Help pcb design

Dears,

since i,m new in pcb designing ,i have make a schematic using easyeda (that was easy) but making the pcb is a nightmare,15 days trying i was able to make 70% and now im stuck,the auto router do not help.

kindly if any one can help?

Board size should not exceed 100x150mm.

Thanks

zip remake.zip (44.2 KB)

I use Eagle for PCB work, sorry I can't help. Where did you ge the easyeda software?

Easyeda is well known online software it's free,i use client,i can make schematic with eagle .

“auto router“

Never use.

Show a screen capture.

I’m also newbie with pcb’s and started with Eagle, easy to manage and I was able to finish my pcb project in few hours, there are tutorials that help and learning curve is not so hard. It is also free if your board is limited to 2 layers and less than 80cm2.

But now trying with KiCAD, also free and open source so no limitations. It as a mature solution with a lot of libraries, by default I’ve found footprints for all Arduino shields, including the Due I’m working now.A lot of tutorials also and helpful tools.

Both applications are similar to me but decided finally for KiCAD because no limitations. Anyway all Arduino schematics and files provided in this site are for Eagle.

Regards,
Joan

auto-route is awful. When I bought the real version of eagle, even if the autorouter was $5 more (it was several hundred), it would have been overpriced.

A while back, when this was new and fancy and expensive (probably 15-20 years ago), the company my father worked at used an autorouter (supplied by the manufacturer) for this like 16 layer gigantic PCB. The autorouter routed traces outside the board area. The boards were trash. I think they eventually got the manufacturer to do the respin for free - it was a very expensive PCB, obviously. Nobody was happy. At least eagle’s autorouter just fails to route (even very easy) boards.

Yeah, I rarely use the AutoRouter. I used to use Eagle CAD, but the interface is weird, and after not using it for about a year, coming back to it I had to relearn the thing. Now I use DipTrace, which is FAR more intuitive! I was able to pick it up without touching a manual.

The couple of times I did use an AutoRouter, it was after routing all the power and ground, and all of the main signal lines [i.e. MPU I/O and such]. I let the AutoRouter attach all the little short runs [e.g. resistors to transistor terminals; diode across relay coil; bypass caps; etc. I also once used it to handle some remaining long runs that were going to be a pain. It did most of them, but gave up before finishing the last few. And I don't know why -- I was able to easily find routes, though they were fairly convoluted.

But, as larryd suggested, we really can't even begin to offer suggestions without getting a look at what you've done so far.

well,i have take your advice in considiration and here is my first resul,soany suggestion is welcome,

for the via diameters is 2.1mm cause i will use a mini cnc for encraving this pcb.

thanks.

PCB_NEW-PCB3_20190120002244.pdf (39.4 KB)

pcb V3.zip (54.4 KB)

Use a ground plane.

Fouad19764:
i will use a mini cnc for encraving this pcb.

Why not just pay someplace like dirtypcbs or pcbway to make them for you? They're really cheap, and you get double layer board, with solder mask, plated through holes, HASL (or ENIG for a few bucks extra) surface treatment...
It is also MUCH easier to route a double layer board than a single layer one.

Vs a board engraved at home on a CNC machine with untreated exposed copper everywhere (this is prone to corrosion), no solder mask, single sided (or if doublesided, no plated through holes), larger minimum feature size, and you have to spend time babysitting your CNC machine (feeding it each new bare board, at the minimum).

Do you need it to be single-sided?

Yes single sided please.

KiCAD works great for designing boards, very easy.

Why single sided? Especially in small runs the same cost as double sided. USD 5 for 10 boards up to 100x100 mm is a normal price. That gives you silk screen, solder mask, proper protection, plated through holes - the full Monty. Worth the ~2 week wait to me to get the boards.

Without the schematic, still can't help much.

  • You could turn U4 90° CW and open pins U4-10 to U4-14 up a bit.
  • If the "Temp Sensor" can be moved to the right of EN1, "U3-D6" would have some room, if that's an issue.
  • U3-D0, U3-D1 and U3-Reset are caged, but I don't see a destination for these pins. But, if one or more of them need to get somewhere, then you might need to use jumpers.
  • And, any other boxed in pins might be solved by jumpers
  • Then there's out-of-the-box things like flipping U3 to the back of the board in hopes that will make routing work out better. Or, U2 on the back and under U3, such things as that!

