I completed my first project at prototype level. Is a controller for a DC water pump that feeds cattle.
Now I must realize the working controller.
I have read many shield articles, but I do not get a clear picture at the moment.
I see two options: 1. use a custom PCB to place the few external components, and solder with short wires to the Arduino; or 2. use a blank shield instead.
In both cases I need to solder 8 wires from the PCB or shield to the female connectors in the Arduino.
At prototype level this is easily done with the plugin system, but that is not soldered.
How can I realize that ?
Remove the plastic part of the Arduino headers and then solder the wires ?
HARRIS46:
I see two options: 1. use a custom PCB to place the few external components, and solder with short wires to the Arduino; or 2. use a blank shield instead.
In both cases I need to solder 8 wires from the PCB or shield to the female connectors in the Arduino.
At prototype level this is easily done with the plugin system, but that is not soldered.
How can I realize that ?
Remove the plastic part of the Arduino headers and then solder the wires ?
What you want to do, or need to know, is far from clear, but one thing is pretty certain - you should not have to remove any plastic from anything. The best approach might be to solder the headers into a prototyping shiels, assemble what you need thereon, and plug that into Arduino, but maybe that is what you refer to as plugin system, in which case I wonder where your problem lies. Arduinos are the base of a system that is made for stacking shields, either store-bought or home-brewed (with solder connections). There are even hybrid ones that have some components on board and include a space for prototyping.
What I want to make sure is that the electric contact between my components and the Arduino is soldered and not just plugged. I understand the stacking principle, but in my case, the controller will work in hard temperature and humidity conditions.
Then Uno was not a good choice. It is designed to have shields attached by plugging in.
You could swap to Nano, or Pro Mini. These are much better boards, both for breadboard prototyping (because, unlike Uno, they can plug directly into the breadboard) and for final circuit construction using stripboard or purpose-designed PCB.
So you have a little more breadboard prototyping to do. Get a Nano/Pro Mini, plug that into your breadboard (you may need to buy a second, identical breadboard, and clip them together), upload your sketch (probably no changes to be made) and re-test. Then you can build a more permanent circuit on stripboard.
What I want to make sure is that the electric contact between my components and the Arduino is soldered and not just plugged. I understand the stacking principle, but in my case, the controller will work in hard temperature and humidity conditions.
Commercial products use connectors for exactly the reason you don't want to use them. All soldered wires are subject to breaking at the point of soldering. Especially if you use lead-free solder.
You need to use connectors that are designed for your application, not the other way around. There are thousands of connector designs to pick from.
the cost of a custom PCB is very low. for a beginner, the first might not work properly, so you get a second.
and then the old saying.. Third time is the Charm.
but, I do not have a grasp of your project. 'controller' does not clarify.
are you using a level sensor in a water trough
determining the level
then turning on a pump to fill the tank ?
sensor + Arduino + relay = controller ?
I like the NANO on a screw terminal boar
the screw terminal relay board
and then solder wires to the sensor and use the screw terminals.
HARRIS46:
What I want to make sure is that the electric contact between my components and the Arduino is soldered and not just plugged. I understand the stacking principle, but in my case, the controller will work in hard temperature and humidity conditions.
OK. If that is what you want, there is a swag of options. There are several Arduinos that don't work wth the shield system, but have standard pin spacing instead, and a variety of good proto boards on eBay.
Pic below takes NodeMCU and a Pro Mini - with soldered peripherals(!)
