Hey guys.
So I have been playin around with my arduino for a while now and I wanted to get into soldering. So I went to my local store and bought a soldering iron and good solder(what I thought). But now when I am trying to solder the solder won't melt even though the iron is heated up. I think I bought the wrong type of solder. The code on it is ER70s-6. Can anyone on here help me with my problem. I am really new to this stuff. Thank you.
Hi,
Yes it's wrong...
That is not Solder, it's a welding rod.
You need something like "60/40 solder with flux".. KESTER44 is my favorite version.
Yes you did.
Using the code number you provided turns up the result that it's a MIG welding wire
You need something with "60/40 flux cored" in the description
Edit : two replies collided with the same response
isakpro:
Hey guys.
So I have been playin around with my arduino for a while now and I wanted to get into soldering. So I went to my local store and bought a soldering iron and good solder(what I thought). But now when I am trying to solder the solder won't melt even though the iron is heated up. I think I bought the wrong type of solder. The code on it is ER70s-6. Can anyone on here help me with my problem. I am really new to this stuff. Thank you.
When I Googled "ER70s-6" it came up "mild steel welding wire". So, no, your soldering iron won't melt it.
Did you ask for wire solder when you bought it? Did the package actually say "solder" on it? Take it back and get real solder that says "solder" on the package. And don't get solder for plumbing use.
Paul
When I Google "ER70s-6" I get a bunch of hits on MIG Welding Wire -- which definitely is the wrong stuff 
Now the right stuff [pun sorta intended ] depends on how conscientious you want to be:
Conscientious:
Lead Free [Pb Free] solder -- I recommend SAC [Tin-Silver-Copper]. It's more expensive, but it works better than the SnCu [Just Tin and Copper, without the Silver]. But, Lead Free can be more challenging than Leaded solder. I had trouble with it at first, and when I switched over, I had decades of soldering experience under my belt. But, I got used to it, and now I rarely have trouble.
I've had good luck with this solder, from All Electronics [but then, I use a temperature controlled soldering iron]: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/ts-11/lead-free-solder-96.5-tin-0.5-copper/1.html
Not Conscientious:
I hate to say it (because I would like for there to be less lead in the environment) but for the beginner, the Leaded solders are easier. The usual, hobbyist blend is: 60-40 [60% Lead and 40% Tin] Solder for electronics.
This is good "newbie" solder: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/ts-15/60/40-solder-tube-dispenser/1.html
Either way:
Make sure it's solder for electronics, and even better if it says "Suitable for Hand Soldering", with a "Rosin Core", and that it's non-cleanup flux (or no-clean). Avoid "Water Soluble" or "Water Washable" or "Water Cleanable" flux. The Water Cleanable [et al] flux is made of citric acid and if you don't get it all cleaned off, it will etch your solder joints and traces and can lead to eventual circuit failure. Also, because you are washing your electronics with water, it's imperative that it ALL dries off before you EVER apply power! When I used to use this kind of flux, I would put the washed boards out in the sun for an hour, to make sure they got truly dry!
No Clean flux is a type of flux that can be left on the board because it is nonconductive [unless you're dealing with very high DC voltages -- like back in the days of CRT Color TVs]. Sometimes I leave it on the board, but often I will clean it off with Ethanol [also known as Denatured Alcohol]. But, I only do this when the board is populated with what I suppose could be called standard parts [like resistors, capacitors, transistors, ICs -- parts made from ceramic, metal and/or that hard plastic resin]. But probably good to avoid getting it on acrylic and styrene plastics. For instance, those relays with the clear plastic covers, or anything to do with LCDs and/or display screens. Not sure about conductive plastic potentiometers -- probably should avoid all potentiometers, switches, encoders, and any thing with an enclosure that could trap the alcohol inside. Clean the board off before installing stuff like that.
