Hey guys,
I just watched a YouTube video about etching my own PCB and I'd like to give it a try. Can anyone recommend what exactly and where to buy? And what about novice-friendly software for designing a layout?
Thanks!
- Bob
You need copper clad boards, etchant, some trays, and some way of getting a circuit design onto the board.
You can draw it by hand with a permanent marker, use stencils, toner transfer, photo resist... the choice is yours.
I have a tutorial for the toner transfer method I wrote a while back:
http://hacking.majenko.co.uk/toner-transfer-etching-part-1-designing-the-circuit
Will you be using the toner transfer or the photographic method?
See:
http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html
http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=835
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=177629.0
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=253310.new#new
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/109
Great! Thanks guys, I'll check out the links.
Hi Mithra,
Some years ago me and a friend used to make our PCB's the photographic way, always good results, but a bit long winded. Now I use Diptrace a super Schematic and PCB cad program and FREE, (Eagle's a pain in the ****, and I don't find it very intuitive, or even helpful). Print the PCB graphics on a laser printer, using GLOSSY paper, cut to PCB size and IRON it on to the copper side of the board.
The heat remelts the TONER (fine plastic dust!) on to the copper, etch it, remove the toner with solvent, drill board, etc. You can find it on the net, but I wouldn't work any other way now. Paper sticking to the board can be a problem, just give it a good soak in hot water.
Hope it helps.
Regards
Mel.
Toner transfer works good for large traces and such but for small lines and details or for double sided boards I like to use pre-sensitized PCBs and the photo method. And use HCL (hydrochloric acid) and hydrogen peroxide (1 part to 2-3parts) to etch it. With a little practice they come out really nice.
I made a few homemade boards a long-long time ago. Personally, I don't ever plan on doing it again. 
One of the nice things about the Arduino is that it comes on a PC board, so you don't have to make one for your microcontroller circuit (although you may need an additional board for your other circuitry).
I usually use breadboards in my permanent designs, or other techniques to avoid making PCBs. I've got permanent-breadboard projects that I built about 20 years ago, and they are still working reliably. One of them is an automotive project and the vibration hasn't caused any problems. The downside to a breadboard is the larger size, and you need an adapter board if you want to use surface-mount components.
If I need a PCB, I plan on using one of the online services where you send them files and they ship you the boards. When I was in college, the electronics lab would make PC boards for a very reasonable fee if we supplied the artwork. That was cool and I've never made a PCB at home since then.
I have all the etching kit here. I can't remember the last time I used it 
The online services are so cheap now that its worth the wait of delivery from China. I'd only home etch now if I needed a board yesterday.
Could you post a couple of the PCB services you use. Thanks
Hi drksam,
I make boards with 15 tho' width tracks, even necking them down to 12 tho' when passing between IC pins, etc. Just make sure everything is clean and use a good hot iron or laminator. The worst problem I have is removing all the paper fibre afterwards, But I'm looking at using some type of OHP foil or vinyl.
Regards
Mel.
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html
I sent them my files. look at the 5x5 and 10x10
sent a note back that I had traces going nowhere and holes with nothing connected.
I found my software ( winQcad ) did not like me doing a copy and paste of folders and files.
made my corrections and send the files back. someone actually did a visual check of the layout and saved my butt.
I would not go anywhere else after that experience.
I have nested a couple extra boards, on the space allowed. have a long and skinny voltage regulator, led boards, that sort of thing. so I get my main board, then if needed and there is room, add a second board in the space left over.
if you use the whole 5cmx5cm or 10x10cm then that is what you get. I have an enclosure that is smaller than 10x10 and when I got that back, they cut the board to the outline of my part, 82.5 x 90 and saved me from having to cut the PCB down. they will not cut it into 2 for you if you put on two circuits.
I hear you about eagle, beast to learn. winQcad offered me G-code output for CNC so I went with that. but there are things that are much easier to use these days. fitzrig may offer board service and an easy interface.
I use iTead all the time, and not just for prototyping, but for production runs too. Sometimes the ident layer on their boards is a bit ropey, but it's adequate considering the low cost.
you can get the etchant at radioshack if they still carry it.
the laser toner is pretty good, just set the iron on the hottest you can make it and heat the board up till the paper starts to brown.
