I mis-spelled "Some"... spelling "so"... I fixed it.
WS2812.
But... the breadboard still lacks power (for the WS2812).
I mis-spelled "Some"... spelling "so"... I fixed it.
WS2812.
But... the breadboard still lacks power (for the WS2812).
Youve asked a question without giving us any information on which to base an answer.
and what you have given us is wrong.
What we need to know:
A data sheet for the exact LED you are using - which ISNT an ordinary LED.
Well, in your photo there is only one wire going to the "red" line on the breadboard. See post 4, 7, 10 etc. The plastic breadboard doesnt supply 5V.
We're just getting frustrated you are ignoring or not understanding the answers you are being given.
However, on a completely different point its HIGHLY unlikely that the Nano will provide enough CURRENT to drive that particular LED. You need one like this, or likely a special driver circuit and power supply to use the one in your picture
Well if you are not providing power to the LED, and people repeatedly try to tell you, we can not help you.
If it's a WS2812b (the b is actually always there) then they require 5v. There are many variants of these addressable LEDs from WorldSemi, but they all have a specific number. The WS2811 is a lose chip and can be used in a 5v and a 12v configuration, but the LEDs with internal circuitry are either 5v or 12v and the datasheet will tell you which it is.
If it's just 1 LED, maximum current draw will be 60mA (or actually 36mA for the more recent WS2812b LEDs) and the USB's 5v will suffice.
Main thing though. The LED needs 5v+ on the Vcc and GND to GND, and the data line logic level will need to be increased to 5v. The simplest way to do this is by using a 74HCT14 or 74HCT04, powered with 5v and run the signal through 2 of it's ports.
Thank you this makes sense! I tried this and still didn't work, but I saw your other comment about soldering- Here's the backend on the LED pin:
I've done around 10 variations of this where I did have that VBUS Red wire, but was also told these LED pins are really fragile and I could burn them out. So I've been spinning out between suggestions prior on power source vs the ability for testing just one LED with direct USB current. I've changed my set up based on everything you just said and if it still doesn't work, do you believe I'm just smoking out the LED from incorrect soldering technique?
Thank you! Yeah I'm fine with figuring out a power source, I'm just confused why a few people I've talked to said it was possible to draw enough for one LED test because based on the amount of variations I've done on this, that meant I was smoking out my LEDs with bad soldering. If the soldering is fine, then I do need a power source ![]()
No. They are not that fragile.
I am puzzled by the arrows on the PCB, usually these point in the direction signal flow.
You did get some output initially though so i guess Din & Dout are the correct marking.
I stripped a USBC charger to try the second power source and still nothing ![]()
with one of those two WS2812 in the picture,
If that doesn't work, add in your USB charger as follows. Instead of red wire to Arduino, connect the red wire to the +5V output of the USB charger, and connect the negative side of the charger to Arduino GND as well.
That should be all that's required, if you do exactly as I've said. Run your code, and see if it works. If not, take another clear photo of your setup and post it here, along with your current version of your code.
No. I donât.
Testing 1 LED is the correct first path. VUSB can provide 500mA and one WS2812b LED needs 60mA. So itâs ok.
If one LED is not working, other things might be investigated. On the pic you posted in post #1, the red wire seems to be poorly connected to the breadboard:
If youâre going to cascade those LEDs, the first one receives de data wire on Din. Then, its Dout must be connected to Din of the next LED and so on. If you connect Din to Din (as itâs apparently done in the post #24 pic, they wonât work.