I would like to use arduino to control the household fan speed which runs on 230V A.C. ...
How will I control the fan speed from the PWM outputs of the arduino board..??
What components should I use to fire a triac for the regulation..??
What type of motor does the fan have ?
If its a single phase induction motor which many fans are , you cant easily vary the speed.
Yes its a single PHASE ceiling fan...
After some search I found that some people use MOC3011 with an optocupler..
here is a circuit which I found..
Lot inexpensive possible solutions on ebay.
those are ready to use modules..
I know about them..
But I would like to control it with arduino for other reasons..... You can say a kind of home automation..
I've never made a motor speed control, but I've made light dimmers (not with the Arduino), and from your schematic, the concept looks basically the same...
You can't use PWM, but it's something like PWM synchronized to the 50/60Hz line frequency. You only need a modified top part of the schematic (including both opto-isolators) and the Arduino would replace the CD4xx parts, etc.
It works like this - You detect a point along the "phase" of the AC signal (usually near the zero-crossing). That's the full-wave rectifier, the FET B2, and an opto-isolator, with the current-limited AC driving the opto input.
The opto-isolators keep the high voltage away from you and the low-voltage control circuitry (i.e the Arduino). If you are building your own power supply, you can use the isolated transformer secondary to get the timing/phase and eliminate one of the opto-isolators.
That isolated detected phase/timing signal goes to an Arduino input.
An Arduino output drives the other opto-isolator, which drives the TRIAC (A1).
After being triggered by the phase/timing signal, there is a delay (i.e. 0-10mS @ 50Hz). Then a short pulse into the output opto-isolator (IC1) "fires" the TRIAC somewhere along the AC half-cycle. (The pulse has to be "short" because it cannot extend into the next AC half-cycle).
Once triggered, TRIACs always stay-on 'till the current falls to zero (the next AC zero-crossing).
Other thoughts:
The actual zero-crossing is difficult to detect, and the peak is difficult too... So it's generally best to find a point somewhere in the middle (around 45 degrees). With a microcontroller, it's easy to compensate since you know the line frequency.
Also with a microcontroller, you don't need full-wave rectification. When you find one zero-crossing point (or trigger point) there is another one 180 degrees later (10 mS later at 50Hz).
You'll probably have to experiment with the timing/delay to get it to work right near zero-speed and near full-speed.
What if I do this..??
I found another circuit where they are doing it in this way..
Another similar circuit here
Joy:
What if I do this..??
That circuit is for on/off
I found another circuit where they are doing it in this way..Another similar circuit here
That's for "random fire". OK1 is your zero-cross detector. OK2 is the triac driver, but for your motor (Inductive load!) you need to add a snubber across the power triac and a snubber on the triac driver output, too. See "page 5 of 9" >>>>> http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/277835FSC.pdf
I was wondering whether this project came off the ground.. I have a similar demand, I want to control a house /kitchen fan (with inductive loads) with a triac kind of dimmer setup. I am looking for a heads up whether this would work on such ac electromotors.. If they perform steady etc.
thanks!
Did you find a solution to this?
I have a ceiling fan which is being controlled by arduino and 5V relay.
What changes do i need to do to control the speed of 220V fan.
Joy:
those are ready to use modules..I know about them..
But I would like to control it with arduino for other reasons..... You can say a kind of home automation..
Hello Joy, in this link you can find information about the hardware and the software to do phase control (in this example this is used to dimm an AC bulb with TRIAC, but may work for a fan too). http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-controlled-light-dimmer-The-circuit/?lang=es
Anyway, you should research a little bit about zero crossing detection and ac phase control.
Driving a resistive load (a bulb) is a little bit different from driving an inductive load (a motor). For resistive load the firing angle of the TRIAC may change between 0 and 180°, but for inductive load it changes between 90° and 180°.
hi i want to ask i made the arduino triac control i made same dia and same code on instructable but 1 thing i am facing is my moc3021 receiving pulse to turn it on and also gate pulses are present at triac and also A1 and A2 of triac have 220v ac but my load is not turning on i m unable to do it the series of load and 220v ac is correct my 4n25 is working fine but why my lamp is not turning on i made whole system on bread board please tell me 
how to control single phase ac fan using arduino,
any body have circuit diagram and sample code pls post if u have.
Joy:
I would like to use arduino to control the household fan speed which runs on 230V A.C. ...How will I control the fan speed from the PWM outputs of the arduino board..??
What components should I use to fire a triac for the regulation..??
Here (Automotive, IoT & Industrial Solutions | NXP Semiconductors),
in my opinion, is best described in the single-phase motor controller. In the description of the controller can change at your own Arduino model. You can control it with adjustable resistance, rotary encoder, or with buttons up / down. You only need to be programmed so that the Arduino generate 16kHz PWM. The controller is running smoothly, the engine does not emit a noise as controlled with a triac. All of the details (without Arduino) cost about $ 30.
how to control single phase ac fan using arduino,
any body have circuit diagram and sample code pls post if u have.
ATmega328 based remote controlled AC FAN circuit
Note-the PCB is only $1. If it were me I would order the PCB , the Triac, and the remote. I have everything else.
That top schematic is wired incorrectly. Note where the optoisolator is connected to the triac versus where it is connected in the other two circuits.
The drawings are different because the pin # location is swapped. Electrically it looks like it's wired the same. Also, of the three drawings, the first uses the MOC3011, the second uses the MOC3031,
and the third uses the MOC3020. Go figure.
BTW,
I found a SNUBBER circuit.
If I draw the arrow on the wrong lead of a BJT but label C, B, and E correctly, the schematic is still incorrect. And misleading.
If I draw the arrow on the wrong lead of a BJT but label C, B, and E correctly, the schematic is still incorrect. And misleading.
I can't argue that. An incorrect schematic is an incorrect schematic. Correct pin numbers do not make up for a mistake in the drawing, they just confuse the issue.
There are schematics in Reply#2, #6, & #7
Just to confirm, the schematic drawn incorrectly is the one with the MOC3011 or the one with the MOC3020 ??
This one:
It is partly correct in that the optoisolator needs to go from G to MT2, but it is drawn as if it were connected to MT1. It is also missing a pull-down resistor from G to MT1.
It could be argued that it was drawn in this annoyingly, different-for-no-reason symbol:
But in that case, it was drawn upside down, further muddling understanding. And one of the very important aspects of a schematic is to make things more clear. Or we'd just use Fritzing pictorials. 