I make a sandwich and tape it all together.
use a sharpie to fill in any bad traces. you can tap the sharpie, not drag, it will leave more ink that way. and keep the cap on ! a sharpie will dry out in an hour with the cap off.
the problem i found was getting 2 sided to line up. and then drilling all the holes for a long DIP chip. I bought a machined pin DIP carrier,and drilled out the holes with a tiny drill. to drill, I would put in the two opposite corners, then use pins to hold the chip carrier in place and then just drill through the holes.
that was before getting the CNC mill.
now I have the CNC mill, AND a T-TECH 5,000 pcb table. getting the T-TECH ready for sale. with the cost of boards from iTread, etched, drilled, silk screened, I will never make boards again.
@ Cactusface
I have done several with toner transfer and have considered a laminator but wasn't sure how what would do. My biggest problem with it was getting it to all stay lined up on double sided boards. And that my laser printer doesn't really do a very thick print. Intrested in hearing how the OHP foil or vinyl goes?
@dave-in-nj
nice thanks
majenko:
I use iTead all the time, and not just for prototyping, but for production runs too. Sometimes the ident layer on their boards is a bit ropey, but it's adequate considering the low cost.
have you every used their assembly ? I was looking for 1,000 boards, but so far the couple places I found wanted me to send them the chips. seems silly to buy resistors from china, then send them to china....
drksam:
. My biggest problem with it was getting it to all stay lined up on double sided boards. And that my laser printer doesn't really do a very thick print.
I start by putting a pin hole in the corner where you will put in a large hole to mount to a box. then lay the two printed sheets on each other on the window to line them up. tape them.
place the board over them and poke them with the pin.
separate them and use the pin to line up the holes. after a few times, you get the hang of it. the key is to buy those tiny drills.
here is a absolute requirement. get a drill press, even it if is a dremel version or a Horror Fright (less than $75 ) and get reading glasses and a bright light.
those carbide drill bits for PCB's are fragile and break when the dog next door barks. drop one and it breaks on the way down to the carpet and then shatters even more when it hits. with a drill press you can drill 1,000 holes. by hand, you will only break a few to get the first hole, after you get the hang of hand drilling, you often can get a whole 8 pin dip with one bit before breaking it.
besides, it is a great excuse...er.... reason to get a drill press.
dave-in-nj:
majenko:
I use iTead all the time, and not just for prototyping, but for production runs too. Sometimes the ident layer on their boards is a bit ropey, but it's adequate considering the low cost.have you every used their assembly ? I was looking for 1,000 boards, but so far the couple places I found wanted me to send them the chips. seems silly to buy resistors from china, then send them to china....
Not yet, no. Most places I have looked at so far have had a stock of basic components (resistors, MLCCs, etc) which they prefer you to use, but yes, anything more complex than that would need to be sent to them. Most will allow you to order components from a supplier and have them sent direct to them, which is more efficient than bouncing them around the globe.
No offence to the Chinese as a people, but would I trust them to source my microchips for me? Really?
majenko:
dave-in-nj:
majenko:
I use iTead all the time, and not just for prototyping, but for production runs too. Sometimes the ident layer on their boards is a bit ropey, but it's adequate considering the low cost.have you every used their assembly ? I was looking for 1,000 boards, but so far the couple places I found wanted me to send them the chips. seems silly to buy resistors from china, then send them to china....
Not yet, no. Most places I have looked at so far have had a stock of basic components (resistors, MLCCs, etc) which they prefer you to use, but yes, anything more complex than that would need to be sent to them. Most will allow you to order components from a supplier and have them sent direct to them, which is more efficient than bouncing them around the globe.
No offence to the Chinese as a people, but would I trust them to source my microchips for me? Really?
I totally understand about the IC, but you have to admit buying an IC from china has the exact silk screen you expect.
I would be happy to send over a lot of Atmel chips. but, I was expected that any assembly house would have sources for all the resistors and caps and such that are common. the crystal is a iddy-biddy widdle fello.... shipping of a few thousand of those would not use up a first class stamp. I am not set up to do the tiny smd parts. it is actually kinds scarry that the crystal is smaller than the smd LED. and that I have a trace between pads.....
@dave -in-nj
Yes for sure gotta have the drill press for just about quality precision work on the PCBs. I did find that the regular wire bits (the really cheep ones) work for a couple of hundred holes and cost almost nothing. And I will give the corner hole a try.
my first box of the cheap bits, I broke the front row just opening the box.
have broken every one I dropped and a few just by touching.
once you have it in the machine and use it straight up and down, you get lots and lots of holes. even with a cheap drill press.