Dagu Rover 5 chassis robot demo

Might I ask what the delay is in there for? It was my understanding the objective of the code was for it to fw/backward for 10 sec and turn for 1.2 sec.

Thank you for your patience with answering my questions.

EDIT** I am assuming that is the delay between direction changes?

By the way, I changed that value to 2 seconds, and it pulses in a direction for about .5 seconds then waits 2 seconds before changing directions to pulse again. I will try to get a vid.

thanks.

Er, maybe I was wrong. My mind is still seething over the lengthy delays trying to ban spammers on the forum. :wink:

This code here:

  // check current drain
  while (millis () - start < time_to_go)
    {
    if (analogRead (0) > 325)  // > 1.46 amps
      break;    
    }

That makes it stop if the current drain exceeds 1.46 amps. You might want to tweak that a bit. Perhaps your motors are drawing more than mine did. So if you make it higher, it will draw more current before stopping.

I am assuming that is the delay between direction changes?

Yes.

So far, I have to crank up that current drain value beyond 600, and even still, it will cut out when going in half the directions.. :~

Is there something potentially very wrong with my setup to cause that?

Hard to say. Try commenting out the check, and testing. Be ready to hit the power switch if things start smoking. :)

hi, dagu photo.png, could you please tell me why you need power from arduino board icsp?

and why don't you use the jumpers of motors on the chassis?

thanks

tigerdorr: hi, dagu photo.png, could you please tell me why you need power from arduino board icsp?

Those two wires (red and black) are just +5V and Gnd, which were available on the ICSP pins. Since they are pins on both ends it was easy to wire-wrap them.

tigerdorr: and why don't you use the jumpers of motors on the chassis?

What jumpers are you referring to?

hi, thanks your reply.

abt q1, can i get V5 from other pin of arduino board? it's hard to find f/f jumper wire, where did you get it?

q2, i saw about 5-6 female pin jumper out of the chassis motor, where there should be connected to?

tigerdorr: abt q1, can i get V5 from other pin of arduino board?

Yes, wherever you want to.

it's hard to find f/f jumper wire, where did you get it?

http://www.adafruit.com/products/266

q2, i saw about 5-6 female pin jumper out of the chassis motor, where there should be connected to?

4 wires are the encoder on the motor, the other 2 drive the motor. See close-up photo:

Of course there is another set for the other wheel.

The red and black wire you see going across the board is just for the voltage readout I stuck on the front, so I could see when the LiPo battery was going flat:

hi my rover works now, thanks a lot

and in Arduino_forum_779785.jpg

why the jumpers come from rover motor are single but the heads on controller board are two rows.

Do you mean the encoder?

The first row (where I have the wires) are from the encoder on the motor. The other row is for connecting to the Arduino (eg. to an interrupt pin). I wasn't using that personally so you could omit them, ignore them, or tape them up somewhere.

I think the circuit just "ors" the two encoder outputs together so you can have a single interrupt pin (labelled INT on the board) which you connect to an interrupt (eg. D2/ D3) and then to see which way it is turning (if you care about that) connect ENC1 and ENC2 to some other pins.

I didn't care about the encoder as I was driving "visually", so I didn't need it to know exactly how much the wheels had turned.

i am trying to connect a push sensor or a IR sensor on the rover. so it can avoid the obstacles.

do you know where i can find some example codes?

I got mine here:

http://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/554

I don’t know if they have replacement tracks … you could ask.

Mine tend to slip off, and I find it impossible to adjust the track height. Maybe I’m not doing it right.

No idea, sorry.

[quote author=Nick Gammon link=topic=82618.msg812149#msg812149 date=1338497566]

Mine tend to slip off, and I find it impossible to adjust the track height. Maybe I'm not doing it right.

[/quote]

I just got my Rover 5 and had pulled the retaining bracket (metal L-brac with two screws inside the chassis) to pull the appendage out to set the height. I think it was an EE solution to a ME problem ;) Unfortunately, if you have track slippage with the low profile mode, adjusting the height up will make it worse.

I have a composite eye (lots of IR) coming in next week to see how the Dagu demo will work. The DFR Romeo will be interesting in running the R5 Motor/Encoder Board (4motors/4encoders), (2) servos and (6) tactile buttons. I think there might be a 74HC595 chip and a dev board in there.

Thanks to Nick for opening this thread. I look forward to any further developments to this platform.

-George

Hello! i have a problem, when logic power on Dagu is NOT powered from Arduino, motors rotate easily in both directions, but when i connect logic power (5V) from Arduino, motors begin to rotate harder in one particular direction. Firstly i connected logic from 5V Arduino pin which is near analog pins, then i tried to connect from ICSP pins, same result. Then I've done everything exactly like you to exclude my mistakes, but it doesn't work.

P.S. Moreover i bought two Arduinos and two Dagus, I thought i fired smth, but motors bahaves on both. P.P.S Everything works fine with Pololu motor driver shield and Arduino - motors rotate easily in both directons.

Not sure what to suggest. Wiring problem? Faulty motor? Faulty motor board?

Everything works fine with Pololu motor driver shield and Arduino - motors rotate easily in both directons.

So, not a problem?

Yes, with Pololu Shield works fine. I wondered if there was some secret may be with Dagu, but if you don't know the exact reason, it can be anything) Nevertheless thank you for the reply and for your project!

Hi,

I’m wondering that what will happen when I use only a simple L298 ic for driving the Rover 5? Or in other words: Is it possible to drive it like this?

-Ali

I don't see why not. The board shown does other stuff like encoder inputs and current detection. A simple driver (suitable for the motors) should be all you need.