Glad the info has some use to you.
I would expect the 4th wire to be connected to a hall-effect sensor. Though, there are many, many RC enthusiasts that have disected the motors and discussed driving them ad-nauseum. You should be able to find some info written by a clever individual.
The thing with cd-rom motors is that they (if I remember correctly) can draw as much as 30W - yes! that is in standard, not re-wound configuration.
I would measure the resistance in the motors coils - using the lowest value you can obtain as the figure used to calculate power-draw. This will be an over-simplification - one that assumes power is connected through a coil 100% of the time and (2) that the motor is a pure resistive load - it fails to take account of the inductive nature of the windings, and the effect on instantaneous and average power consumption.
I realize money doesn't grow on trees, really I do! This is (very nearly) the cheapest ESC hobbyking has. You can buy ESCs for 50c cheaper, but they are 8-10Amps, this one will handle 15-18A. You may be able to buy one including delivery cheaper from DX.com AlliExpress or Ebay, I don't know.
AUD $6.50 - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6456__Hobbyking_SS_Series_15_18A_ESC.html
I do know I've shared the same interest and aim in the past, having put it off for another 10 years or so. Instead, using commercially available speed controllers and motors.
Rewinding a cd-rom motor is a pretty trivial task, provided you have wire of the suitable thickness and keep your wits about you. Doing this would allow you to know with certainty if the motor was delta or wye terminated. It would also remove the ambiguity that the 4th wire provides.
Oh, and to answer your question regarding the sata power converter and a 1.3 - 12v wall-wart, this may work, but you also might make the magic smoke come out! I've had a 15A short-circuit through motors before. By the time I get there the varnish on the windings has long since turned to smoke and the motor is too hot to touch. There was probably 150W or so heating the motor. The ESC didn't even get hot enough to melt the heat-shrink. I've since rewound the motor (twice!) and used+crashed it many, many times. ESCs aren't dirt-cheap or free - they are surprisingly resilient in fault-conditions. For me, the price was far, far, far outweighed by the potential for damage to other equipment
Sorry I can't help further. :.