Ideal 3.7v battery charged module for use with Arduino

Hello.

I plan to power my Arduino with this 10,000 mAh battery > 5v voltage regulator.

My question is regarding a good charger for the battery. This charger module is very common, but it is 1A, that is, it takes 10 hours to fully charge the battery. Is there a more efficient way to charge it without burning it? I'm looking for a 2A or 3A, but I can't find it.

Look at this one, I don't know if it's a charger, to be honest: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Módulo-cargador-HiLetgo-unidades-DC-DC/dp/B01HXU1C6U/

... or this: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/batería-cargador-tablero-Booster-alimentación/dp/B094TYZYN1/

First of all, you have to look at your battery specs, and figure out what the charging cycle should be before feeding it with more than 1A

It does not say how much it supports loading and unloading.

I'm looking at this other one: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Batería-repuesto-celdas-conectores-MTA-100/dp/B08D12D9D3/

But, it doesn't have a BMS, or anything, it's a straight stack from what I can see. It says that it supports a maximum load of 5A.

LiPo batteries must be handled with care when charged and when stored. I would not tamper with them. I have charged 18650's with TP4056, but higher-capacity batteries may need a professional battery charger, such as this

A MAX1811 (Maxim Integrated) is good enough.
I used TP4056 before HOWEVER because it is by a small company in Shenzhen China I don't ... trust them, say.

Which itself is basically a "simplified" version of LTC4056 from Linear
https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/405642f.pdf

Look at this battery:

It is 72Wh. It is enough for me. It's not LIPO, it's lithium ion, safer. 6A, 12V.

It has its charger from 12V to 1A. That is, it takes only 6 hours charging. It's perfect for me.

It has 5v 2A and 12V 3A output.

What do you think? Do you see any errors?

LiPo stand for "Lithium Polymer". Which is basically the same as Li-ion (Lithium-ion), except it's a bit different.
They are almost equally dangerous. Li-ion do have higher internal resistance which means that accidentally shorting the battery will be less "terrifying" than Li-Po. That said, because Li-Po have lower internal resistance they can drive high-power loads better.

How many cell does it use internally? Does it balance charge itself? Does it tie the cell together (like a dum-dum)?

Yes, but you need a USB to Dupont "cable"?

I don't trust this. It will probably work, but especially if you have $100 (per pack) batteries you will want a better charger.

I used to run iSDTs (from Shenzhen). They are pretty good, albeit a bit more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/ISDT-Q6-Lite-200W-Charger/dp/B07D5N27Z2/
Kept using them even after I dismantled my drone. Extremely accurate measurements and help me recondition my family's Dyson V7 battery pack

Ah. Price have dropped. Good stuff.

The "key difference" is that this iSDT is a pulse charger, and therefore can measure battery internal resistances (per cell, which can tell you about the health of batteries)

If you don't have a DC power supply, you can get the 608AC with a built-in power brick

Honestly, I don't know exactly, do you mean internal batteries by cells? I am seeing in the image that it has 6 batteries.

Yes, I need a 5V cable to power my Arduino, and another 12V cable to power my DC device. But, that is not a problem.

But, as I told you before... the pack comes with the battery, the cables and the power supply:

I honestly think that it is ideal for me. Do you see any problem?

It's a "3S2P" (3 series x 2 parallel) arrangement and the black (circular) PCB in the middle in fact do take balancing. The red PCB is responsible for voltage shifting.

It's probably going to do decent, but will be massive overkill for simple projects that otherwise only need 1 cell

It is a wearable, I want to have a lot of autonomy. A full day away from home.

I'll try it and let you know. Although, maybe he will follow your advice and look for a cheaper solution with less energy, maybe half of what it offers.

I plan to turn on my device 1 time every 5 minutes. That is, in 1 hour I will turn it on 10 times = 10 minutes, right?

That is, if my device consumes 10Wh, if I turn it on for 10 minutes in an hour, it would consume only 1Wh, right? Correct me if I'm wrong in the calculations, please, I'm not an expert.

Like you said, it's overkill for small projects.


If I use 10 or 20 Wh batteries they would be perfect to last a full day of use.

The negative side of using a powerbank (for me, and now) is that it already has a voltage regulator and I won't have the freedom to only use what I need. That is why it is better to use only the batteries.

What do you think about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/AKZYTUE-6500mAh-Battery-Rechargeable-Connector/dp/B07TXHX3QT/
3.7v, 6Ah = 22.2Wh.

If I use a charger like this, it would only take 6 hours to fully charge, which is acceptable.
https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-Charging-Protection-Functions/dp/B07MDPLQ18/

And this regulator from 3.7 to 12V and 5V:
https://www.amazon.com/Eiechip-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-Module/dp/B07RNBJK5F/

Do you think it can help me? Do you see any error?

