Hi I’m not sure where to ask this but does anyone know how I can buy an already made one or a version that a beginner can tackle and make them self’s?
Here is the animation effects I wanted but this version is not for a beginner and it’s £450 worrh of parts.
This one looks easier bur could do with more of the less but I don’t want all the added effects such as the motion and voice I just want the animations.
The ball has 16 "ribs" of 16 WS2812 each rib.
Here is a simulation of the same thing in 2D form (free).
Find a person who makes their own delicate jewelry... they will know the right heat to use and you will learn a valuable skill.
Here's Jiri Praus' HOLLOW sphere (very nice work):
Thank you, that video you shown I already have all the kit to make that one including the 3d printed template but I need a bigger easier version rather then what he does which individually soldiers each led to a copper ring.
Anyway of powering these via a cable and plug rather then a battery to get more juice out of it? I’m making a floor lamp and for the diy kit I got I have a massive psu which I don’t think will look good on the floor next to a floor lamp lol.
Thank you
I use a 5vdc or a 12vdc "laptop" power supply for Arduino projects that will not be moving. I also use the "USB power cube" that seems to be in every junkdrawer. Verify that your power connections are good so your project gets good power.
Jiri Prause does very nice, simple (but very small and hard to work with) projects. I made a few simple shapes with LEDs. They will test your soldering skills because wire likes to take the heat away quickly.
https://blog.adafruit.com/2017/12/05/turn-an-unused-usb-cable-into-a-5v-power-cable/
Thanks again so a 12v laptop charger is sufficient enough to run 96-192 LEDs at full power would you say?
Match the power supply to the addressable LED strand. Some are 5vdc, some 12vdc, some 24vdc, and I have seen 40vdc (commercial level).
Each "pixel" of the WS2812 contains three LEDs. Each LED at full-bright (255) should be estimated at drawing 20mA, so 60mA/pixel maximum. 100 pixels = 6A (6000 mA), and 200 pixels = 12A.
Also, each pixel draws the voltage down, so after 50 or 100, you need to "inject power"... which is to say, run a Ground wire and a Vcc wire from the power supply to the pixel string GND/VCC pads.
This drawing and guide might help. Ask anything if you have questions.
Thanks again, can I ask do you actually need a arduino board when using something like the esp32 d1 mini for example if you ain’t going to be using things like sound and motion gimmicks? All I’ll be using is just some animation sequences that looks like it comes standard with the wled app.
No Arduino needed.
All the WLED projects I have seen use the ESP32. It has more memory than an Uno or Nano.
The most difficult part of WS2812 projects is soldering. Get a fine tip iron with adjustable heat and use plenty of liquid flux. CLEAN as you finish soldering with isopropyl alcohol and a small, stiff brush. Use a small, quiet fan to blow the smoke away. I "hate" lead-free solder... I can not use it properly.
If you use strips of WS2812 LEDs, the solder pads are delicate because the material under the pads is flexible. Too much heat or too much strain on a pad, and it will lift off the backing. Try to plan your work to limit flexing (twisting, bending, etc.)
If you make a clock using a bicycle wheel, I have found the best rim-pixel-fit is a 27"x1-1/4" rim circumference (old, US standard) with a 5mm (thick) rim strip and 30 pixel per meter strand. The spacing fits (60 WS2812 LEDs) to within 10 mm of the last LED spacing. The 700 rim circumference is 10 LEDs too small.
Writing the patterns is the best part, but WLED has so many to choose from, you never need to write code.
Have fun!
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