Found my solution!
Update: check here for a more optimized method; Share tips you have come across - #1019 by GigaNerdTheReckoning
I had a few "blade connectors" which I never ended up using. They were meant for thicker gauge wire, but as you can see, they also have a way of working with smaller wires
You simply strip around 40mm of the thin gauge wire and wrap the wire backwards over the insulation. Then you get some good quality crimping pliers (I used Irwin) and crimp the connecter over the wire and the insulation. As you can see, I had to crimp twice, to get the cylinder to overlap.
I've never had very consistent results with crimpers, but this feels like a very strong and reliable connection!
And because there's no solder, it might be suitable for automotive and marine applications.
I also tried soldering the wire to the connector...Adding in heat shrink tubing gives it some strain relief. Definitely prefer the crimping though;
As another commenter pointed out, you can also just insert male jumper wires into the terminal block.
However, the flat blade connectors can clamp a lot easier and tighter into the particular terminal blocks I'm showing. I'm using a terminal block that clamps onto a flat surface, specifically this version;
The male dupont connector bends when I place it in that specific terminal block, but the blade connector does not bend.
I believe that the male dupont connector is better suited for a terminal block with a round bottom (it doesn't bend as much), like this one;
the blade connector also connects well into these push terminal blocks...
also made a ring connector using the same method...