Isopropanol (i.e Isopropyl Alcohol or Rubbing Alcohol) at 91% also works. It doesn't dissolve flux as quickly, but it's, apparently, safer on certain plastics. Always use it in a well ventilated area -- not good to breathe the fumes too much. Also, wise to avoid getting it on parts with enclosures, as stated above.
I soak the board in a bath of alcohol [either one] for about 30 minutes to an hour, then I use a soft toothbrush to take off any remaining residue or undissolved flux.
Absolutely avoid "Acid Flux"!! This is a flux used by plumbers on copper pipe -- it will eat the snot out of your electronics, basically destroying the whole lot!
Everyone else, feel free to chime in, correct me, supply anything I left out, etc.
...and, probably, way over the head of the OP [no offense], but I found this "Ask The Experts" conversation regarding "No-Clean" residue left behind after a "cleaning" process. And, I have, in fact, seen the white residue they may, or may not be referring to In fact, I used to see this, occasionally, with the Water-Clean flux. And, I learned the hard way, that it was left over citric acid that caused a board to fail, due to etching. But, later, when I started using No-Clean Lead Free solder, I again saw this similar looking white residue. But, this time, it didn't seem to be corrosive. So, same appearance, but different cause...maybe?
If you want lead-free solder be sure to get the stuff with silver in it, not just tin and copper. Without
silver its not a eutectic which makes it impossible to rework. Usually its 4% Ag, 0.8% Cu or so.
An alloy that's not eutectic becomes pasty rather than solidifying uniformly, basically hard to work with.
In solder, for electronics, not automotive/plumbing/welding etc., there are a few questions to answer, and the answers are subjective. The following is a short dichotomy.
Leaded or Lead-Free?
- leaded solder has superior wetting properties and melts at a lower temperature, making it easier to work with and safer on the components, potentially, easier for beginners, but it's not RoHS compliant, unsafe for humans and other animals, and damaging to the environment.
- Lead-Free is an evolving thing and there are a number of alloy blends that try to achieve the properties of leaded solder while mitigating the impact on life and environment. In this category, my preference is 99.3% Tin .7% copper.
Solder Diameter (and spool size)?
Smaller diameters are easier for smaller components and larger diameters are easier for larger components. For general electronics use, 1 mm solder is a good starting point. Spool size is in grams or pounds, so smaller diameter means longer spool for the same weight. Diameters are also measured in wire gauge, AWG. Get a little until you find the right solder for you, then buy a lot of it.
Rosin or No-Clean Flux Core? (not acid flux for plumbing as has already been said)
- Rosin Core is good for beginners as it's easier to work with, but it's messy and also more harmful to the environment.
- Water-based fluxes are evolving, much like lead-free solder, and there's a few solutions that attempt to match the properties of rosin activated core, while being less harmful on the environment. My preference is rosin core, but feel free to play here until you find what you like.
Soldering irons come in a variety also, from pocket "as seen on TV" junk, "compact" pen-style irons, "base" units, even butane or burner-based units. The pen-style ones, like the XY-258 is an ok place to start, but many spring for a good base unit, like the FX-888D.
unsafe for humans and other animals,
Absolute crap. Lead in solder is dangerous to no one except stupid politicians.
leaded solder has superior wetting properties and melts at a lower temperature, making it easier to work with and safer on the components, potentially, easier for beginners, but it's not RoHS compliant, unsafe for humans and other animals, and damaging to the environment.
ROHS is meant to keep the large amounts of lead that were in the millions of circuit boards made every year OUT of landfills and the environment. Small quantity prototyping does not need ROHS for any rational reason.
When you do more than a few minutes of soldering, you should at least use a small sideways-blowing fan to keep fumes out of your face and lungs (mostly from flux, little lead)..
They'll have to pry my Kester44 out of my cold, 99 year old hands...
...see, I can be Grumpy too ...
terryking228:
ROHS is meant to keep the large amounts of lead that were in the millions of circuit boards made every year OUT of landfills and the environment. Small quantity prototyping does not need ROHS for any rational reason.When you do more than a few minutes of soldering, you should at least use a small sideways-blowing fan to keep fumes out of your face and lungs (mostly from flux, little lead)..
