PCB Design Review

Schematic_Steamer-v2_2025-03-15.pdf (110.9 KB)

Hi all,
I am previously hired professional for PCB design. However, with time and a little bit of learning from past experiences, I decided to design myself this time.

I am attaching the PCB Schematic, for anyone's kind review and feedback. I have used screw terminals for every external connection as stated below.

VIN is a voltage input of 24V from a Meanwell brand SMPS
T1 and T2 are screw terminals connectors for K type thermocouple
LIM1 is used for a mechanical limit switch
LED1 and LED2 are two indicators
OUT1, OUT2 and OUT3 are three outputs to run solid-state relays
Buzz is used to run 5V Buzzer
U3 is used to read output from a pressure transducer 5V
U8 is used to read Inductive proximity sensor DC 6-36v

My area of concern is the output readings from the pressure transducer, whether the same would be stable or not. My previous version had fluctuating readings from the pressure transducer.

Any input or guidance will be highly appreciated.

Thank you.

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If you were to design it under free pcb software say from JLCPCB or PCBWAY, they have their own checks and balances dependant on your initial design parameters.

Thanks for your response.
I am using easyeda from jlcpcb for designing. Can you please guide how to do these checks, or any tutorial you can refer to?

You might just look for the DRC (Design Rule Check) buttons in EsayEDA

I am not familiar with 7-segment numeric LED display, so I have not looked at that.

Mostly nit-picking.

  • NET: PS I cannot see a pull-up/-down resistor, that might be needed, depends on the Nano

  • LIM1 / R2 what is the purpose? Current limitation? I would probably at least put a pull-up/-down resistor in the schematic. Maybe leave it out of BOM to keep it unpopulated. So that it may be fixed if there is a need later.

  • SSR (solid state relay) OUTputs: What kind of relay are you driving? SSR Max Input Current? I would guess the Nano outputs are not enough to drive the SSR. Is this tested? Even if the max ratings are fine, you might have some inrush. I suggest adding a Darlington array, for instance ULN2003A.

  • U3 NET: INP (for pressure) I would probably add a smoothing capacitor, like 100nF, to GND, depends on the sensor really.

  • U8 (inductive proximity sensor) depends on the sensor, but it seems to me you will fry the LED in PC817X3

  • 24V input protection (untested) but I would probably trying something like this:


    input protection.txt (792 Bytes)
    It blocks reverse polarity but have very little voltage drop when correct polarity is given.

Hi,
@sidbij schematic;

Tom.... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

If you post the datasheet for this transducer, maybe someone can suggest the proper interface circuit.

You have overly used Net Ports to the extent that it's difficult for someone else to follow your schematic.

I am listing down all external components to be used.

Hi @wittrup
Thank you for your effort, and for sharing your inputs.

Schematic_Steamer_2025-03-17.pdf (100.3 KB)
This is my old schematic which worked just fine. I previously had 3 SSRs connected to the PCB, and the Arduino nano was able to handle the load just fine.

As per your suggestions, I have added a capacitor for U3 (Pressure transducer).

U8 (inductive proximity sensor) - I bought a PC817 module and connected it inline with the old PCB and it worked just fine.
https://robu.in/product/pc817-2-ch-optocoupler-isolation-module/

And your last point, the protection of 24V smps supply. Do we really need it? I am using a branded SMPS.

Reading your two last replies.
Sounds like you have good control :saluting_face:
Like I wrote, mostly nitpicking.

Even with the relatively moderate currents used by the Nano and multiplexed LED display, this may be a lot of power dissipation in the regulator (perhaps (24-5)*0.1 = 1.9W) to expect the M version (not particularly heat-sinkable) to deal with.

You have wrongly changed the configuration of that 10kΩ Resistor R2 in the limit switch circuit.
Previously it was a pullup to the 5V supply, now it is just in series with the input.

Your wiring of the inductive proximity sensor is incorrect.
You do not have a GND connection going to the sensor.
The LED in the opto-isolator needs to have a resistor in series with it to limit the current.

It is probably not even necessary to have an opto-isolator. The output of the inductive proximity sensor is likely to be an open collector NPN transistor.
This is not clear from the seller's website.
You need to do a test to find out whether it is.

If it is open collector then you can connect it's output directly to the Arduino input, with a pullup resistor to 5V.

Apart from what has already been mentioned, I'd have grounded the emitter of the optocoupler instead of the collector and used an external pullup resistor on the load pin of the MAX7219.

Hey @6v6gt @westfw @JohnLincoln

Duly noted your concerns. I have replaced the Voltage Regulator with a buck converter.
Source: LM2596 5V Buck Converter SMD - Platform for creating and sharing projects - OSHWLab

Schematic_Steamer-v2_2025-03-17.pdf (113.2 KB)

Added resisters in the opto-isolator circuit. The opto-isolator is necessary, I tried using a resister to read output from the proximity sensor. It didn't work for me.

I apologise if I didn't follow 100%, or made any mistakes. Can you guys please review it once again?

Regarding the opto-coupler, look at the lower picture for the connections to the built in transistor and led:

Your design looks well-structured! For stabilizing the pressure transducer readings, consider adding a low-pass filter or a decoupling capacitor to smooth out fluctuations.

Hi,
post#13 schematic

Tom.... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

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Hi, @6v6gt

I hate PCB diagrams, needs to be proper connected wiring, not search-a-word.

Tom.... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

but you say

My area of concern is the output readings from the pressure transducer, whether the same would be stable or not. My previous version had fluctuating readings from the pressure transducer.

So is there a problem or not?
If not then what kind of help are you looking for?

Hi @TomGeorge @6v6gt

Schematic_Steamer-v2_2025-03-17.pdf (113.4 KB)

Is this new schematic fine? I still haven't been able to completely understand the schematic behind the opto isolator. Will continue to study.

Thank you tons, my friends.

Hi,
post#19 schematic.

You can Export PNG files that display in a post.

Tom.... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia: