Hi,
I don't know if I'm in the correct area for this topic, so tell me if I'm wrong.
I'm currently working on a school project with an Arduino Uno Rev 3. I would like to plug my Arduino board on a pcb using board-to-board connectors.
Can anyone tell me if there are existing footprint files with the correct dimensions? I found Arduino Uno's board size (attached to this post), but it seems a bit hard to make it by myself with the proper dimensions.
ps: I'm working with PADS layout, by Mentor graphics.
I can tell you where to go for Eagle libraries, but not PADS. It's not hard to make your own. It's built on a 0.1 inch grid, except for one of the connectors which is 0.05 inches off the grid.
I never heard of PADS before... Footprints for Uno are available for other programs. Like for KiCad: Kicad (what I use). Think they're available for Eagle as well. But I never heard of anybody that uses PADS...
But the footprint is pretty simple. And if you don't want to make a footprint you can just use 2x 8-pin header and 2x 6-pin header (normal 100mil pitch) and just place them in the right location on your PCB.
What's the source of that drawing? At least one of the measurements looks to be incorrect - 48.8 mm from the rightmost pin in the upper left connector to the left edge of the board. I mark it at 40.6, relative to the other measurements of the board.
MorganS:
I can tell you where to go for Eagle libraries, but not PADS. It's not hard to make your own. It's built on a 0.1 inch grid, except for one of the connectors which is 0.05 inches off the grid.
No, its 0.04 inches off the grid. Or 0.06 depending on which way you look
INSAstudent:
I'm currently working on a school project with an Arduino Uno Rev 3. I would like to plug my Arduino board on a pcb using board-to-board connectors.
Maybe you want a board that plugs onto the Arduino.
Google "Arduino proto board".
Leo..
The attached drawing is not an UNO R3. (Not the latest version, at least). The headers at the top-left and bottom-left are both two pins longer on a 2015/2016 R3.
All dimensions on that drawing are in mm (wrong).
The Eagle files from the products page seem to be in mils.
The smaller parts are on a 5mil grid. 20 mil for the headers.
Get the free version of eagle, load the Uno files from the products page, delete all parts you don't want on your board, add your own parts/vias, done.
Leo..
INSAstudent:
I'm currently working on a school project with an Arduino Uno Rev 3. I would like to plug my Arduino board on a pcb using board-to-board connectors.
You know, the Uno is simply a breakout board for the ATmega328P-PU chip, with some minimal amount of support circuitry like crystal and power supply. Have a look at the schematics for Uno or Pro Mini. Most people who go off in the direction of putting an Arduino onto a circuit board simply include a crystal, resistors, and capacitors on their board and insert a 28-pin DIP socket for the ATmega328P-PU chip. Prototyping the stand alone: Gammon Forum : Electronics : Microprocessors : How to make an Arduino-compatible minimal board
@dmjlambert, with the current prices of Pro Mini's I rather put a Pro Mini onto a board then a bare ATmega. It's cheaper, saves me time and in most cases the PCB can be smaller because the Pro Mini is just stacked on top
Yes, that is a good idea. I suppose with just a couple of dollars involved either way it is a matter of style and preference. But the Pro Mini clones price, board size, and layout can't be beat. I suppose for projects requiring A4 and A5, the layout can be a slightly annoying. I like the looks of Adafruit Metro Mini for embedding, looks beautiful, but the price is higher and I haven't tried one.
dmjlambert:
Yes, that is a good idea. I suppose with just a couple of dollars involved either way it is a matter of style and preference. But the Pro Mini clones price, board size, and layout can't be beat.
After reading the last two posts, I finally got off my behind and ordered some Pro Mini clone boards myself.
They cost me 2c each less than ATMega328P PDIP chips with no bootloader. Quite a bargain, and I don't have to add anything to make them run. (AUD$2.26 for an ATMega328P-PU, AUD$2.24 for a Pro Mini)
I suppose for projects requiring A4 and A5, the layout can be a slightly annoying.
I noticed that the official documentation says 6 analogue inputs, but the pics clearly show A6 and A7 as well, (even if they are awkwardly positioned). That's even better than my UNOs.
[quote author=ArduinoBoardProMini reference]Overview
The Arduino Pro Mini is a microcontroller board based on the ATmega328 (datasheet). It has 14 digital input/output pins (of which 6 can be used as PWM outputs), 6 analog inputs, .....[/quote] Arduino Pro Mini
Using a pro mini plugged onto a mother board is how I make projects now.
If I need more, there are 1284 boards out there too.
Crossroads has a version.
LarryD:
Using a pro mini plugged onto a mother board is how I make projects now.
Yeah, I think I'll be doing it that way from now on too. Then I only need worry about my other hardware and not about the extra micro bits like resonator, reset button etc.
If I need more, there are 1284 boards out there too.
Crossroads has a version.
Unfortunately, I think postage from the US to Oz would kill me with CrossRoads' boards. If I want to use a 1284, I'm probably still better off cost-wise to use a PDIP chip mounted on my own board. Most of my projects are relatively small, though, so I don't usually need the extra flash and RAM.
Thanks for that Larry. They look good.
I'll save all 3 (and the schematic) for reference, but this is the one I'm likely to use. I avoid double-sided boards wherever possible, and always use positive-acting photoresist. (Kinsten pre-sensitized PCB blanks)