They'll have to pry my Kester44 out of my cold, 99 year old hands...
...see, I can be Grumpy too ...
All valid points. RoHS is not anything important to the electronics hobbyist. Lead soldering is not dangerous to the hobbyist. Just don't eat the lead balls from under your finger nails.
Perehama:
All valid points. RoHS is not anything important to the electronics hobbyist. Lead soldering is not dangerous to the hobbyist. Just don't eat the lead balls from under your finger nails.
I disagree. All components are now lead free. Many do not solder well with lead based solder paste. Especially if the customer purchases them from unknown sources.
Paul
ROHS is meant to keep the large amounts of lead that were in the millions of circuit boards made every year OUT of landfills and the environment
No, that is not true. That is what the WEEE directive is designed to do.
The RoSH directive is designed to ban five substances, one of which is lead in a lot but not all electronic devices. It concentrates on the minute amounts of lead and totally ignores the tons and tons of led in automobile batteries. It is also designed to penalise small companies by making accumulate R&D redundant, and help large companies by producing electronic devices that fail more often.
Both these directives are based on the “precautionary principle” which is basically “we have no scientific evedance, but is sounds bad so let’s ban it”.
The form lead is in when it is in solder in an electronic device can not be absorbed into the body and poses no health hazard, even if you were to eat it.
The one test that has been done comparing lead free electronic waste and lead free waste in land fill, resulted in slightly more lead being found in the lead free waste. The conclusion was that as the results were close then within the limits of the experiment the the lead waste could possible have more lead in it. That is how stupid this is as a law, that only affects the the EU.
Some categories of electronic devices are exempt from RoSH, like military, medical and building infrastructure. If you have a desk mounting fan that is subject to RoSH, but an identical fan with a wall mounting bracket is exempted. That cheery fact came from the official RoSH regulations.
I had to read them all as part of a job I once had.
I suspect the op is a troll.
Someone explain to me why lead based for hobby use will kill polar bears, please.
Someone explain to me why lead based for hobby use will kill polar bears, please.
We can't... because it won't.
Exactly
isakpro:
Hey guys.
So I have been playin around with my arduino for a while now and I wanted to get into soldering. So I went to my local store and bought a soldering iron and good solder(what I thought). But now when I am trying to solder the solder won't melt even though the iron is heated up. I think I bought the wrong type of solder. The code on it is ER70s-6. Can anyone on here help me with my problem. I am really new to this stuff. Thank you.
Since you bought that item from the local store, then it makes sense to chase it up with the representative that works at that local store. Eg..... tell them the issue. And if you're new to soldering etc, then ask the rep at the local store what recommedations they have for their local store solder. Otherwise, use 'google' to look up the information on 'ER70s-6'.
I have just bought a couple of reels of solder. After having used 1mm lead free solder for ages, I thought I would try 60/40 in order to try amd improve the quality of my soldering.
So I bought a reel of 0.5mm multicore 60/40, and a real of 0.71 mm 60/40. The 0.5mm is labelled as 5 core ersin flux (which I understand is good for general soldering) but the 0.71mm is labelled as X39 flux. Based on what I can find on the internet, X39 is intended for use on brass. Have I bought something that is inappropriate for general PCB soldering?
johngaitan:
I have just bought a couple of reels of solder. After having used 1mm lead free solder for ages, I thought I would try 60/40 in order to try amd improve the quality of my soldering.So I bought a reel of 0.5mm multicore 60/40, and a real of 0.71 mm 60/40. The 0.5mm is labelled as 5 core ersin flux (which I understand is good for general soldering) but the 0.71mm is labelled as X39 flux. Based on what I can find on the internet, X39 is intended for use on brass. Have I bought something that is inappropriate for general PCB soldering?
Google will find more information about the solder and flux. Both should be fine for electronic equipment soldering.
Paul