Well, 10 minute is 1/6 of a hour, so it will consume 1/6 * 10 W = ..... 1.2 or 1.3something Wh.
Close.

Even this I will regard as overkill.
I have a Arduino Leonardo with a OLED screen and I use a 450mAh (3.7V) battery with it, so maybe 1.2Wh. Thing last for at least 6 hours of run time per charge (and it's easy because I have a on-board charger module so I just need to feed it power via barrel jack or plug in USB)
you can check it out here
For practicality I recommend between a 500mA (or a 400) to a 2000mA. Unless you have high-power electronics (e,g. servos, motors) but then, you should have your case-specific power-pack batteries.
If I am to re-design something (e.g. my Xpandshield) to be more unified or maybe a rechargeable night lamp or something, I will use either 18350 (a.k.a. 16340, CR123A), 18650, or 26650 rounded Li-ion rechargeable batteries (with holders), so I can swap them out if I needed to. If aesthetics and glue-less mounting doesn't matter those soft-pack with some wires sticking out are perfect to kickstart whatever you are working on.
Also, NEVER, NEVER put batteries in parallel yourself. Try to avoid using parallel packs or using packs in parallel.

Correct me if I'm wrong (I just want to double check):

Let's say that all my components consume a total of 7.7Wh. But I'll only have them on for 10 minutes.

1/6*7.7 = 1.3

I mean, actually my components are going to consume 1.3 W in total, right?

If my battery is 24Wh then I will have it on for 18 hours (24/1.3).

I do have engines, but like I told you, I won't have them running all the time, just a few minutes.

Give me your advice please. These: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Atnsinc-01/dp/B07YRHX73L/

Do I need the larger pack lithium-ion batteries or can I use the smaller yellow lipo ones (in this case 6500mA 3.7v)?

Thanks for the tip, it did cross my mind to do it myself. But, I get your point, it's better to buy a factory battery pack.

Hmmmm ....
You definitely don't need a power pack like this Turnigy 2s pack, but don't think ...

You will be fine. Just add a capacitor or something across the battery terminal to smooth out the eddy current created by the motors (at least by a bit).

You can recycle good Li-ion cells from laptop power packs if one of the other cells have, well, died. I have recycled 3 different Macbook packs and got 6 excellent Li-Hv power cells. Not as powerful as a RC-grade pack, but not half bad, either.
Because laptops have some decently high power usage (e.g, 50W), the cells used in them are .. well, better, than those sold on amazon. But don't ... get out of your way to specifically look for old packs to disassemble. Only do that if you, well, think it's worth saving the few buck.

Thank you very much for your detailed answer. I like to learn and that you add more information makes me happy.

But another question arose.

Those batteries that you showed are 2.2A at 7.4v, that is, they have 16.28Wh.

... and the one I showed 6A at 3.7v, they have 22.2Wh.

What is the difference between one and the other? Both are from Lipo. The one I showed has 1 cell and the one you showed has 2 (obviously), but why would I choose one and not the other?

The difference is the balance between internal resistance and capacity.
Internal resistance is the difficulty for the charge/electrons (inside the battery) to get out of the battery, and capacity is the amount of charge/electron the battery hold.

My theory (and is probably true) is that for high-performance batteries the leads/sheets inside must be thick to

  1. allow charge to flow through without overheating and
  2. decrease resistance, which increase current and voltage for the load.

Of course, if you increase the thickness of the conductors/sheets, you decrease the surface area for charge to cling on to. Thus high performance batteries (e.g., that RC car battery) have a lower density compared to ordinary, medium batteries found in laptops and phones and low power batteries found in, say, wireless mouse or alarm clocks.

But in exchange they have a better discharge curve and perform better under high-load environments.

Which, due to their low internal resistance, is also more dangerous if you accidentally shorted one out as hundreds of amps can flow through.

They are also typically non-protected because the total resistance must be as low as possible for minimum heat and max power (to the RC car motors). Some of which can go as fast as 60Km/h and pop wheelies.

The battery you chose is non-branded -- it probably will do the trick, especially since it have high capacity which means it's less likely to be stressed even the output is relatively high (e.g. 2A), but don't expect it to drive anything more powerful, especially if you use more powerful motors.

But quality batteries are quite difficult to come by, so if you have laptop battery pack with identified "broken" cells you can re-use the cells that are still good, since laptop are power hungry (45W) and the cells must be good enough to meet the performance ratings.

And, obviously, they can also tweak the chemistry slightly to affect characteristics. The famous "LG Chem", for example, is a good "breed" of power cells for Dysons and other stuff, but are somewhat low density compared to some Panasonic stuff.