Other than that, like others have suggested, a double-sided PCB house board, with tighter spacing tolerances is probably the only answer.

Power traces should be widened.

Add decoupling near regulator.

Add I.C. decoupling.

You can always have SMDs on the foil side of a single sided board.

Where are the standoff mounting holes.

If we see relays, place LEDs and kickback diodes across coils. (edit: looks like ULN2003 has them already)

Accommodate a screw hole for the regulator.

‘Nothing’ wrong with having jumpers.

LED1 is backwards.

2019-01-20_16-15-51.jpg

Good point on the decoupling caps. Not sure how I missed that - the board design as posted will not work, as it omits the necessary decoupling caps. Vcc to Ground next to every power pin on every digital IC, traces kept as short as possible (between the Vcc pin of chip and cap, and between Gnd pin and cap). I have had problems when I had an inch between the decoupling caps and power pin. Without decoupling caps, microcontrollers may reset or hang in response to changing load (for example, turning on an LED with a microcontroller I/O pin, or writing to the flash) and are more sensitive to external interference.

And the regulator needs caps as specified in the datasheet (note: regulators are often very picky about their caps. Some need ceramic or tants only, some need electrolytic, some just spec the ESR which in turn dictates what kind of caps you can use), otherwise it's not going to behave as a regulator, but an unstable oscillator.

And yes, this makes routing it on a single-sided board really hard. That (along with how cheap it is to get boards fabbed) is why we all use double-sided PCBs!

As an aside, where the heck do you get 10 pcs 100mm x 100mm for $5? My board house charges $17 for that!

$5 for 10 pieces 10cm x 10xcm is very cheap.
Iteadstudio charges $19.90 for that - double sided, green solder mask, stencil both sides, HASL, various thicknesses, 1 oz copper, 100% e-test.

www.pcbway looks to be charging just $5 for the same, plus $23 DHL shipping to the US.
Can't be making much profit on that!

SeeedStudio/Fusion PCB is another $5 for 10 boards [size limited to 10cm x 10cm] venue. I've used them for years with no complaints. And they have made good on their mandate to improve their turn-around time. VERY fast!

I usually select DHL for shipping [more expensive], when I want the board(s) faster. And I tend to work on several projects at once and then order 3 or 4 PCBs at a time. The shipping cost barely increases, so the total cost goes down. I say 3 or 4, because, sometimes the 4th [or 5th] PCB will bump the shipping cost up considerable [haven't figured out the "algorithm"], so some "experimentation" is wise. The "cheap" shipping is slower, but if you don't need your boards right away, you can save a buck.

Good point on the decoupling caps. Not sure how I missed that - the board design as posted will not work, as it omits the necessary decoupling caps.

Huh? It uses a Nano - the decoupling caps are built-in. I'm not sure that the ULN needs decoupling - it lacks the internal circuitry that causes high-current pulses. Though I guess decoupling the power near the relays is still a good idea. I'm not sure what the 8pin chip is...
Single-Sided boards are something that the autorouter does an especially poor job with, and they require some special attention. I usually start by running a "sensible" power grid - typically GND around the edges and VCC through the middle...
As someone said, the occasional jumper can be better than a meandering trace.
This looks planned for mechanical CNC "etching"? Otherwise your traces and pads are quite huge.

I usually select DHL for shipping [more expensive], when I want the board(s) faster. And I tend to work on several projects at once and then order 3 or 4 PCBs at a time.

All that's a bit academic if you need two or three copies of ONE board, and some in-house service will do them in less than 24h. (although, $30 for 3 boards, including shipping, throw-out the 7 you don't need - is still a really good deal.)
It's a bit hard to tell how much of your current layout is "required" by mechanical considerations. I'd be inclined to move some things around in an attempt to get better routing...

SeeeedStudio it is for me, too. USD 4.9 for ten PCBs. Even if you need only three it's good to have some spares - for if you make a mistake in assembly, or if you need an extra copy after all, or even if you just want to test out a different part.