I need help! I had an Arduino Nano Every. I also wanted to compare it with a Nano (clone). To solder the Nano (clone) headers, I placed headers on breadboard where my nano every also was placed
I dropped a blob of solder on my Nano Every over the the region marked with Yellow in the above image and SAMD chip and 3.3V regulator.
What exactly is the component marked in yellow and how do I test if its still functional?
How do I test if SAMD chip is soldered on the board firmly and is working fine?
Now the BIGGEST problem, in an effort to clean the mess I made, I accidently touched my Soldering Iron over the region in Red. The component there was desoldered and stuck to my soldering iron so badly, I couln't get it off! So I need to replace it! What was it (I am guessing a resistor? What was its exact value and exact tolerance and exact size? Where in India I can buy its replacement? Please Help me!
Also My Nano Every differs with the online images a lil bit, including the component I desoldered. Does that mean I have a counterfiet?
No offense here but if you couldn't solder the headers without removing a component, then you don't have a fine enough soldering iron to replace those parts once you have them.
Your best bet is to find a friend who has the equipment to solder in those small parts.
As for counterfeit board, don't know from your description but I would say likely.
Arduino usually have a logo that is missing on a clone.
Boards: Genuine = Board mfg by Arduino (or their official mfg)
Counterfeit = board that is identical to the Genuine including board marking etc. I've seen many (or maybe not seen any of these)
Clone = A functionally equivalent to the Genuine but often has slightly different layout. Usually physically interchangeable with the Genuine. Sometimes a different USB chip is used requiring a different windows driver.
It is a capacitor (C6). Murata GRM155R61E105KA12D
The Digikey part number is 490-10017-1-ND:
The official board design file does not match your board perfectly, but the component in that location on the design file is R5, Yageo RC0402FR-074K7L
The Digikey part number is 311-4.7KLRCT-ND:
I think it will be easy to find this part. You don't need to get the exact replacement. Just make sure to find a resistor of the same size and resistance and you'll be fine. It is a very common and cheap part that any major electronics supplier should have in stock.
Keep in mind, these parts are 1.5 mm X 0.5 mm (looking at the board). You should have a soldering iron tip no wider than 0.5 mm (or maybe a little bigger if you are good at soldering).
I clean my boards with a brush and isopropyl alcohol. I brush then blot with a paper towel, Repeat 3 or 4 times. You need to blot with the towel else the flux that went into solution will dry back on the board.
will this work as a for a replacement of R5? Do I have to keep in mind the quality and the actual error/tolerance? I dont think so, because it is apparently just a pull up resistors.
My iron has a fine tip, but idk why, it got very messy, maybe my solder is bad quality. I will look for a high quality replacement! That said, as @JohnRob suggested I will try to use a Hot Air Gun.
Thanks everybody for replies.
About the counterfeit, The box was proper, and sealed, everything is good and proper, just the actual schematics are a little different! Is it possible for it to be a genuine one? Because I checked the official files too given by @in0 and the schematics is definitely different. Can Arduino change the schematics without changing the version and announcing it online?
I think it's definitely possible. The counterfeits I saw didn't go to the trouble of counterfeiting a box. Copying the PCB itself doesn't hardly require any effort at all because it's only the decision of whether to put the logos on the silkscreen or not, but a box is a whole project in itself.
That said, there certainly are other products where the counterfeiters went to the extra trouble to do the packaging as well.
The only thing approaching a knock off Every I'm aware of is that there is a board advertised as "Nano Every" on eBay and/or Aliexpress, which actually uses the ATmega4808 instead of ATmega4809. It's not really a counterfeit though and you would definitely know if you had gotten one of those because of the different microcontroller.
Yes. Hardware designs often evolve over time, and there have been other instances of forgetting to update the design files on the website.
I did a quick look at my collection of Everys, which were purchased on two different occasions from the Arduino Store a year apart, and the hardware design looks the same as in the design files. However, the silkscreen on mine matches the style in your picture where it says "ARDUINO.CC" on one edge of the board and "NANO EVERY" on the other edge of the board, whereas the product photo only has the "ARDUINO.CC". So don't take that particular difference in the silkscreen to be a cause for concern.
Considering Arduino Nano Every is a cheaper board, definitely I paid for Genuine. Plus, the website claims that its original.
Thank you everyone for your help.
I was able to fix the board and it worked perfectly. I was able to do it with my Soldering Iron itself.
Soldering 0402 size as the first SMD component was so satisfying although it sounded like a nightmare. With a few tutorials video and tweezers, I easily managed it.
