I wish to create a locking system for my doors. I may use an Arduino or not. I would want about 3-4 spaced out across the door. I am just thinking of the basic type with a cylindrical shaft, that can be put into a basic loop screwed to the frame of the door.
I could then chain them in parallel, and use a battery pack to open them, for example a pack of 8 AA batteries, if the voltage is 12 volts DC. I am a little worried about the amount of current drawn from that small battery pack (even though it would be brief).
I would probably want spring loaded types, so that they are normally-out. This would mean that you pull them back by applying the voltage. This would mean applying the voltage to close the door, and open it.
Main concerns are:
That they could be too flimsy.
The price range of more solid, robust types.
They draw too much current.
If something goes wrong I may lock myself out.
How to hide the terminals, which would need me to drill a hole through the door, and place the terminals somewhere they can be utilized.
Note that the solenoids would be on the side of the door opposite to where I am when locked. This means that the only thing visible is the terminals.
The door is actually an internal one. It is a room where I have valuables. It is usually open for the most part. For the other side of the door that could get quite awkward, I confess, for manual override. It could be quite difficult to explain, because it is a main room, and needs access.
Do you have suggestions for some kind of manual override for all the solenoids. I am thinking hard about that concept, because it could be a problem. Like I said, it could be awkward trying to explain where the door is, and what room it pertains to.
Then you must have already installed a steel door and steel frame. Otherwise putting locks on an interior wood door and frame is a joke.
But that aside, are you thinking of adding locks outside of a door frame? Will you attach them with wood screws to the frame or to the door? Locks go in the door, not the frame.
Can you show a drawing of exactly what you are planning?
Is this due to it being too easy to force the door open? I already have another lock in place, one that needs to be pulled out with a magnet. I intend to have more but the first one seems to be quite difficult to get through, due to the amount of steel rod present internally.
Do you mean in regard to a sustained amount of force a burglar may use to force it open? I was hoping that with the extra locks in place it would increase the amount of time it takes for them to access the room. I may introduce other locks with it as well.
It is getting more awkward now due to it being a rented apartment. At some point my apartment-owners will get annoyed at too much modification to the apartment. I am there for the long-stay so maybe they will be more lenient, but I don’t know.
Multiple locks do not stop a break in artist. A rescue saw easiy purchased at local tool suppliers battery operated will cut the door out in a few minutes.
You also have violations of fire and safety. Your life is worth more than the goodies. Depending on the size of what you want to protect, a gun safe of the size needed is your best bet. These are normally fastened to the wall and floor with big lag bolts that are only accessible from inside the safe, so they are not attackable. The holes are easily repaired if you move out. Put your money in a good security system that uses batteries and a cell phone connection, and/or is hard-wired in inaccessible races so it can not be externally disabled. Contract with an armed security company with a contract for a maximum response time, and if they fail, the penalty is equal to your loss.
Do NOT think you can prevent loss, think of minimizing loss either with a system similar to what I just outlined, or like the banks use with dye and or smoke/fog to slow them down while security comes to stop them.
When I have worked with electric door locks I generally used an electric door strike plate. The link is for Amazon examples but a simple Google of electric door strike plates will yield more. They come in a variety of voltages including 12 VDC which is nice for battery backup solutions. Strike plates like this are commonplace with cipher lock solutions.
You can do electric door strikes, as suggested by Ron-Blain, or go with electric door latches/bolts. These are all different things and all have pros and cons.
Regardless, you can get them with keyed override features.
Long haul or not, if I owned the apartment, I would NOT allow modifications to my equipment without permission. You might be entering a whole world of access code, electrical code, fire and alarm code, insurance issues, etc…
As a side note, these types of locks are either fail safe or fail secure. What this refers to is what the state is with no power applied. If no power is supplied and it unlocks the door it is fail safe. If no power is supplied and it locks the door it is fail secure. Think about what happens if the electric goes out for whatever reason.
If it calls for 3-4 on one door, it seems as if security is a priority. Why cheap out?
Get them with key overrides.
This is done with a special jig, a long drill bit, and using special hinges called transfer hinges (or a wire loop). DON’T make your own transfer hinges. You can damage the wiring and set the place on fire.
I used to work for an access control company. A fail secure system is almost never a legal option, due to fire regulations.
I knew of only one exception to this, when a Nigerian prison requested fall secure system. We had to inform them that this system would render them liable to a corprat manslaughter charge if the worse happened.
It's curious why you want to make an internal door more secure.
I was once asked by a neighbour to add extra locks to a bedroom door.
It turned out that prior to his daughters wedding, a lot of jewellery was going to be stored there and he didn't trust the other members of the family.
If it's for personal protection like a safe room, that's a different proposition. With many internal walls being built as stud walls with studs and plasterboard, doors offer next to no protection.
As others have said, you can fit all the locks you like, but nothing short of tank armour will stop a determined attack.
In the UK, the police who want to make a rapid entry, to say, a suspected drug dealer or cannabis factory, will use The Big Red Key enforcer or an adapted petrol disc cutter
If it's an external threat, then you need to concentrate on the main entry doors and windows, and always consider you might need to get out fast. Never use main locks that need a key on the inside.
In the UK, where forced entry into a property for theft, may or may not get police interest, a minimum requirement for external doors would be be a British Standard Kite marked lock that might get you some sympathy and a crime number.
For valuables in my own house, I use some pretty hard to find voids and they are alarmed.
I concur. Where I am, the Authority Having Jurisdiction (the county, city, owner, etc…) can in some cases approve installations that are not up to code. But there better be good reasoning behind it.
If you are securing an area that has easy access to mains power, there is probably rarely a reason to use fail secure. Though fail safe will typically be required to have battery backup where I live. So a homeowner or renter may not like the extra cost incurred. Homeowners can basically do whatever they want to their home, but there is a huge amount of liability.
The original poster seems to have disappeared. Do you think OP has locked his/her self in the closet?