HX711 soldering for 80 Hz

Hi guys!

I’m new to the Arduino scene, and I’m trying to create a load cell pedal for my racing simulator. I’ve got an Arduino Pro Micro (this) with this HX711 + Load Cell combo.

With help I’ve managed to hook the thing together and now it’s reading out the values from the load cell but only at 11 SPS according to the serial monitor.

From what I’ve learned online (I found this datasheet) what I need to do is remove the RATE pin (pin 15) and connect it to VCC and that will switch the module to 80 SPS mode. (according to the attached picture, whole thread: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=226314.15)

The only problem is because I just started, I’m really bad at soldering (plus I don’t have the precision tool) I’m almost 100% confident I can’t lift the pin out.

So my question is can I just solder the 16 and 15 pin together (at the points circled in red in the attached picture), since the 16th is the digital power pin.

Thanks a lot in advance!


NO! None of the above until you determine what else is connected to that pin. Either follow the traces on the circuit board from pin 15 and draw the connections on paper or, find a schematic and determine what else is connected.

Of course, if you have several of those boards, go ahead.

If your soldering skills are poor, how are you unsoldering skills?


The ali schematic shows that pin 15 is connected directly to ground. So if you solder it directly to pin 16 without disconnecting it from ground, you will short your power supply. That would not be a Good Thing.

However, the ali schematic and photo may not match what you have in your hands, so the advice to follow the traces on the board and draw the connections on paper is good advice.

Also, these boards sometimes have a simple means to change the sampling rate - either jumpers (two solder pads close together) that you can connect with a blob of solder, or a trace between two pads that you can cut. Look for those, too...

Thanks guys for the reply, in the meantime I've checked and that pin in indeed connected to GND, so I'll try to somehow break it's connection or lift the pin out.

The usual way is to make two adjacent cuts on a trace and remove the tiny bit of trace between the cuts.


While you've got the soldering out, check to see (by multimeter) if Agnd is connected to supply gnd, I've had cheap boards like those pictured that have not connected -Ex/Agnd to gnd, whereas similar boards with a groundplane do.