DIY 3D printer, your collective thoughts

Projects General Guidance
1

Hi all,

I was wondering if i could make my own 3D printer. Now-a-days you can buy a starter model for about 600 euro but the fun would be in the DIY corner of the project.

Servo controls and programming an (Or multiple) arduino's isn't what i'm pondering about (I can understand those parts), but what about the design software and it's device interface?
Does anyone has experience with a nice (read: free) 3d design software and the interface between the 2?

Perhaps others are thinking about this and would like to brainstorm on this matter?

Thanks!

2

There are multiple sites that are specific to a home built 3-D printer. goggle reprap.

this is not the site for multiple users and in-depth information on specific devices.

3

dave-in-nj:
There are multiple sites that are specific to a home built 3-D printer. goggle reprap.

True,
But if you search on our friend google every site says the same: "Our approach is the best!". Thats why i asked if there are some people here that have experience in this matter.

4

Thats why i asked if there are some people here that have experience in this matter.

You want to know if someone has bought two or more 3D printers and can compare them?

5

C-F-K:
Does anyone has experience with a nice (read: free) 3d design software and the interface between the 2?

I have no experience - though I am slowly trying to build one. The RepRap Forum has a huge amount of info including links to Arduino software and other stuff.

...R

6

I second going to the reprap forum

I built a MendelMax 1.5 kit, and it took weeks of my spare time at weekends and evenings to build it and get it to work.

I'm now building another 3d printer I have designed myself, but its taken 6 months so far

So I would recommend as a beginner, just build a known design, e.g. A Mendel 90 or similar.

You can get all the electronics and motors cost effectively in eBay, search on

REPRAP RAMPS KIT

And you should find all the components

You will need to locally source steel rod and threaded bar. Don't worry if the steel isn't to the exacting tolerances specified on the reprap site, e.g H6 tollerance bar, normal smooth steel or stainless is normally ok

You can get bearings, on eBay as well or aliexpress

7

Try FreeCAD and Slic3r for software. If you're a student you can get good prices on commercial packages; Sketchup or Geomagic Design would be worth a shot there. But personally I think your time would be best invested in FreeCAD.

If you're going to visit a steel store, "Cold Roll" is the term used for the smooth, steel rod you would want, but it would not be appropriate for linear ball bearings. "1045 TGP" is for the high-tolerance dimension stuff.

8

Other free 3D software packages are Blender and if you want to design using programming code, take a look at OpenSCAD and OpenJSCad

But if you've not had experience in cad packages before, programs like Blender and FreeCAD can be quite daunting.

9

I've had a 3D printer for about 8 months now. I use OpenScad to design parts, I export them as STL files, then I use slic3r to slice them for the printer.

For controlling the printer itself, there are lots of Arduino-based solutions available. My Ormerod uses Duet electronics, which are based on the Arduino Due. Personally, I wouldn't use any of the solutions based on less powerful processors. I've forked the firmware, and some of the improvements I have made and want to make need a reasonable amount of processor power.

10

dc42:
some of the improvements I have made and want to make need a reasonable amount of processor power.

Could you give a rough description of the sort of changes you have made/plan to make - not code, just an overview.

Thanks

...R

11

I would recommend creo elements direct modelling express.
Its a professional package Free for limited personal use.

The limitation is 76 parts per project.

I have desinged a cnc miller using it, only exclusions being nuts and bolts bolts etc to stay within limit.

It exports stl files that slicr etc can use.

12

PaulS:

Thats why i asked if there are some people here that have experience in this matter.

You want to know if someone has bought two or more 3D printers and can compare them?

One of the problems with these printers is they often have printed parts which are not quite right.

The maker of the Threedy has specifically adressed this and rigidity problems.
Friend has one and print quality is comparable to the cubex.

It is also able to print ABS reliably.

Some printers are quite good at printing PLA but not ABS.
The Cubex is very good but expensive, not so good for ABS though.

To compare models , generate a file and get test prints done.
Some charge for this though.
Most however will supply test prints of their own on request.

13

Robin2:

dc42:
some of the improvements I have made and want to make need a reasonable amount of processor power.

Could you give a rough description of the sort of changes you have made/plan to make - not code, just an overview.

Thanks

...R

Changes I have already made include improving the web server in the firmware so that it can serve all the files needed by the browser, provide a lot more information, and upload files to the SD card more quickly. Having a web interface is tremendous help.

Changes I plan for the future include adding precompensation for the lag of the extruders behind the movement axes, to get more even prints. The lag is especially significant when using Bowden extruders.

14

dc42:
Changes I have already ....

Thanks - interesting. And exactly the level of detail I wanted.

...R

15

I'm not sure what advantages you get from a Due based system.

I have a Mega2560 based system connected directly to a laptop and have never had any issues even printing complex shapes like bracelets that are full of oval holes etc.

I initially used slic3r and Pronterface (printrun) , but now almost exclusively use CURA to both slice and control the printer.
i also tried KISSSlicer but it would not process some models that openscad generated, as they have minor errors due to bugs in the mesh created in openscad.

I use a 5 year old laptop connected to the mega2560 I.e dedicated to printing, and transfer files to it via wifi, then manually set the print off on the laptop.

I find I have to check the printer is ok, I,e the bed is clean and the extruder is clean before each print, so having a system where the printer has a remote web interface would not be a benefit as I physically have to check the machine.

My mendelmax prints PLA and ABS without any problems, but I do need to recalibrate the bed height when switching plastics, as I print onto kapton for pla and direct into glass for abs, using slurry.
Actually, I rough up the Kapton with a pan scourer as its too slippery initially.

I agree that a lot of printers have issues.

The mendelmax 1.5 has bed rigidity issues, and getting the frame aligned to less than a degree accuracy is very hard.

Also the Mendel type reprap s that move the bed in the y axis have issues with printing tall thin objects, as the lateral forces produce by the movement of the bed cause them to fall ,over or wobble.

Hence I'm now building another printer that just moves the bed in Z, and the print head moves in x and y, e.g similar to a makerbot, but using 2 lead screws in the z axis, so I don't have issues with tilting of the print bed