I'm basically done with this circuit except the powering of it all. I need to power the circuit with some kind of batteries and connect it in someway without anything breaking, all of which I don't know yet. Any help will be appreciated, thanks.
What is used (what needs to be powered):
Arduino Uno Rev3 + Motor shield Rev3 (5v)
DC motor (12v, 726 mA)
Micro Servo (4.8-6v, ~200 mA)
ESP-8622 (3.3v, 70 mA)
Please let me know if I should power something like the motor individually.
And Also, it would be great with rechargeable batteries.
Shouldn't i just be able to plug a battery in the motor shield then?
here:
I basically know zero about electronics and voltage, but you're saying that i only need 12v because that the highest voltage in the system?
You can run the ESP-8622 from the 3V3 on the Uno.
I'd have suggested using a 12V servo, but they mostly seem to be 6V.
So 2 * 4 packs of AA cells will give you +12V and +6V approx.
You need 12V for your 12V motor. The Uno has an on-board regulator to make 5V from the 12V for itself.
But there could be a problem. Your servo is connected to the OUT6 header, which gets it's 5V power from the Uno's 5V regulator. This could cause that regulator to overheat and be damaged, because of its high input voltage (12V) and because the WiFi module is powered from the Uno's 3.3V regulator, which gets it's power from the 5V regulator also.
Can you get a replacement 12V servo? Then you could power that directly from your battery
Whatever power the servo needs, about the same amount of power will be wasted as heat by the regulator.
If you can't find a 12V servo, try a "buck" regulator/DC-DC converter. Set the converter for 6V output and use that to power your servo directly. This type of regulator is more efficient and wastes only 10~15% of the power as heat.
No. If you post a link to a buck converter, I can tell you if it's suitable or notm
No. The breadboard seems pointless in your circuit. You could have used it for the signal level converter (assuming that's what it is) and for the ESP-01 (with a suitable adapter) but you have not used it for those components, so it has almost no purpose.
Couldn't find the exact buck regulator on cirkit so is used another one that does the same. The D7 pin is set to HIGH for the EN on the regulator. Tell me if this would work, thanks.