Hi guys,
I just wanted to ask you if it does matter when I first etch the PCB and then drill holes, or can I first drill holes and then do the etching stuff
It's easier if you etch first. That way, the "doughnut hole" in the pad helps to guide the drill.
Most professionally manufactured boards have plated-through holes, so I assume the drilling is done first, then all of the chemical operations (etching, plating, and plating-thru) can be done. If there is routing, that would be done after etching, since multiple boards are usually etched on large panels.
(I haven't made a board in a long time, and I don't plan on doing it again. Most of my projects are built with plug-in breadboards, and I've used a variety of other techniques to avoid making a board. If I need a custom board, I'm going to have it made.)
DVDdoug:
(I haven't made a board in a long time, and I don't plan on doing it again. )
It's hard to justify these days with all the online, small-quantity board-making services.
Thanks guys,
that information helped me 
I will preprint a pattern onto a paper, then drill and then draw the lines on the board.
This is my first board, and I'm gonna drill 90 holes into it by hand. I think this is my first and last 
Wasn't the suggestion just the opposite? Etch first, then drill holes? That will certianly help with alignment, can use a little center punch to dimple the centers before you start drilling.
Use a carbide bit to drill. Regular drills will dull after only a few holes through fiberglass board.
If you have the option for OPEN HOLES in you PCB program, select 100%
Hi Batee,
Yes I'm still in to making PCB's, I now use the Toner method with a Laser printer, as stated by others yes do the etching first, then use the holes as a target for your drill. As Crossroads suggest I use an auto centre-punch to mark and give me a start for drilling (I make the hole smaller (and the pad larger) in my CAD software). What software are you using? I find Diptrace very good and it's FREE with no ties and up to 500 holes, need more help or info, SHOUT! Most Arduino stuff seems to be done on Eagle but I hate it, it's so user unfriendly!!
Regards
Mel.
I agree with Cactusface in that I found Eagle very non-intuitive, but got going very quickly with Diptrace. The prices for commercial versions are comparable. Eagle files can be loaded into Diptrace.
Designspark PCB is free for all uses. I've installed but not used it yet. I have not looked yet to see if you can import Eagle files into it.
Sounds like the OP plans to hand draw.... sure hope he looks into some of the available tools.
BTW: another reason to drill after etching is to avoid under-cutting in the etch process, fairly important in designs with small traces (like routing lines between pin pads for dips and such.
Thanks guys for opinions,
I did not use any software for it, just similar thing to autocad it was wery painful to get it done but everything is prepared.
Thanks for the software suggestions, next time I'm not gonna do it all by hand.
As I said this is my first board, I'm just gonna drill the holes first and then draw the lines with a cd marker. I hope I can start making it tomorrow. I hope those undercuts wont be a big problem
When you want to drill holes in a fresh PCB you could take a perfboard and fix it on top of your PCB for properly positioning the holes every 2.54mm. Otherwise you won't be able to insert ICs in the finished board. Then drill all your holes and afterwords take a acid-resistive pen and draw your connections and pads.
Elektrix
I'd definitely etch first unless you've a really steady drill hand
I'd also recommend getting a drill stand, more accurate and less likely to break the drill bits.
DVDdoug:
Most professionally manufactured boards have plated-through holes, so I assume the drilling is done first, then all of the chemical operations (etching, plating, and plating-thru) can be done.
I found this a while back, quite a thorough (32mins) walk-through of a professional PCB manufacturing process.
Use a carbide bit to drill. Regular drills will dull after only a few holes through fiberglass board.
I actually use steel drill bits. I've used carbide before and they keep breaking. I'm using them wrong probably.
Carbide is very brittle, a drill press or dremel stand is a must.
One of the guys on Homebrew_PCBs (a Yahoogroup I run) has a drill press made upside-down. The bit comes up from the bottom. He has a LASER crosshair that shines down from above.
Yea... carbide, I think, is a little more expensive too: meant for industry.
I can't afford that stuff, so I stick with steel drill bits. I bought 24 1/32 " drill bits for $5 on ebay, and they drill right on the spot!
Sometimes when I hand draw my PCBs, I do not have donut holes, so the drill will move off center when drilling. These steel drill bits do not deviate from the center as much as the drill bits they give you with the dremel when you buy it. 
Think and Tinker sells used, resharpened carbide bits. Also check eBay. Heck, Harbor Freight sometimes has used, resharpened carbide bits in a box of random sizes.
Hi Polymorph,
I have a friend who uses a router mounted upsidedown, he then presses on the table pushing the PCB down on to the drill, he has a magnifying glass with cross hairs on it, to target the pad holes, I've used it, works very well, but I use a Dremel.. sometimes freehand with HSS drills, but Tungston are too brittle....
Regards
Mel.
I may suggest you to etch first because it will help you aligment and then drill holes.