Until now I was using this multimeter.
I would like to get a new one as the above is not so stable when using the continuity mode and also seems not to measure capacitance.
Any recommendation for a good multimeter up to 50 USD?
I was looking on those: 1 2 3
What you guys recommend?
I would buy the fluke - good make and should last well
Is there any multimeter that can also measure current ?
Fluke has a good reputation but the low end models are just run of the mill meters these days. The probe sockets being on the bottom edge of the meter would annoy me intensely and they even manage to make them look clumsy in their own photograph
Hi,
Not sure what you mean.
"not so stable when using continuity"?
"seems not to measure capacitance"??
Tom... 
I have one of these for component testing - does caps, resistors , transistors, inductors. Etc . I think the code is around to make one with your Arduino (?)
I wouldn’t bother with looking for capacitance on a multimeter , just buy a good quality multimeter that does volts/amps/resistance.
A good one will last many years .
I have a fluke 77 I’ve had for 15 years , and a recent check showed it still to be in spec .
I also recently bought a cheap eBay one , which lasted a few months .( spot the cheap one )
Clean the probe tips with IPA and they will make better contact. Any dirt/oil from fingers, will make a resistance check unstable.
You receive where you pay for. 50$ is good as startmodel.
TRMS is a pro.
Auto ranging is pro.
Nocurrent measurement? That is a no go.
Usually the continuity beeper is just for quickly checking shorts or direct connections without looking at the display. My Fluke at work is supposed to beep at less than 20 Ohms. If you want a more accurate reading you have to measure resistance but low resistance measurements of a few Ohms are usually not very accurate. ...I have another high-end meter at work that can do 4-wire resistance measurements down to a fraction of an Ohm.
The description says it measures 4-2000uF which isn't much of a range. But most capacitors don't go bad unless they are over-voltaged and then they will probably be shorted and you can check that with the Ohmmeter function, or they might look burned. Electrolytic capacitors can lose capacitance over time but electrolytics are usually used in circuits where the capacitance isn't that critical anyway.
Personally I often find autoranging a nuisance, especially when the value is changing a lot. Mind you, that is a problem with DMMs as a whole.
When using an old fashioned analogue meter with its needle moving over a scale it was easy to see whether the value was rising or falling and roughly at what rate, but a digital display masks this. Some DMMs also have an analogue "bar graph" display to help ameliorate this problem
When considering a DMM just make a list of wants and must haves before shopping. Personally I have used a Fluke 87 for years. Before I retired I did a buy on some HP (Agilent) meters for the department and forget what they were but the test engineers all liked them. So anyway consider features against how much you want to spend ($50.00), ask for opinions as you have done here and make the move.
Ron
I’d second not wanting auto ranging
Half the answer is to buy from a reputable source not the cheapo eBay/al******* type sites .
Have a look at RScomponents “RS pro” series
Lets say I have a 100nF capacitor - I never manage to read this value using my DMM. Not sure why..
I think is that over the years the connection of the battery become loose and most of the time when I turn the dial over the continuity mode then press the FUNC button - it beeping non stop. I need to turn it off and on again sometimes multiple times before is working as it should. This is the main reason I would like to change that multimeter. Over-all I was happy with it.
I have a DMM that isn't autoranging. Never used in more then 10 years. For electronics the most used range is 20V. 2V is less. The next is 20V. Autoranging no problems if you put 230V on it. Do that if the choice meter is in the 2V range and you become smoke. You have only 2 hands to take the probes. No third hand to switch the range knobs.
My current ( ) meter is a cheapie with autoranging but as I am almost always working with a maximum voltage of 12V and mostly need to know the approximate voltage so autoranging brings nothing to the party for me and I would happily settle for manually changing the range when needed
Being old enough to have started with a old fashioned analogue meter with manual range selection I am used to the discipline of starting with a high range and working down until the needle moves through a significant proportion of its arc allowing a value to be read from the meter scale
Of course, your use case may be different to mine and require a different method of working
The description says it 4-2000uF so it can't read nF or pF (if that's true).
With "cheap" meters, try to avoid one that doesn't have a separate connection for current measurements. In current mode, the meter is (almost) a short circuit and if you are accidently in current mode you can potentially fry your circuit or blow the fuse in the meter. A separate connection makes that less-likely.
...About a year ago I upgraded my meter because it couldn't read AC voltage below 1V accurately. I think it had 0.1V resolution on the display, but it wouldn't read that low. (Low DC voltage was no problem.)
Personally, I like auto-ranging.
[quote]he next is 20V. Autoranging no problems if you put 230V on it. Do that if the choice meter is in the 2V range and you become smoke.[/quote]Most DMMs have over-voltage protection up to 600V or so.
An old analog-electro-mechanical meter movement might get damaged.
Something I failed to mention earlier is while today most decent quality DMMs measure true RMS voltage there are still those Average Responding RMS Indicating. Here is an example of what I am getting at.
Both meters are measuring a 120 VAC 60 Hz wall outlet, measuring a sine wave. Close enough. Next the same two meters are measuring a MSW (Modified Sine Wave) from a UPS inverter.
Both meters same point of measurment. Early DMMs with true RMS responding were expensive but today they have come down in price. Very few of the early Analog meters were RMS responding. Anyway just something else to consider. 
Ron
I wanted a full featured dmm with big display and audible continuity test. This one does that and more. Non contact voltage sense and measues caps. It even lights up LED's!
Bought thru Walmart for ~$35. Came with temp probe and test leads. Batteries separate.
That look interesting. I found it on amazon as well.
How do you find the touch screen? the quality of the prob that included?
Not touch screen. Power button on top, select on side, but it'll identify & measure automatically. Leads are normal test leads, supple silicon, red & black.
