Mosfet Module Woes

Look at the MOSFET data sheet, it should not work in your application. You may get some action but it is not reliable. It starts to turn on at 4V, not 3.5. It is an avalanche rated MOSFET so for on/off applications a flyback diode is not needed. Your sketch leaves a lot of information up for guessing so I am assuming you are using it as a low side switch.

Since you did not let us know the manufacturer I chose one I am familiar with, Vishay, and used there data sheet, it is here: https://www.vishay.com/docs/91017/irf520.pdf

Happy to I'll repost this picture two which hopefully helps with the descriptions
(V+) -> breadboard (diode, solenoid+)
(V-) -> breadboard (diode, solenoid-)
VIN -> 12V power +
GN -> 12V gnd

pins
SIG -> arduino 3
gnd -> arduino gnd

lmk if there was something else you were looking for

Sorry I think I dont understand or have been unclear.
I am not using the 3.3V pin to power the module - when I power from the arduino I use the 5V pin. As per @jim-p 's suggestion I dont usually add the 5V because it seems to be able to draw power from the 12V supply.
Yea the sketch is a bit rough what other information can I add to help make this more clear?

The diode has a band or stripe on one end (cathode, negative end) that should be connected to the solenoid + (positive terminal). Is that how you have it?

I believe so I have V+ leading to the stipe side then on to the positive solenoid so full connection looks like
(V+) -> breadboard (diode (stripe), solenoid+)

If you take the SIG wire off of pin 3 and touch it to Arduino 5V pin, does the sol work?

not if the diode is connected if the diode is connected theres nothing I can do to turn the solenoid on (in terms of changing the input to the signal pin, 5V and ground behave the same)
if the diode is not connected then yes, but i have the reverse issue, there is nothing o can do to turn the solenoid off

Time for another clear photo. Did you say you had a DMM?

That I do not have what would you suggest I use it for if I grab one?

To measure voltage from MOSFET source to drain, source to gate + a plethora of fun things, including your own resistance. :grin:

At any rate, try some other modules if they have survived kickback without diodes, you may have a more sensitive one that might work. Still waiting on hookup picture.

yea sorry unable to send a picture of the setup atm - will do when I can. Also I've been hammering away at this trying to get it to work for my solenoid, realized I never asked the question - is this thing right to be controlling a solenoid? Is there some other device I should be using? I've tried relays before but was hoping to learn a new tool

Not needed, but wise to add.
Avalanche voltage of an IRL520 could be about 120-140volt.
You don't want that near sensistive electronics if you can avoid it.
Leo..

Polulu has a range of MOSFET "power switches" which I think are a good deal:

https://www.pololu.com/product/2810
https://www.pololu.com/search?query=power+switch&x=0&y=0
Or:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10213
OR:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/355

The unknowing get suckered into buying these all the time.
They have IRF510's, stuff like that - unsuitable.

The voltage in the coil reverses when the solenoid is turned off. It will be limited to a few tenths of a volt at the MOSFET, generally much lower then the forward drop of a diode. The flyback is limited by the external circuit. If there is no resistance it could go to several hundred volts.

Providing the FET ever turns on (or "on enough") - which seems unlikely.

The main reason for avoiding the breadboard for higher current applications is that it may add a bit too much resistance and cause overheating. I doubt if that is the problem here, just a general suggestion.

I really encourage you to pick up a DMM and learn to use some of the basic functions. Even the cheap ones are good enough for getting a good start on troubleshooting. And most will have a trace connection setting which is so useful for looking for unexpected breaks in tracks or for stuff wired up incorrectly!

The motor turning on regardless of signal input is odd too, and a DMM will really help see what exact voltage is present on the driver V+ pin.

Either the module is BAD or the diode is BAD. Are you sure it is a 1N4007

yea the kit I have labels it as a "diode rectifier (1N007)" also I see those numbers on the diode itself - full label is "1N007 MIC". I suppose I could be misreading 1's as I's but I'm not sure thats a part to begin with and it would be madness for them to mix those in as well