I'm going to use the following on my model railway DC Jack Socket Power Supply Module 5.5x 2.1mm. Being new to this, do I solder my output wires directly onto the four prongs or can I attach a green screw down unit to insert my output wires into. Hope this makes sense.
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Direct soldering is an option; it might be prone to breaking if it is moved a lot.
If you want to use screw terminals I would replace the pins (shown in the image) by a screw terminal block like e.g. Screw Terminal 2.54mm 4-Pos (5-Pack) - ProtoSupplies.
Is there a reason that you don't opt for something like Pololu - DC Barrel Jack to 2-Pin Terminal Block Adapter?
Note:
Just examples.
don't the boards already have power connectors; either DIN or screw terminals?
what board are you planning on using this with
Ideally I would like a board without the fuses.
Then you can just solder a wire across the holder and leave the fuse out. If you want it to make it smaller, you can take a brass brush and brush really hard until the copper lanes are exposed. If so, you can solder on them directly.
Yeah, successfully removing the male headers and cleaning out the through holes might be a bigger challenge than you want to attempt.
Why?
The fuses are there to prevent "something worse" than a blown fuse it there is a short, or otherwise excess current.
If the fuse is rated properly it should hurt anything and it shouldn't blow until there's a problem. You might want "slow-blow" fuses that won't blow instantly with a slight short-term overload.
It may not be necessary because the power supply should have it's own protection. But sometimes it's an inaccessible internal fuse, or or thermal fuse that blows after the power supply has overheated and been permanently damaged.
If you don't need to frequently disconnect, how about getting rid the board & connectors and just use wire nuts? Or some inline crimp connectors crimp connectors if you want a permanent connection? (You'd need a crimp tool). Or WAGO connectors are easy to use.
Fuses seem ridiculous considering the inevitablility of shorts on a model RR,
DC throttles can usually tolerate a short. i don't know of any DCC boosters that don't automatically shutdown if there's a shorts.
my PowerCab PCP has a small jack with screw terminals. The Digitrak boosters at the club have a removable connector with screw terminals.
the bus gets connected to the throttle or booster and feeders soldered to the bus and track
why do you need all those connectors? why don't the track wires go directly to your throttle or booster? If the wires don't reach, why not add extensions from the track bus using wire nuts?
Why is a good question. There is nothing wrong with them, they work. I just wanted to explore something different.
Its a double track layout both are powered independently from the transformer hence the two connections.
What you don't see is that the leads from both outputs go to switches( I've used point levers) so that I can switch power on or off to both tracks. This is why I haven't gone directly from the track to the power jack.
Thanks for all your input. I think I will leave everything as it is. The saying if its not broken why fix it applies. If you want to view my layout here's the link
https://youtube.com/@peterbrown-f6e?si=o6BB2tLegFwDxa5f
connect the red/black wires with wire nuts instead of going thru those 2 connectors
isn't this thread about changing the connections using the din board
The fuses are an overkill. I've never had a blown fuse on my layout.
I think this forum is not for me. I'm going to delete my account. 
try the Model Railroad Hobbyist Forum
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