM (Digital Multi-meter) to measure voltages, currents and resistance.
Violating these rules tends to make crispy critters out of Arduinos.
Hint: It is best to keep the wires under 25cm/10" for good performance.
Well, that module doesn't have on board driver transistors for the 35mA coils so you will have to supply and install them yourself. MCU output pins cannot supply that current.
The relay board you linked to will do fine in either 5 volt or 12 volt relay coils. I should have mentioned those boards include the flyback diode (1N4002 in my drawing) and a LED to let you know which relays are active (energized). You will still need the transistor driver since the DIO pins on the uC can't supply enough current to drive the relay coils. The 5.0 VDC coils draw 106 mA with a coil resistance of 47 Ohms and the 12 volt coil versions draw 43.6 mA with a coil resistance of 275 Ohms. Either way you need a driver. Also as mentioned you need an independent power supply of 5 volts or 12 volts.
Ron
This is excellent info! Thank you again!
Awesome! Awesome! Awesome! I again thank you for the info and your time.
Honestly did not know a transistor could be or is used as a driver. That's how green I am to the electronics side of things. I like to think I'm relatively intelligent but this is definitely an area that I have much to learn and will.
And when we say an independent power supply, we're talking about a power supply to power the relay module? On the input side?
I would like to use the boats 12 volt electrical system for as much of the power supply as I could?
Ok, so this looks like an all in one for me?
Characteristic Parameters:
Operating voltage
Voltage version 5V 12V 24V
Operating voltage range 4.2~7.5VDC 10~18VDC 19~36VDC
Operating current
(relay all action) 300mA 130mA 70mA
Operating current
(relay all no action) < 1mA
Control signal input
Low level
(Relay no action)
0V ~ 0.5V
High level
(Relay action)
2.5V ~ 24V
High level current 0.1mA@2.5V
0.4mA@5V
1.1mA@12V
2.2mA@24V
Output (relay switch) contact rating
For AC 125/250 VAC, 10Amp
For DC 30VDC, 10Amp
With this, would i use the 12V system on the boat to power the module, "Operating Voltage" and on the "Control signal input", use a digital output "High" to activate? Does that sound accurate?
An Arduino or ESP can drive this product directly from a GPIO output to the "Control Signal Input"?
Yep, here is what you have:
Each relay uses a transistor "Darlington Pair" to drive the relay coils and includes a LED which illuminates when the relay is active and yes the inputs will be a logic high.
Now I see mention of a boat. Anything wireless will need a WiFi network to operate.
Now if you want wireless and there is no WiFi network there are wireless relay cards which use a simple Key Fob
Ron
Is this achieved via something like a can-bus system or some sort of serial communication to a special relay module?
I suggest reading and evaluating the replies given after my post #8...
Ok, so I'm thinking I'm going to need an Arduino Mega to more easily achieve my project.
Let me give the "simple" full function of the processes I'm looking to have it do.
I have momentary push button switches that I would like the Arduino to perform three different output functions / sequences with two add ons?
Circuit Function Type 1: Momentary button pressed, toggle output to -ON- via High output. Then when pressed again, toggle output -OFF-, output Low. Cycle repeats.
Circuit Function Type 2: Momentary button pressed, toggle 2 separate circuits, (Circuit "A" and Circuit "B") to -ON- via High output,
Press button a 2nd time, Circuit "A" output turns off or to Low while Circuit "B" remains in current state.
Press button a 3rd time, Circuit "A" and Circuit "B" are both turned -OFF-, cycle repeats.
Circuit Function Type 3: same as Circuit Function Type 2 but Circuit "A" output to -ON-, 2nd press Circuit "A" current state maintained and Circuit "B" output turned -ON-, 3rd press turns off both Circuit "A" and Circuit "B", cycle repeats.
The final trick I need to perform is to change the RGB Halo "Status" illumination at the primary button via ground / Low. This is where I struggle to find a double pole double throw relay module to fit my needs.
In the quest to minimize parts and cost as well as failure points, or make a custom circuit / PCB, the Arduino Mega gives me plenty of I/O pins to achieve this I feel.
Side Note, I did receive my copy of the Arduino Cookbook. Holy Intimidation! 
OK so we no longer want a phone app to control anything. You really don't need a Mega as an Arduino UNO would do just fine and be more than enough. Just remember using an Uno or Mega you have no wireless capabilities less adding more hardware. You already know the drill as to relay choices and relay current handling ability. 
Ron
So from my best understanding, I need 8 inputs, 8 outputs to control the relays, 8 outputs to activate an LED light when circuit is energized and 8 outputs to activate a different LED light when the circuit is not energized.
Ignoring the wifi for the moment , I'm all ears or how to use technology. But in my basic world of understanding this needs 32 I/O's
The same outputs which drive your 8 relays can have an LED on them so with 8 relays all you need is 8 outputs including LEDs. Your relays are SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw). Each relay has a Com, N/O and N/C contacts. Since you are only using a relay to switch 12 volts and will be using the Com and N/O contacts you can actually use the N/C contacts to run a LED telling you the relay is not energized so all you need is 8 outputs from a uC.. Hell your post #26 shows your choice of relays have a LED telling you the relay is energized, see my post #27 shows the diagram of your chosen board. Eight relays and eight digital out pins is all you need.
If you read the start sections of the electric / electronic forum sections you will see help with buttons.
Ron
So the thing is, according to the relay specs, it states that it needs to switch High to energize the relays. The buttons I have need to be turned on with ground, or Low for the RGB halo to light. They share COM (+).
I was hoping to energize a relay module with low so I could use the controller output to light up the buttons when relay was being energized Then when the circuit is off I need a ground or low triggered to a different LED on the button.
My relays unfortunately need to switch 12 volt positive or high from the COM to N/O. So unfortunately I can't use the NC to energize one of the LEDs when the circuit is not active because it needs to go to ground or low to light it. Uggg
Unless I'm still missing something here.
To specify on the buttons again they have 3 LED's. RGB. They all share common positive and are individually lit up when ground is applied to one of 3 appropriate ground terminals. I want the red LED to light up when the circuit is energized and then the green LED to light up when it is not energized, but from my understanding they need ground triggers. DPDT was clutch to achieve this, but I couldn't find any DPDT relay modules, 10 amp capacity or more, that could be controlled from the board directly without another product in between...
So this is why using multiple outputs on the mega seems to fit???
Search for RemoteXY.
I had no idea as to the buttons and tri color LEDs. What you describe is a Common Anode LED where any of three Cathodes can go to ground. Do you have a link to the buttons you plan to use? Normally energizing a relay is just a matter of code. We apply a logic low or logic high to energize the relay and that is simple code. Give me a link to the buttons you have in mind.
Ron
Hi Ron, and thank you for staying in touch.
The best I can do is give you a YouTube link I believe.
It kind of shows the buttons in question from the terminal standpoint and shows how to be wired.
Hope this helps.
I went to their website which was a waste of time. All I wanted was some button data and button diagrams. You want what they call "Latching Buttons". The narration sucks but at least a few diagrams. At one point they use a remote for button On/Off but focus more on the color so I have no idea what was exactly going on. Rather than a well developed data sheet they made a video. I don't know what to tell you or suggest at this point. 
Ron
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